Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.
10-09-2006, 05:17 AM
#241
FYI
Hey John I have some nice Pan Car stuff 4 Sale............
Just an FYI
Sale Link:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...92#post2713292
Regards,
Eric
Just an FYI
Sale Link:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...92#post2713292
Regards,
Eric
10-09-2006, 07:36 AM
#243
great stuff john i am enjoying every update that you give us.. i had been wondering hw much deflection/distortion you would get in that body at those speeds..my lola (serpent) has only got about 4 inches of body aft of the mounts and the side dams are atleast an inch tall and run well to the mid section of the body so i get little to no distortion, but i'm also running much slower for now...
10-09-2006, 08:28 AM
#245
TallyRC-Thanks. I could measure the deflection at the bottom of my side dams as they got wear marks from the ground. I had trimmed them shorter previously. They got new wear marks in the last session even though they are 3/4 inch off the ground. I agree that those molded in side dams should produce quite a bit stiffer body than the bolt on ones. Now if my bolt on ones were longer like on my Stilletto, it would stiffen the body
YYHayyim. I have noted some of those differences in previous posts. I'll summarize here. Lap times are about 1.25 seconds faster with the wide car. Speed at the end of the straight is slightly faster with the narrow car. The body of the narrow car is quite a bit stiffer so it gave me less trouble on the high speed track. I have resolved this problem on the wide car now and am awaiting a new test today. The narrow car was hooked up better on the sweeper. The wide car is faster in the infield. The wide car spins slower so you can recover from some spins easier. The wide car is easier to drive on medium traction conditions, but surprisingly harder to drive than the narrow car on high traction conditions. This could be because my sparring partner was faster though, or that my body was giving me trouble. I spun out many times with the wide car and spun very little with the narrow car when the track was treated. I am still learning and setting up the wide car. It was a slightly different track treatment.
John
YYHayyim. I have noted some of those differences in previous posts. I'll summarize here. Lap times are about 1.25 seconds faster with the wide car. Speed at the end of the straight is slightly faster with the narrow car. The body of the narrow car is quite a bit stiffer so it gave me less trouble on the high speed track. I have resolved this problem on the wide car now and am awaiting a new test today. The narrow car was hooked up better on the sweeper. The wide car is faster in the infield. The wide car spins slower so you can recover from some spins easier. The wide car is easier to drive on medium traction conditions, but surprisingly harder to drive than the narrow car on high traction conditions. This could be because my sparring partner was faster though, or that my body was giving me trouble. I spun out many times with the wide car and spun very little with the narrow car when the track was treated. I am still learning and setting up the wide car. It was a slightly different track treatment.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-09-2006 at 05:55 PM.
10-09-2006, 08:57 AM
#246
In my experience a wide car is fater through most corners, more stable and more forgiving to drive. It's also less critcal in the setup. You don't need a perfect setup to be really fast, unlike on a narrow car, which is more like 12th scale.
Strange you have this much problems with the stability of the body. Is it perhaps a lightweight body?
I only use regular weight bodies. A lightweight with all the stiffening you need is heavier than a regular weight which is stiff enough.
I rarely have any problem with stability running modified (I run 8 turns brushed and 5.5 turns brushless on 1/8th scale outdoor tracks)
And John, keep the good info and good video's coming!
Strange you have this much problems with the stability of the body. Is it perhaps a lightweight body?
I only use regular weight bodies. A lightweight with all the stiffening you need is heavier than a regular weight which is stiff enough.
I rarely have any problem with stability running modified (I run 8 turns brushed and 5.5 turns brushless on 1/8th scale outdoor tracks)
And John, keep the good info and good video's coming!
10-09-2006, 05:16 PM
#247
a second and a half with the extra width? is that all car or is setup comming into play at all? seems like quite a lot.. i may have to get a wider car anyhow as i am in fear of breakig anything of this 10l3t.. i'd like to just get a new chassis cut.. can anybody make me one?
10-09-2006, 05:45 PM
#248
1.25 seconds is not all as I am still setting up the wide car well. I had insufficient traction on the sweeper in the video and lost a lot of time with the wide loop. The touring car was making up a lot of time here that he lost on the straight.
I switched to Magenta fronts today (from Purple) as this seemed to be the solution to the traction problem on the sweeper. After a little tinkering with the body I was hooked up pretty well in the sweeper on the second to last run today. No damage to the handling on the rest of the course. You might say I have graduated to Magenta fronts. The traction of the track was not as good as Saturday.
The car is very sensitive to front airdam height. If it is right and just skimming the track, but not rubbing excessively on the bumps, I have tremendous front downforce on the sweeper and a good hookup with Magenta fronts. If the dam is a little high this goes away (last run). I made quite a few adjustments to the body. I don't know if it is a heavy or light body, I'll mike it. A lot of my body problems are due to the wavy nature of the track. The car is better in the infield from the stiffeners. Not so good at the end of the straight. I may use thinner spoiler material.
The car did not like a big diameter (unworn) Magenta front tire and a small diameter (worn) Pink rear. It weaved on the straight. I had lowered the chassis to match the big front tire. A big pink rear was the best solution to fix the weaving.
I switched to Magenta fronts today (from Purple) as this seemed to be the solution to the traction problem on the sweeper. After a little tinkering with the body I was hooked up pretty well in the sweeper on the second to last run today. No damage to the handling on the rest of the course. You might say I have graduated to Magenta fronts. The traction of the track was not as good as Saturday.
The car is very sensitive to front airdam height. If it is right and just skimming the track, but not rubbing excessively on the bumps, I have tremendous front downforce on the sweeper and a good hookup with Magenta fronts. If the dam is a little high this goes away (last run). I made quite a few adjustments to the body. I don't know if it is a heavy or light body, I'll mike it. A lot of my body problems are due to the wavy nature of the track. The car is better in the infield from the stiffeners. Not so good at the end of the straight. I may use thinner spoiler material.
The car did not like a big diameter (unworn) Magenta front tire and a small diameter (worn) Pink rear. It weaved on the straight. I had lowered the chassis to match the big front tire. A big pink rear was the best solution to fix the weaving.
10-09-2006, 05:57 PM
#249
Jphn, make sure your rear tires are always larger diameter than your fronts, it makes a big difference...
10-09-2006, 06:09 PM
#250
vtl1180ny-Thanks.
I miked the bodies. The HPI Stilletto is .017 inch, My Dodge Stratus Touring Body is .014. This Peugeot Body is .012 inch. This includes a probably .001 inch paint film. Now we don't really have a whole raft of choices available. I'll Mike my other two body styles later and add them to this post. The Toyota GT1 is .011 inch.The Associated Nissan is .015 but currently out of production. Demand will always return things to production.
The thickness of the body varies a bit depending where you measure. I measured the bottom side of the bodies. The numbers correspond to my relative stiffness that I can feel by flexing the bodies. Naturally a wider body will flex more even with the same thickness material.
I miked the bodies. The HPI Stilletto is .017 inch, My Dodge Stratus Touring Body is .014. This Peugeot Body is .012 inch. This includes a probably .001 inch paint film. Now we don't really have a whole raft of choices available. I'll Mike my other two body styles later and add them to this post. The Toyota GT1 is .011 inch.The Associated Nissan is .015 but currently out of production. Demand will always return things to production.
The thickness of the body varies a bit depending where you measure. I measured the bottom side of the bodies. The numbers correspond to my relative stiffness that I can feel by flexing the bodies. Naturally a wider body will flex more even with the same thickness material.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-09-2006 at 07:35 PM.
10-10-2006, 12:21 AM
#251
There are 3 different wide pan bodies in stock at Stormer now. See what the demand will do already. Now if we can get a wide pan chassis in stock.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=ns&pn=MCA123
I have thought of setting up my next pan body this way. Note the covered rear wheel. This would have a similar effect as a side dam (increase in rear lateral surface), but would conform to the rules.
McAllisterRacing.com Images used with permission.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=ns&pn=MCA123
I have thought of setting up my next pan body this way. Note the covered rear wheel. This would have a similar effect as a side dam (increase in rear lateral surface), but would conform to the rules.
McAllisterRacing.com Images used with permission.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-13-2006 at 05:47 AM.
10-10-2006, 06:32 AM
#252
Team CRC/Nitroworks takes the 24 hours enduro at SIR
The Pantoura did it, We set the official World Record for the longest distance traveled by a 1/10th scale remote controlled car in 24 hours.
The equipment we used, was all off the shelf, and worth takeing a look at, please visist thier web sites:
www.seattleindoorraceway.com (the place to race, Doug is a true R/C Fan)
www.teamcrc.com (crazy fast car's and parts)
www.maxamps.com (6000mah LiPo's never gave us any trouble, Hyperlon Charger, charged anything we needed)
www.hackerbrushless.com (brushless mototr Ran Fast, and Ran Long)
www.quarkbrushless.com (the Speed controller never gave up)
www.bsr-raceing.com ( The tires were absolutily flawless, not a chunk in 24 hours)
www.teamirsrc.com (great rear diff's and axles, made for a solid feel for the entire race)
www.wesesdesign.com (what can I say Wess is one of the best Painters you will find)
Just for info I have 2 brand new AE 1/10th scale bodies for sale, we did not get them in time to paint, and use so I will be selling them.
The equipment we used, was all off the shelf, and worth takeing a look at, please visist thier web sites:
www.seattleindoorraceway.com (the place to race, Doug is a true R/C Fan)
www.teamcrc.com (crazy fast car's and parts)
www.maxamps.com (6000mah LiPo's never gave us any trouble, Hyperlon Charger, charged anything we needed)
www.hackerbrushless.com (brushless mototr Ran Fast, and Ran Long)
www.quarkbrushless.com (the Speed controller never gave up)
www.bsr-raceing.com ( The tires were absolutily flawless, not a chunk in 24 hours)
www.teamirsrc.com (great rear diff's and axles, made for a solid feel for the entire race)
www.wesesdesign.com (what can I say Wess is one of the best Painters you will find)
Just for info I have 2 brand new AE 1/10th scale bodies for sale, we did not get them in time to paint, and use so I will be selling them.
Last edited by crunchracer; 10-10-2006 at 07:05 AM. Reason: More info
10-10-2006, 07:48 AM
#254
Originally Posted by tallyrc
is that a 235mm body on that 190mm chassis or did you widen it? fantastic either way!!!
Yes we used a 235mm body, the chassis was left stock, 200mm +or-, we looked at a 200mm Stratus, but oppted for leaving the body like that, because it gave us more protection durring the race.
10-10-2006, 12:27 PM
#255
Crunchracer-Excellent Finish. This was actually a multi team race from looking at the results page. Here is a summary.
Driver Name Car#, Pos, Laps, Race, Time, Fast Lap, Qualifier #
Team CRC / Nitroworks 6, 1, 786, 1440:01,.966, 8.433, 1
Team Tamiya 8, 2, 784, 1440:06.608, 8.425, 2
Team Freaky village/novak/maxa, 3, 3, 754, 1440:11.257, 9.055 ,3
Team Schumacher / Rain City, 2, 4, 703, 1440:04.321, 8.017, 4
Team Freaky Village/AAA/maxx 5, 5, 627, 1440:03,.766 8,.877, 5
Team Numskull 1, 6, 477, 1440:01.110, 8.137, 6
Team Classic Thunder, 4, 7, 357, 1440:16.161, 9.371, 7
Team BrOOd 7, 8, 312, 888:22.332, 8.166, 8
Now some questions and observations
I notice the elevated battery strap and new cross brace. What was the runtime for a pack on average?
Did you use power tools to change the Battery?
What surface are you running on in the race?
What types of other cars ran in the event?