Advil

iTrader: (19)

You should try Jeff Brown's asphalt set up available at www.corallyusa.com. It is an awesome starting point and possibly could be what you are looking for. Try it as written, then after you are comfortable with it change it to suit you.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

With the new arms and 2 hole narrow rear uprights, what settings would you use to keep the rear of the car equal to the old arms with the shocks all the way out on the standard extensions? I want to get the added strength of the new arms without changing my setup so I can get a feel for how different they might feel, if at all.

Hopefully some of the new stuff gets run in Vegas. The setup sheets you guys provide are invaluable, but they're starting to get a little bit outdated with all the new parts that are coming out and being used. I'm especially curious about the new shock pistons, and Jeff's earlier prediction about people going back to 1.1 and .9 for carpet.

Big Rigg

The original release of the new arms had 1 degree of toe by default for the rear arms... can someone confirm if the current release of new arms still has this 'feature'?

SJP

Another quick (New Arm) Question.

Does the new arms alter the wheel base length in comparison to the old ones?

Cheers
Scott

Jeff Brown

Well, the inner hole on the new arm is the stock position for the hingepin. If you put it in the outer hole you will quickly find the CVD's are not long enough. I am building a new car for Vegas and I will probably put the new arms on with the hubs.

The setups are not really outdated, they are fast and win. We just have new options we need to test to see what will work. I am planning putting the 1.1mm pistons in my car for Vegas.

Jeff

Jeff Brown

The new arms never had toe built into them from everything I understood. It would not make sense to do that. The latest batch we received should be straight as well.

Jeff

Jeff Brown

No, they do not.

Jeff

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Jeff Brown with the answers to all questions!!

It hot down there yet?

EA

Rainman40

Hot in FL, surely you jest

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Just lay a new front or rear arm on top of an old style arm to see the differences in the placements of the holes. That should show you the way.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Jeff,

Can you post an updated setup sheet on the Corally USA website that has the hole positions on the new arms? I still get cross-eyed looking at the old setup sheets.

Many thanks.

Bill

|<R1Z |>

iTrader: (5)

can anyone else comment? i have experienced this also. I was running the 2 degree hubs -and for some reason.... had 3 degrees of toe with equal shimming on the front and back arm mount.

Jeff Brown

Hot........ Hot?! LOL...... I don't leave the shop during the day.

Jeff

Jeff Brown

I'll try and work on that. The setup sheets are created overseas usually but I could probably do it. The problem now is will everyone be using the new arms? haha.

The new arm holes are as follows..........

Outside = X-long SRC extension
Middle = Standard extension
Inside = No extension on old arm

The front arm holes are as follows......

Outside = new 4th hole
Inside = outside hole from old arm

Jeff

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

And just to clarify, with the new arms and new 2 hole narrow rear hubs on the inside hole, we will need to use the regular hexes to make width and not the narrow ones? With the new front arms, the shimming/hex combo stays the same to make width, right? I guess I could just lay the arms on top of the others like someone said, but it's good to get it out here for everybody else to see.

Thanks for the info Jeff. The current setup sheets are great, it's just getting a little more tricky now with all the new options.