Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

just gear it properly and you will be fine

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I'm not running one on my GTB, but I did put one on my 13.5 to see if cooling it down helped the fade I've been experiencing. It brought it down to the 120's, but didn't stop the fade. Gearing down helped, but didn't entirely fix the problem. The next step is to try a bigger LiPo. The ESC regularly comes off around 100 w/o a fan.

kyle478

If you are running brushless you can run the outer fans with no problem.
The solder tabs need to be rotated to the back of the car.

With the Arizona heat here I tried running the outer fans and it did help but I have decided to put the stator sleave heatsink on.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

That should make outdoor racing in August around here exciting. Have you been able to use the stator heatsink in the Type-R? From what I can tell, you'll have to remove the bulkhead to insert the motor if it's got that heatsink on it.

kyle478

Yes i ran the heatsink and it makes a huge difference. I think there are 6 screw you have to remove to get the bulk head out.

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

You CAN use the outer fans for brushless; take a look at the photo (just visible) of my wiring job to prove it.

POOKYT

Yo Super J!!! I only see a fan on your speedo. maybe I'm missing the others but we were talking about the fans for the motor.

Brant

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

Yeah - I did run the wires through the heatsink... I actually used a new lead from the receiver, routed it around the servo and then soldered it onto to GTX prongs. I was tired of worrying if the plug would come undone in a race. I also wired a new switch and soldered those leads on as well... It makes for a really clean finish on the wiring and eliminates the worry that the plug will come undone from the speedo (since its mounted sideways, that increases the chances).

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi all,

Well, I now have my car wired up and setup ready for a bit of tarmac running, hopefully on monday. Have the car setup as the kit asphalt setup (Spool, F; 15lb, 0.4" bar, low rc, R;10lb, 0.3" bar, low rc), anyone got any other tips/tricks to help on it's way?

One thing I have noticed, I've had to reduce the EPA on my steering servo down to 60% L&R to stop the horn hitting the top deck. Now I assume that because of the short amount of servo throw required to get full lock, that the steering might feel quite twitchy... how much curve/expo do people run on there steering with the car?
Bear in mind, I'm coming from a tamiya where full lock takes about 90-95% of the servo throw, and with that I tend to run around -15-20% curve.

Cheers
Ed

wallyedmonds

you da man

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

Pook- You are right, but I was trying to illustrate the point that if you solder your motor leads to the brushless endbell the way I have in the photo, you CAN put fans on the 'endbell'.

ioxqq

I'm building the typr r. I see the front and rear suspension has so much slop. Where can I buy the shims and in what size thanks

POOKYT

lol I figured that out after one of the other guys posted his pics too. HEHE

Brant

POOKYT

This is just my opinion and others need to chime in on this for their experiences.

Over all the years I have driven Losi vehicles, the play in the arms and such really used to drive me nuts. I spent hours shimming this or that and after many years of I finally came to the realization that either I didn't drive well enough to know the "play" was in or out of the suspension. I gave up on it unless it was really in excess. Usually if it was in excess then I needed to replace some worn parts. I guess what I mean by all of this is that you probably need to drive the carfirst then shim stuff out to see if you can tell the difference. Hope this helps.

Not to mention that after I spent time to shim things perfectly, it seemed than within the next two battery packs I would break an arm or something and the shims went flying!! Total frustration and I just said no! LMAO

Brant

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Just take some standard 3mm shims. I used 0.5mm on the rear, and 0.3mm on the front. I used the tamiya ones avaliable in thoose sizes, as I had some too hand.
HiH
Ed