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Old 08-23-2006, 09:45 PM   #691
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Originally Posted by mxwrench
RC_Alan, I would say that if taken care of properly, the Team Orion CRF engine will last longer than the typical Nova based engine. Primarily because the sleeve/piston relationship doesn't incorperate a pinch for compression. And the nikasil sleeve actually lasts a long long time. However, the usual maintenance needs to be done to ensure long life. Like replacing bearings, and conrods at regular intervals, say every 10 hrs of use.

As far as areas that need to be watched, I would say that on of the most important things with this engine is to be gentle on break in. Alot of people think that because this engine doesn't have a pinch that they can run one tank through it and go full race tune right away. Unfortunately this is not so. The engine needs time to wear in other vital components such as the crankshaft/crankcase relationship or clearance, the conrod bushing, and the piston itself still needs break in time.

As for actual components that need special attention, the front bearing is a little prone to leaking and loosness after a while, but unless the LSN is snot rich, it shouldn't do much more than weep a bit when it's close to needing replacement.

I have a few CRF engines that have more than two gallons thru them and they still make close to the same HP on the dyno as they did after break in when new. (I'm talking 1.14 vs. 1.09)

All in all I think these are great engines as long as you take the time to learn how to tune them properly and set your car up to utilize the power they make. But they are even better with a few modifications done to boost the low end performance/response.

You are a local guy, I can always help you get it tuned properly if you need it!

See you at Crystal Park sometime soon.

BK
Thanks BK... Great information... Not for just myself, but anyone with the CRF motor... I'll PM you to let you when I'm back behind the wheel again... Hopefully late September/early October. With the 720, I'm sure I'll have to use the special clutch kit as well... Again thanks

RC_Alan
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:04 PM   #692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
Thanks BK... Great information... Not for just myself, but anyone with the CRF motor... I'll PM you to let you when I'm back behind the wheel again... Hopefully late September/early October. With the 720, I'm sure I'll have to use the special clutch kit as well... Again thanks

RC_Alan
No problem Alan, I am kinda taking a break also from RC Cars as the Giant scale 3D airplane bug has bit me HARD again and I have been spending my time and money devoting to getting back in the air. (85" QQ Yak 54 w/DA 50R)!!

I think my next race will possibly be the Las Vegas round of the RC Pro Series next month, or maybe the Kyosho race at Revelation. I gotta race soon as I still have a bunch of tires left over from the National race that I need to use up before they go bad!!

See you soon,

BK
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:31 AM   #693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxwrench
But they are even better with a few modifications done to boost the low end performance/response.
Can you share some with us.

THX
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:51 AM   #694
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hi bk,
thanks for setup.
what kind of material did you use ti ad on the cranckshaft
have you a picture from cranck??
did this modification add more torque??? or lower this the fuel consumption

dieter
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Old 08-24-2006, 02:58 PM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4racer
hi bk,
thanks for setup.
what kind of material did you use ti ad on the cranckshaft
have you a picture from cranck??
did this modification add more torque??? or lower this the fuel consumption

dieter
Maybe he used a MIG welder and some steel rod as a filler, but this isn't something you could do in-house, after filling material, you need to harden another time the crank and you can do much harm rather than good.

Probably it did just for moving (Reducing) the intake timings, for that I've seen are just insane for an engine of that size.
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:00 PM   #696
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
Maybe he used a MIG welder and some steel rod as a filler, but this isn't something you could do in-house, after filling material, you need to harden another time the crank and you can do much harm rather than good.

Probably it did just for moving (Reducing) the intake timings, for that I've seen are just insane for an engine of that size.
Actually I used my TIG welder to add silicon bronze material. It is able to be welded at a much lower temp than steel and it is easier to work with once added. Still, the crank needs to be rehardened after it is heated with the welder. TIG is good cause you can presicely control the weld puddle, and not overheat the entire piece. It's like this, weld a very small amount, cool in oil, clean, weld a very small amount, cool in oil, clean, repeat. You get the point. Definitely not a do it yourself job if you don't have the right equipment!!! But the results are definitely promising!!

BK
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Old 08-30-2006, 09:42 AM   #697
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Hi all

I want to let you know that Team Orion will be sending a technical support team at the Worlds in Australia. CRF head designer Fabrice Ramella and Nitro expert Didier Boulmier will be on location for the entire time.

All of the drivers running the Team Orion CRF engine at the worlds can email us at [email protected] and we will make sure they get the best support possible at the worlds.
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:47 AM   #698
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Wow, now that is support!
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:53 PM   #699
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Good Luck Josh !
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:34 AM   #700
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Hi,
I had some problems this weekend with the engine this weekend, so I wanted to take it apart to inspect it. I cannot seem to get the sleeve out. Maybe got it out a 1/4 in. Never had this problem with other engines? Has anyone else come accross this? Also it appears not to go back down. Was thinking of heating it, not sure though.
Thanks
Charlie
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:30 PM   #701
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It'll be good to hear what the solution is Chuck. I found the same thing, although my sleeve went back in ok so I could still use the motor.
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:17 AM   #702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKMANDO
Hi,
I had some problems this weekend with the engine this weekend, so I wanted to take it apart to inspect it. I cannot seem to get the sleeve out. Maybe got it out a 1/4 in. Never had this problem with other engines? Has anyone else come accross this? Also it appears not to go back down. Was thinking of heating it, not sure though.
Thanks
Charlie
Probably, the last time you tore down, marred the sleeve or the block... take care and do a look on the crankcase, is where usually the problem is. Did you ported the sleeve?
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:33 AM   #703
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My engine is stock standard. I would say it is getting stuck coming out of the crank case due to the cuts in the lower half of the sleeve. I'll await an orion representative to come on here and advise if this is normal.
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:39 AM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
My engine is stock standard. I would say it is getting stuck coming out of the crank case due to the cuts in the lower half of the sleeve. I'll await an orion representative to come on here and advise if this is normal.
Uhm... strange... the unique way a sleeve could get trapped on the crankcase is due to sleeve warping, maybe the cuts with some extreme heat warped the sleeve, but this is a very rare scenario, please, make some with a grasp, do a quick look on the engine and measure and compare it against to a brand new one to see, where's the problem...
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Old 09-06-2006, 05:37 PM   #705
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Guys, I never tore down the engine before. First time I tried the sleeve was tight and did not want to mess with it. It is still the same, but needs to be done.
Hopefully one of the team guys has an answer. Heellllp, as this engine is a missle and do not want to ruin it. Also my last engine left

Thanks
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