MBX5
#946
Yeah i will be there. My first ever real race too. Yeah it would be great to meet ya Be nice to chat with a fellow Mugen racer. I am the only one here in Tas with a Mugen buggy.
I dont know how i will go with my Mugen but it should be great fun none the less
Cant wait. See you there i guess.
Tim.
I dont know how i will go with my Mugen but it should be great fun none the less
Cant wait. See you there i guess.
Tim.
#947
Tech Initiate
can any one explain what the rear lower hinge pin holder does E0105 the one with the two pins that go in to the chassie (0, -1, -2, ect) on my 5r i run the 0 and on the old car i ran -1
thanks
thanks
#948
You must be refering to the lower arm mount that adjust "kick up", which is located at the rear of the front lower arms, because that's the only one with the two location pins that go into the chassis. I run the -1 on the MBX5R, and the Mugen mounts go 0, -1, -2 starting from bottom(closest to chassis) then up. 0 will give you the most kick up(arms leaned back) and -2 will give you the least kick up(arms more flat) Less kick up will give you better steering response and handles better on a smooth track, and More kick up decreases your response but it will handle better on a rough track, that's why I just split the difference and go with the -1 mount and leave it.
#949
Tech Initiate
yup thats what i needed to know. thanks
#950
Barnes,
Do you run the little seals in the diffs? I left mine out it made the diffs "feel" tight.
And on the upper front arms, do you have your push all the way forward? Im looking for aggressive steering.
Do you run the little seals in the diffs? I left mine out it made the diffs "feel" tight.
And on the upper front arms, do you have your push all the way forward? Im looking for aggressive steering.
#951
Daniel, That 5r has all kinds of steering.. Most people run the arms forward on top and back on the lower arms for the front. Look back a few post, and you will find some good setups, or call me here at work 982-5127. Twig
#952
I don't run the 4 small o-rings that set behind the small spider gears in the diffs, they serve no purpose and only cause drag and heat from friction. As for my front upper arms I currently have only one thin 1mm spacer in front of the top arms, and the 2mm spacer is in front of my lower arms.
#953
Sweet, That was my only problem with my mbx5 last year was lack of steering. Thanks guys!
#954
That's funny because i am finding it has too much steering. I have lots of over steer and its very twitchy on the steering too.
So i have been doing the complete opposite to most to try and get it to stabilise and calm down a bit.
I am really amazed at how different my R is to all the other R's with steering, even when setup exactly the same.
So i have been doing the complete opposite to most to try and get it to stabilise and calm down a bit.
I am really amazed at how different my R is to all the other R's with steering, even when setup exactly the same.
#955
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Nitroaddicts
Sweet, That was my only problem with my mbx5 last year was lack of steering. Thanks guys!
#956
Sebs -He was talking about the old MBX5 that he ran last year, not his new R.
#957
Hey Ryan,
Do you know what effect on handling lowering the alloy rear uprights has ?
Thanks.
Do you know what effect on handling lowering the alloy rear uprights has ?
Thanks.
#958
Timox- If you think about it, by going from the upper to the lower hinge pin holes you are lowering the buggy's center of gravity. Because your wheels/tires and rear hubs are staying in the same place in reference to the ground, but the whole rest of the buggy(weight) is being lowered closer to the ground.
#959
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
Originally Posted by RYAN BARNES
Timox- If you think about it, by going from the upper to the lower hinge pin holes you are lowering the buggy's center of gravity. Because your wheels/tires and rear hubs are staying in the same place in reference to the ground, but the whole rest of the buggy(weight) is being lowered closer to the ground.
It wouldn't really change the CG, it would change the roll center. The chassis (and therefore the mass) would remain at the same height, the angle of the lower arms would change. I guess that one you could say that some portion of the rear arm would be lower...but really...it would make a pretty big difference on the roll center.
#960
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Timox
Hey Ryan,
Do you know what effect on handling lowering the alloy rear uprights has ?
Thanks.
Do you know what effect on handling lowering the alloy rear uprights has ?
Thanks.
a) if rear arm is attached to buttom most hole on the upright: a lot more rear traction (entering and exiting) The rear end does not want to brake loose, but if it does, it will slide for a bit before it stops. This is my observation.
b) if rear arm is attached to top hole on the upright: the rear end is more floaty, it rotates with less effort... my observation and advise if you run this setting is to realy watch that throtle finger.
What has everyone else discovered about this kool feature... and sometimes overlooked?