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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-10-2015, 01:41 PM
  #11476  
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Whats the benefit of running the gear diff? When would you run it types of surface etc. Also what weight oil and for what surfaces? My car has it installed and was curious if its prefered over the ball diff. 1/10 is very very new to me..
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Old 01-10-2015, 02:59 PM
  #11477  
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Originally Posted by Jgins13
Hey all, i'm a recent addition into the buggy world and built the RB6 over the holidays. Having never built a slipper clutch before (my other RC is a 4WD Tekno SCT410 which does not have one), i'm curious if anyone has any advice/thoughts on doing it correctly. I'm planning to start by running 2WD stock class (17.5) at SDRC. It was suggested that i install the slipper eliminator (Kimbrough 69T spur and slipper eliminator) for running stock.

My first question is, for those that run stock, do you still have the slipper installed? Or do you use the eliminator?

My second question is, for those who use the slipper (stock or otherwise), how do you assemble it so that the pad stays aligned with the plates as you are tightening everything down? I keep having the pads slip away from the center spur and then rotate slightly so that the edge holes on the pad no longer align with the little tabs on the gear. As a result i don't think i'm getting good contact between the plates and the pads, and i'm having a really tough time getting it adjusted correctly. Any advice on building and setting the slipper would be welcome. Thanks!

Josh
I'm running stock (about 90 miles north of ya) and am using the Avid Triad slipper. Like the other guy said, use something small to help assist keeping things in place, I always struggle with slippers. I might go the eliminator route in a few months just to see if I notice a difference. I only have 2 track days on it so far, and am running it rear motor. So far so good though, I love it!
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:18 PM
  #11478  
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Try this. Grab the gear and place the pad on it so it is facing the sky. Take the slipper plate and put it on top of the pad. Now take the car and turn it over so the top shaft will slide through the slipper plate, pad, and gear assembly you just built. Push it all of the way on. Now hold it on and slowly rotate the car over 180 degrees so the gear is now facing the sky. Install the remaining pad, slipper plate, spring retainer (if equipped), spring, spring retainer and nut. Tighten the nut until there is enough pressure on the slipper plate to keep it in position. Then place the car on the wheels and proceed to adjusting the slipper when ready. You could probably use the same steps with the slipper eliminator if needed. I hope that made sense.
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:23 PM
  #11479  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Try this. Grab the gear and place the pad on it so it is facing the sky. Take the slipper plate and put it on top of the pad. Now take the car and turn it over so the top shaft will slide through the slipper plate, pad, and gear assembly you just built. Push it all of the way on. Now hold it on and slowly rotate the car over 180 degrees so the gear is now facing the sky. Install the remaining pad, slipper plate, spring retainer (if equipped), spring, spring retainer and nut. Tighten the nut until there is enough pressure on the slipper plate to keep it in position. Then place the car on the wheels and proceed to adjusting the slipper when ready. You could probably use the same steps with the slipper eliminator if needed. I hope that made sense.
That makes a lot of sense, thanks! The eliminator is easy to install, it's just the pads that keep coming out of alignment. I'll try the idea above and see if it helps.
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Old 01-10-2015, 06:31 PM
  #11480  
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Where can I get a red plastic tool box like Jared has?
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:38 PM
  #11481  
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Has anyone tried the Schelle 4-hole 1.4 + 1.1, 1.5 + 1.1, or 1.6 + 1.1 pistons? If so, please share you experiences including shock oil used etc. Going to try 1.4 in front and 1.6 in rear with 32/30 oil respectively.
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:01 PM
  #11482  
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer
Where can I get a red plastic tool box like Jared has?
I believe it is a Plano lockjaw. It comes in red and green.
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:59 AM
  #11483  
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Originally Posted by ThePanda
I believe it is a Plano lockjaw. It comes in red and green.
I believe you are talking about this one, click here?
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:12 AM
  #11484  
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Originally Posted by gixxer420
Whats the benefit of running the gear diff? When would you run it types of surface etc. Also what weight oil and for what surfaces? My car has it installed and was curious if its prefered over the ball diff. 1/10 is very very new to me..
The benefits of a gear diff is durability and consistency.

A ball diff is much easier to adjust and is more efficient when adjusted properly.

I have been running a gear diff on medium traction clay for about 2 months now. I put it into action when my ball diff gave out during a race. I like the gear diff because it gives me one less thing to worry about.
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:36 AM
  #11485  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
I believe you are talking about this one, click here?
Yes, that would be the one.

It comes in red and green which are identical, double cover (two levels) then it comes in blue in a single level and a double double, which is essentially two of the double level ones conected back to back
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:46 AM
  #11486  
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Originally Posted by phillypete
The benefits of a gear diff is durability and consistency.

A ball diff is much easier to adjust and is more efficient when adjusted properly.

I have been running a gear diff on medium traction clay for about 2 months now. I put it into action when my ball diff gave out during a race. I like the gear diff because it gives me one less thing to worry about.
I don't understand why the gear diff gets a bad wrap. I told a guy I was running one last week and he looked at me like I was a moron or something. I'm fairly certain that it's my driving skills holding me back and not the gear diff though 😉
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:14 AM
  #11487  
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
I don't understand why the gear diff gets a bad wrap. I told a guy I was running one last week and he looked at me like I was a moron or something. I'm fairly certain that it's my driving skills holding me back and not the gear diff though 😉
A ball diff can generally give better traction on lower bite surfaces. Unlike a gear diff it doesn't really pack up much when more power is run through the diff. It comes down to personal preference to which you run.
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Old 01-12-2015, 06:12 AM
  #11488  
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Is it better to run the diff tighter or looser?

I run it until I can hold one tire and spin the other one spins 1/2 a turn when spun. I mean but heck maybe my diff setting is why my car is loose.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:16 AM
  #11489  
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Originally Posted by K_King
What problems are you having specifically? What is the current setup you have, please be detailed, electronic layout and tired used.


I run on a medium bite track where traction is lacking and I have my car pretty good right now.
Problems specifically ... Well , the car will spin on the straight at half throttle using a novak pulse , and 8.5 turned down to about 75%. Im using the same tires the winner used , Super soft calibers. My corner speed is next to nothing. I bought the car set up MM and loved it on the old surface . Its set up servo, esc, shorty, motor.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...ceway20141123/ My current set up on the car
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:00 AM
  #11490  
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I tested with the zack rogers setup yesterday. Have the exact setup, I could not get the rear to stop swinging around. What are the electronics on the car? Mine are shorty to motor and esc behind servo. I tried white fronts as well. This with 8.5 motor and dirt webs sauced golds for indoor clay. The b5ms can put down the power super easy.

Also thinking of going RM on my second car to test back to back.
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