Originally Posted by mxwrench

RC_Alan, I would say that if taken care of properly, the Team Orion CRF engine will last longer than the typical Nova based engine. Primarily because the sleeve/piston relationship doesn't incorperate a pinch for compression. And the nikasil sleeve actually lasts a long long time. However, the usual maintenance needs to be done to ensure long life. Like replacing bearings, and conrods at regular intervals, say every 10 hrs of use.

As far as areas that need to be watched, I would say that on of the most important things with this engine is to be gentle on break in. Alot of people think that because this engine doesn't have a pinch that they can run one tank through it and go full race tune right away. Unfortunately this is not so. The engine needs time to wear in other vital components such as the crankshaft/crankcase relationship or clearance, the conrod bushing, and the piston itself still needs break in time.

As for actual components that need special attention, the front bearing is a little prone to leaking and loosness after a while, but unless the LSN is snot rich, it shouldn't do much more than weep a bit when it's close to needing replacement.

I have a few CRF engines that have more than two gallons thru them and they still make close to the same HP on the dyno as they did after break in when new. (I'm talking 1.14 vs. 1.09)

All in all I think these are great engines as long as you take the time to learn how to tune them properly and set your car up to utilize the power they make. But they are even better with a few modifications done to boost the low end performance/response.

You are a local guy, I can always help you get it tuned properly if you need it!

See you at Crystal Park sometime soon.

BK

Originally Posted by rc_alan

Thanks BK... Great information... Not for just myself, but anyone with the CRF motor... I'll PM you to let you when I'm back behind the wheel again... Hopefully late September/early October. With the 720, I'm sure I'll have to use the special clutch kit as well... Again thanks

RC_Alan

Originally Posted by mxwrench

But they are even better with a few modifications done to boost the low end performance/response.

Originally Posted by 4racer

hi bk,
thanks for setup.
what kind of material did you use ti ad on the cranckshaft
have you a picture from cranck??
did this modification add more torque??? or lower this the fuel consumption

dieter

Originally Posted by Corse-R

Maybe he used a MIG welder and some steel rod as a filler, but this isn't something you could do in-house, after filling material, you need to harden another time the crank and you can do much harm rather than good.

Probably it did just for moving (Reducing) the intake timings, for that I've seen are just insane for an engine of that size.

Originally Posted by CHUCKMANDO

Hi,
I had some problems this weekend with the engine this weekend, so I wanted to take it apart to inspect it. I cannot seem to get the sleeve out. Maybe got it out a 1/4 in. Never had this problem with other engines? Has anyone else come accross this? Also it appears not to go back down. Was thinking of heating it, not sure though.
Thanks
Charlie

Originally Posted by Z00M

My engine is stock standard. I would say it is getting stuck coming out of the crank case due to the cuts in the lower half of the sleeve. I'll await an orion representative to come on here and advise if this is normal.