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Old 02-20-2012, 01:26 PM
  #22081  
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Originally Posted by evochick
Its funny what racers will compromise for performance.
But then again i know the risks and am still using it as well

Beth
I've never had a sensor issue with any of my 3 cars in 2+ years now. Even when I got t-boned right in the motor. So I'd definitely choose feel over sensorless any day.

Maybe sensor problems are more of an issue in off-road?

-Mike
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:32 PM
  #22082  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
I've never had a sensor issue with any of my 3 cars in 2+ years now. Even when I got t-boned right in the motor. So I'd definitely choose feel over sensorless any day.

Maybe sensor problems are more of an issue in off-road?

-Mike
1/8 scale offroad is a problem sometimes. but i tied mine in with fishing wire so it will never come out
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:33 PM
  #22083  
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Got to try 222 in 1/12th mod. Felt pretty good after a few minor tweaks.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:54 PM
  #22084  
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Originally Posted by Chris Adams
Randy, any way that 223 can be out and approved by roar before the nats? If not, can you guys just release 222 and get it approved so that the guys can use a superior software compared to 212?
We are doing everything we can to accommodate ROAR and the Nationals.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:23 PM
  #22085  
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For anyone using the RS/RS Pro for mod racing, what kind of power combination are you using. 10.5 with boost or lower turn with dual mode. What gives the best feel? Have you noticed a big difference with 222 in mod? Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:15 PM
  #22086  
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Randy,

Im curious about running the rs/rs pro on 1S. Will the new software eliminate the need for a receiver pack? Or is that not software related?
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:18 PM
  #22087  
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Originally Posted by Odin544
Randy,

Im curious about running the rs/rs pro on 1S. Will the new software eliminate the need for a receiver pack? Or is that not software related?
Not software related. The speedo has to have a booster built in or requires an external booster to be wired in. The receiver pack replaces the need for a booster.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:48 PM
  #22088  
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Rump... i hate to say it but go for big motor and Dual Mode. DM is majical...
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Rump... i hate to say it but go for big motor and Dual Mode. DM is majical...
Thanks Dub.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:17 PM
  #22090  
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I don't know, 222 sensored, 6.5 boosted 12th mod was very smooth and controllable. At least until the main when the tires went off
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:31 PM
  #22091  
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Originally Posted by wingracer
I don't know, 222 sensored, 6.5 boosted 12th mod was very smooth and controllable. At least until the main when the tires went off
IMO, the cool thing about DM is you can feel the differences in stator windings like you could with brushed mod arms. A brushed 8x1 clearly had more pop and was harder to drive on medium bite surfaces compared to a 8x3... you could feel it in the trigger.

An OCTA wind for example is soo smooth using DM. You still have timing advance and RPM range, but it feels much better "going up a tooth" on DM, and running BIG power is easier to do with less interface time.

Give it a chance...
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:08 PM
  #22092  
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Help..
I am running a tekin r.s in my serpent tc and I suffered a brown out no throttle at all. When I pull off the body there does not appear to be any light on the esc (it is powered off). The tricky part is this has happened before, last season in fact so at the end of the season I sent motor and esc to tekin and they serviced them and sent them back. So now I am running the serviced ESC with a new motor 9.5 redline with 13mm rotor a new servo Savox 1251 low pro,new battery protek 6500 65c new rx (changed from 3300t to 3100) and new car. the only thing that is unchanged is the ESC and Spektrum DX3R pro tx. Spektrum cap installed

The shutoff can happen after a lap or in the 4th minute of a main no pattern.
Temps are fin switch is on battery is charged. All parts are new out of box and quality. no timing, boost or turbo on motor. same solder job and wires that are on my other stuff that works..
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:29 PM
  #22093  
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Try a different servo. Something other than savox.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:01 PM
  #22094  
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders
Help..
I am running a tekin r.s in my serpent tc and I suffered a brown out no throttle at all. When I pull off the body there does not appear to be any light on the esc (it is powered off). The tricky part is this has happened before, last season in fact so at the end of the season I sent motor and esc to tekin and they serviced them and sent them back. So now I am running the serviced ESC with a new motor 9.5 redline with 13mm rotor a new servo Savox 1251 low pro,new battery protek 6500 65c new rx (changed from 3300t to 3100) and new car. the only thing that is unchanged is the ESC and Spektrum DX3R pro tx. Spektrum cap installed

The shutoff can happen after a lap or in the 4th minute of a main no pattern.
Temps are fin switch is on battery is charged. All parts are new out of box and quality. no timing, boost or turbo on motor. same solder job and wires that are on my other stuff that works..
I had the same problem on 2 different cars running Spektrum receivers and Savox servos, one car only needed the glitch buster cap and it was perfect but the other car would glitch and brown out like you described even with the cap installed. I changed to a KO 2413 ICS servo and haven't had anymore problems, as good as the Savox servos are they just don't seem to be a totally reliable option with Spektrum receivers.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:36 AM
  #22095  
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Same issue with my Kyosho RB5, Tekin RS/Tekin 9.5, Spektrum 3120 and Savox 1257 (?).

What happens is that when you are turning and pulling throttle at the same time the voltage to the receiver drops off especially with ESCs that have a low current BEC (3amps or less). That and the power draw of the Savox (they are the hungriest servos I ever used) cause the receiver to brown out. Once the demand for current is reduced the receiver then wakes up and ESC tries to reconnect its signal.

My problem was solved just by adding the receiver capacitor but others resorted to using an external BEC of 5 amps to power the servo.
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