sonspit

matter of fact its a 43t pinion and yes im doing speed runs ..and I run a castle 1406 6900kv motor and sidewinder v2
I also run a hobbywing xerun 120a v2.1 and xerun 3.5t
Fans on esc"s and motors

sonspit

I keep getting the thought of using a 1/8 scale brushless system lke 2200kv with 4s in the sakura s
what yall think?

6376vette

Not sure the motor will fit the mount. you may want to check that out.

sonspit

I lined it up.it seems like it will fit.i should get some high speeds like that...u think

danny325is

iTrader: (1)

Just posting for FYI:

I got my FDR down to 3.694 and that seems the sweet spot for me at the moment.

I have 37t Diffs, 19t lay shaft gears. I am running a 74t Spur and a 39t Pinion
running 17.5 Hobbywing motor, Justock esc. I do have a fan on my motor

Outside temp 70 degrees, Track Temp 85. After about 5 mins motor was at 145. after 10 mins it was 165. This gives me some room to play with once the weather gets a little hotter.

sonspit

48p???
what speeds do you think your getting out of that ratio?

zenitram

iTrader: (7)

My diffs are pretty stiff and i dont think they are suppose to be this tight. I have rebuilt then 2 times with same result. The shimming seems ok, there is a little play on the out drives. I am using the stock diff fluid and i have backed the 4 screws out little by little to make sure i dont have them to tight. Non of that seems to help any. Anyone have any help? I watched a youtube video where groskamp rebuilds his gear diffs and his seem silky smooth, making mine seem like a one way lol

sonspit

I suggest buying new diff gears..

6376vette

Are these new diffs? New o rings on the out drives need to break in some. they might be making things feel tight.

Try a lighter fluid. I liked 80wt shock oil in my rear diff.

how full is the fluid? The fluid should just cover the shafts. if it is too full then it can also feel tight. Last try pulling one shim from each outdrive and see if that helps. be careful because if it has too much play it will skip inside the diff.

personally I put a solid axle in the front and a ball diff in the rear. a little more cleaning for the ball diff but I can change the tension in 2 minutes to suit the track surface. best thing I did was get rid of gear diffs. But a lot of people like them. more trouble than they are worth to me.

zenitram

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the help guys. These are new diffs i have only ran the car twice. The o-rings do make it tight so those will need to be broke in some. I will play around with it more today and mess with the shimming and see if that helps. The diff fluid is right to the top of the bar where the manual shows it should be.

danny325is

iTrader: (1)

Yes 48p

I am not sure of speeds(mph) I mainly look at lap times

danny325is

iTrader: (1)

I just rebuilt both my Diffs. I run putty in my front diff so it is Tight by design.
My rear diff is super free. I am running 3 shims inside and 1 or 2 outside.

Notes when building:
1. make sure the diff housing is free from all flashing(excess plastic) especially the hole where the out shaft goes
2. make sure all the gears are free from excess flashing
3.Make sure all the spider gears are fully seated down in the diff. (if you turn it with out the diff cap the gears will pop back out)
4.when putting the 2 half together don't fully tighten just one screw. tighten each screw a little at a time in a cris crossing pattern
5. use Anti wear grease when assembling if you can(if you don't have AW soak all the parts in diff fluid at least)

Nickerz

iTrader: (2)

Will the electrics from a Traxxas Slash 2wd (i.e., Motor, Servo, ESC, Receiver) all fit in the Sakura Zero S?

My friend has a Slash and he just bought my Zero S off me and was wondering if he can simply move all his stuff over to the Zero S.

pmac

iTrader: (1)

I would say get the biggest you can for the back and get the smallest for the front.

The next step to get the rear spinning faster would be to get the tamiya part 54023 and put it on the rear solid axle. That would also loosen up the belt a bit which it may need with the biggest pulley will be on the back.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

For those that are having trouble building the gear diffs, this may help by following this guide.

http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=133

Remember to use ample amounts of grease to cover the seals all over, including the large diff body seal, if a lot of grease squeezes out when you tighten it up, then you know it has a good seal and won't leak.

I recently built a new diff that had a flawed o ring seal which would leak no matter what I did. After replacing the o ring, the diff stopped leaking and works great now.

Cheers
Rob.