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Old 10-27-2009, 07:54 PM
  #31  
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thats what i do to measure droop by using the calibers
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Old 10-27-2009, 08:38 PM
  #32  
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Lets say I had a really close set-up from some really good eyeballs...OK.I has gotten lots of practice w/ that set-up...OK. Then "Grouchy" does me a favor and sets my car up on his Hudy, and actually puts in positive camber,by mistake of course. Could that make my car feel un-controllable ...especially when I am used to running the peepee out of it???? I am not kidding I thought my vision was off... I thought me equilibrium was off, maybe I was coming down with a brain tumor.... I was completely baffled.I watched him set my car up and I was not going to question the set-up. I blamed it on me and the tires.i am convinced that you can get extremely accurate measurements with the Hudy. i also think that you need to compensate for the difference to get the final degrees of neg.camber to be correct.I appreciate anything that someone does for me.I am always willing to help anyone out.
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:21 AM
  #33  
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Yes that would seriously screw the car up. If I use too little camber my car will flip over in every turn once the dust and marbles are blown off the track. Too much camber and it starts to act funny (makes baloon animals and squirts people with a plastic flower).

Everyone makes mistakes. Got to double check camber at ride ht and cycle the suspension and watch how the camber move when the chassis is moved up and down.

It's also handy to roll the car while in the station to see if you get positive camber on the outside rear as the car leans. I know about how much my car rolls, so I lean it over and watch the gauges.

You can also turn your steering and see your front camber changes and leans into the turn as you steer due to the cars caster and kickup angles.

Still I dont think -1 is enough. Use at least -2.5 in the rear. -3/-4 set at 30mm ht (30mm blocks) should do it. It'll be less at ride ht. Set droop to -2/-3 on the RC8.
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:46 AM
  #34  
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I understand the theory of using the blocks to get a consistant measurement.

But if i want to change my ride height then my camber will change. I dont know if there is an easy way to tell what your camber will be after you remove the blocks so i took the easy step and threw the blocks away.

Ever since i gave them the flick its made setting up my car a breeze
I just set my ride height with the wheels on, put it on the setup station and do the front and rear camber, do the front to and re check the front camber, take it off the setup station, sit it on the wheels and set the droop by the shock length.
I can do both my buggy and truggy in 20 minutes.
so now when i want to change my ride height i just re set my camber at that ride height

The blocks always confused me and everyone else i know. i dont know anyone who uses them anymore for offroad
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:47 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect
And they set the block too far back in that pic, its touching the arms.
Hi. Yeps, that's correct.

Here is how it should be (from Hudy´s set-up guide):

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Old 10-28-2009, 06:22 AM
  #36  
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There is one thing that is undeniable Hudy makes some cool looking stuff.
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