fat500

iTrader: (51)

I will be racing my new ta05v2 this sat. I am a BIG fan of the tb03 (see my pic below) but have always wondered what the difference between the two machines would be.
I will post my findings here and in the ta05v2 thread
I will be using the Cusco subaru body i run on the TB03 so we get an accurate test

JD Skyline

Please keep me posted!! What kind of motor are you going to use for this test? I'm wondering and curious how a TB03 will hold with a 13.5T or 10,5T BL motor in a race. For the winter season I'm thinking TB03
I will be watching the TA05V2 thread

1101

Is that metal bumper plate just to add weight to the front (for drifting)??
The plastic bumper assembly on mine seems a bit droopy.
I'd like to make mine a bit more crash proof with something like that ( for when idiots drive across the track into the path of other cars)

mtaddei

Ciao JD, i'm currently using the tb03 with 10.5T, with all hop up suggested by tamiya, it works great with good handling, i replaced also the chassis with the carbon fiber ones of 3racing, but sometims its better the plastic ones.

ciao
Max

wrxnfx

iTrader: (30)

Yes, that aluminum bumper plate is to add a little weight to the front for more steering. There is a carbon fiber one, too.

In regards to my question, I found the answer when I looked under the rear chassis brace. There isn't much room to go any larger than a 64P 98T spur. That is the max without hacking everything. The EVO 5 can fit a 100T with a little filing of the upper deck.

wrxnfx

iTrader: (30)

By any chance...Does anyone have a 3Racing TB03-16 Graphite Chassis Conversion for the TB03 they are willing to part with? Prefer new, but would consider used, too. PM me if you have one to sell and let me know what you would be asking for it. Thanks!

azn87

has any one used cvds for the tamiya tb03? right now i have the tb03d and im getting some dog bone chatter in the front turning right only, also i have turned down the end point for the right direction only to about 65% compared to turning left which is 90% with out any binding?? can someone help or in need of cvds?

junn

iTrader: (5)

Yep i do, i think everyone here does as well

Use the 416 outdrives and driveshafts (46mm i think)

Aluminium or steel is up to you, aluminium will bend especially on the front - you can use aluminium on the rear and steel on the front

hope that helps

azn87

y would it be 46mm long if the kit calls for 42mm??? any advantages on that? does anyone know where i can get 2 locked spools and a center one way for cheap? except ebay??

MOTORMAN29

iTrader: (1)

I think it depends if your using a spool or something, But I have the steel front and blue aluminum on the rear.

MOTORMAN29

iTrader: (1)

i'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread. you just gotta read.......

wrxnfx

iTrader: (30)

A low cost fix for this problem would be to get some nitro fuel tubing and cut a small portion to fill up the play between the dogbone and the differential. Did this to my friends TB03 and didn't need to spend big bucks for CVDs.

azn87

can someone tell me what are the advantages of using the IFS system compared to the usual front shock mount???

wrxnfx

iTrader: (30)

I believe the main advantage of the IFS front suspension is lower CG and the ability to use bodies that have a more sloped front for better aerodynamics.

RandomFellow

iTrader: (3)

So, I ditched my TA-05 in hopes of falling in love again with shaft drive cars (my last one was a TC3). So, I've been running my TB-03 with a 17.5 for the last few weeks and I'm just stumped by how to resolve the really loose rear end on this car at speed. It doesn't matter if your on-power, off-power, neutral - going too fast (not necessarily too fast for the track, just too fast for the car) and the rear just goes.

Now, I'm running on indoor ozite with quite a traction groove laid into it. The car is just fishtailing all over the place, and I can't get a handle on it.

My setup is as follows:

Front:
Solid diff
30wt oil
Blue springs
1mm spacer on shock pivot mount
1C/1C
Suspension mounts as low as can go
arms 3.5mm towards the back
Upper link outside mount - 0mm
Upper link inside mount - 2mm in hole 3
1.5 camber
1 degree toe-out

Rear:
Ball diff
30wt oil
Red springs
Shock bottom - farthest outside hole
Shock top - 2nd to farthest outside hole on tower
1XA/1B with 1 degree hubs
arms 3.5mm towards the back
Suspension mounts as low as they can go
Upper link outside mount - 1mm and farthest outboard
Upper link inside mount - 1mm in hole 4
2.0 degrees camber

I'm running A tires with medium inserts (trying to keep it TCS legal). The car is balanced and tweak-corrected.

If anyone can give me some advice, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm really getting frustrated with this car, and I'm ready to toss it and go back to the TA-05.