Mugen MBX5R
11-21-2007, 10:03 AM
#451
When I look at the R manual, it shows them held on with locknuts. I was under the impression that captured would be more like how the Losi 8 is. This is an extra point to get to if one wants to remove just an arm or hingepin rather than just removing a plastic plate and pulling it [the hingepin] out.
11-21-2007, 10:59 AM
#454
The hinge pins are threaded, not captured.
To me, captured is what the Losi, Xray, and AE have.
Rezen- I had 5 arms break on me ( in 1 month ) and trying to change arms with the threaded hinge pins was a MAJOR pain in the arse, especially between qualifiers.
Before the bashing begins with " I've never broken a part on my car , you must not be a good driver " nonsense, I can drive. The 5r was THE worst car Iv'e ever owned with regards to breaking things. The arms have absolutely no flex at all. I've owned 2 mbx5's ( 3 including the 5r) ,cl-1, 8b, 3 x xb8tq's, xb8, not to mention the 20+ other cars I've owned.
Other than the stiff as a board arms and hine pins, it was a great car. I think they tightened up the tolerances a bit with it as well. Shocks are better too.
Get some e-clip hinge pins and call it a day.
To me, captured is what the Losi, Xray, and AE have.
Rezen- I had 5 arms break on me ( in 1 month ) and trying to change arms with the threaded hinge pins was a MAJOR pain in the arse, especially between qualifiers.
Before the bashing begins with " I've never broken a part on my car , you must not be a good driver " nonsense, I can drive. The 5r was THE worst car Iv'e ever owned with regards to breaking things. The arms have absolutely no flex at all. I've owned 2 mbx5's ( 3 including the 5r) ,cl-1, 8b, 3 x xb8tq's, xb8, not to mention the 20+ other cars I've owned.
Other than the stiff as a board arms and hine pins, it was a great car. I think they tightened up the tolerances a bit with it as well. Shocks are better too.
Get some e-clip hinge pins and call it a day.
11-21-2007, 12:49 PM
#455
On the Losi I have 13 gallons on it, and as of 3 weeks ago I have replaced EVERY single part on the buggy. I have only bent the chassis and stripped a few ball ends. But I do a full rebuild before every race day, and before qualifiers if its a HUGE club race like Revelations. Why I didn't just buy a new rolling chassis...I had a brain fart. 
My decision is between the R and the Xray EC. I know what most of you in this forum will say
Eddy, thanks for the info on the arms. The jumps on my local track are pretty small, and are more timing than pure speed, but we now have landings for every jump. Check SBRCCA.ORG for pics of my local track and you'll see.
No doubt I love the Xray, and quality is great, however I have never seen an Xray drive as well as I would like, BUT I know I am not at pro level, so my lap times most likely won't change drastically with either an Xray or Mugen vs my Losi. At Rev, I hang in there pretty well in the Novice / Amateur class when I head down there.
I DO NOT have an LHS, so all my parts are ordered online or via my old LHS in Covina near Revelation (Elite Hobbies, coolest hobby shop I have been to and Ian the owner has always been very helpful AND friendly, they will likely never loose my service)
After going through the build manual, I do like everything else on the car, despite not being a fan of PBS (I hated how the track width is a pain to adjust symmetrically)
Im on a teeter totter here: Xray EC and Mugen R, and slightly leaning Mugen at this point. Either way I will be pleased.
My decision is between the R and the Xray EC. I know what most of you in this forum will say
Eddy, thanks for the info on the arms. The jumps on my local track are pretty small, and are more timing than pure speed, but we now have landings for every jump. Check SBRCCA.ORG for pics of my local track and you'll see.
No doubt I love the Xray, and quality is great, however I have never seen an Xray drive as well as I would like, BUT I know I am not at pro level, so my lap times most likely won't change drastically with either an Xray or Mugen vs my Losi. At Rev, I hang in there pretty well in the Novice / Amateur class when I head down there.
I DO NOT have an LHS, so all my parts are ordered online or via my old LHS in Covina near Revelation (Elite Hobbies, coolest hobby shop I have been to and Ian the owner has always been very helpful AND friendly, they will likely never loose my service)
After going through the build manual, I do like everything else on the car, despite not being a fan of PBS (I hated how the track width is a pain to adjust symmetrically)
Im on a teeter totter here: Xray EC and Mugen R, and slightly leaning Mugen at this point. Either way I will be pleased.
11-21-2007, 03:03 PM
#456
That was my dilema aswell, xray or mugen, i couldnt decide. Ive driven the xray before the EC and it wasnt bad, and the quality of materials on it was awesome so i was leaning towards the EC then i drove the mbx5r and WOW!, i was sold immediately and went and ordered one 
11-21-2007, 04:15 PM
#457
Registered User
Get yourself a little 2 dollar spanner, u can keep the e-clips would much rather the threaded pin....
11-21-2007, 04:37 PM
#458
I've owned the Mugen buggy since 2004. For three years I used e-clips and never had an issue. Then for the 2006 Nats at the Farm2 I bought a new ProSpec and had my first set of threaded hinge pins. Then the MBX5T and my MBX5R came with them also. I don't have any issues getting the locknuts on or off. I use a set of skinny needle nose pliers and it's a piece of cake. I can say though that the threaded pins are more of a pain in the arse than the e-clips. If you want to change the rear toe block, you have to pull the entire pin out dropping the arm and CVD. With the e-clips you just popped off two clips, removed the 4 screws and changed the toe-in block. EASY! I used the same small needle nose to put the e-clips on & off and that was just as easy as the locknuts on the threaded pins. Both pins are the same strength & weight so there is no advantage there. It's just a preference thing.
Best regards,
Best regards,
11-21-2007, 05:01 PM
#459
i can take apart the whole front end of a mugen and have it back together (gear case and suspension off but not rip apart the gear box) in 20 minutes and that is talking/arguing with my dad at the same time lol
11-21-2007, 05:04 PM
#460
11-22-2007, 04:14 PM
#461
hi!i want to know if the titanium screws are stronger than the stoch one
does anyone use them?how much weigth can i save with them?is better to use some other screw kit like TONY"S?
does anyone use them?how much weigth can i save with them?is better to use some other screw kit like TONY"S?
11-22-2007, 04:30 PM
#462
I must buy the plus kit,or the standar one?
11-22-2007, 04:35 PM
#463
okiokioki Go Mugen Power!!!
