brianhatesnitro

iTrader: (1)

again, I just think the marketing is funny because xray talks about how luxury the car is and how absolutely top notch it is out of the box but then they price the car with other "pro" level kits without including the "pro" level items and the team uses the "pro" level items to win races.

I really don't have a problem with their car.

$390 is a steal on the Xray, I thought the $399+tax that I paid was good. $419 is the absolute cheapest I've seen the #31260b evo wc kit for.

Racedayhobbies is selling the G4S for $375, just look at all the exciting features http://www.racedayhobbies.com/team_magic_cars.html and this car is winning some races as well. But just look at the limited edition for $650 but unfortunately it doesn't have details listed there.. did they make it with all magnesium or something?

GK

Hey Brian, if it makes you feel any better, new 1/8 scale Motonica - the most expensive 8th scale kit out there comes with dog bones, and as far as I know they don't even make cvd's for it yet...
This cvd argument is getting old

brianhatesnitro

iTrader: (1)

That is funny too, I agree that the argument is getting old but people keep bringing it up when they talk about the price and it is really the only thing important to the car that is not included but there is a long list of potentially unimportant things different between the nt1 and rrr evo wc or mtx4r.

Really though I'll stop posting about Xray's costs or amusing marketing and just deal with the cost just like I am forced to do at my local track where we club race for $25 and then have to pay $30 for a table at any "big race" where more than 5 people show up on top of $30-45 for entry fee and then get guilt tripped because they're doing us a favor by staying in business because the owner is rich and could close any day on a whim.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Dear Mr. Hudy,

Although I cannot benefit from front CVDs in the NT1 kit that I just purchased, I think it would be very beneficial and well-received by others if you would consider including them in the kit - so that people won't have to rant in the RCTech forum about losing dogbones out on the track, not being able to set their front trackwidth to 200mm and/or not getting their money's worth from such an upscale brand.

Best Regards,
<Your name here>

P.S. Keep up the good work!

M7H

Like the European Championship in 2006 and this year....

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

I paid $390 for my RRR EVO WC.

brianhatesnitro

iTrader: (1)

For the record, I was running 197mm front track width with 4mm of fuel tubing on the oneway side of the dogbone which is almost twice as thick as the kit supplied o-ring.

I've already spoken to Mario on the Xray forum about it and he just suggests that you upgrade the car as the team drivers have done.

Lets just settle this and say that Xray is an expensive car and can not be compared with the others on the market.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

$390 same can order NT1

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

It came with CVDs all the way around, one piece engine mount, lightweight 1sp hub, aluminum shocks, CF front and rear shock towers, lightweight midle shaft, aluminum wheel hubs. Im sure theres more I cant think of right now.

thamjk

I don't really mind getting slightly higher price on the NT1 with front CVD.

Because when you got the NT1 afterall and buy the CVD set seperately, what am I going to do with the original front dogbone and drive cup. Since the front dogbone cannot be used on the rear and keep as spare.

SPDY

Here is a solution for all the cvd wanting dog bone losing cry babys...How about you op for the +75 hexes and just turn your suspension that amount. Then you wont lose ne bones and you are not stuck buying cvd.s...just a thought.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

For $10.95 it's worth a try.

As I was looking those up on eBay, I stumbled across some CVDs from Atomic R/C. Only $36.80 for two! I wonder if they are any good???

NT-006, NT1 Ultra Spring Steel Swing Shaft (F)

SlamMan

Nice find. I'd try the Atomic set if I didn't already buy the Xray.

Atomic also carries this killer tool.

kitracer

..

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I just completed section 8 of the instruction manual and the pinion/spur gear mesh was very tight on the first pass - with no sign of any play within the engine mounting system. The only way I could loosen up the gear mesh and get rid of the grinding noise, was to rotate the engine slightly counter-clockwise (when looking from the top), so that the angle of the engine was not on a parallel axis with the 2-speed shaft. Is that right??