WIITA

iTrader: (43)

Thanks, It threw me for a loop because in the first heat it was great with little fade. Second round comes around and traction comes up a little and I noticed a slight bit more fade than the last. In the main it just got worse with the more traction. What is that the result of? Sorry for all of the questions but I haven't been in the onroad game long and would like to learn these things. Thanks again!!!!!!

mikky32

that FDR will be to light.
I think that you must first find a good setup without using your Turbo.
Set your Turbo on 0 and work with your Boost and RPM setting first and try some different gearings.
I don't now if the motor likes a very light gearing like the Tekin or a heavy gearing like the Speedpassion.
Set a basic setup on your speedo and first find out how your motor reacts. Find a good gearing or find out if it need to be geared heavier or lighter.
Try this.
Boost 40
Turbo 0
Throttle 3
Start RPM 4000
End RPM 15000
7,5FDR
Start with this and start playing with the gearing.
Look if you need to gear lighter or heavier to get more acceleration.
As you find a good acceleration, than you can start with adding Boost and changing the RPM settings.
As you reached a good acceleration than watch the motor temp.
As it is low, you can set the End RPM lower for a bit more acceleration in the infield.
You can also start with adding some Boost and see what the car does.
Combine those 2. It is most of the time better to set the Boost not on max but just lower the End RPM. You can catch up the Speed loss with the Turbo.
Look were your top speed is with 0 Turbo. On that place you want to have the Turbo kicking in. Set the Turbo delay high and work down till you reached the right spot.

What is the timing on the motor?
As it is high, set the RPM settings higher or set the motor timing lower.

gubbs3

iTrader: (7)

More traction means more friction. Its the same reason why we don't run pinks and magentas in stock, they're sticky which scrubs a ton of corner speed. That extra friction might have just pushed your setup over the limit of being too hot and caused the fade.

Another thing I'm pondering: If your setup has timing that comes in on the later side, as the battery drops off a bit, motor gets hot, tires go away, etc... That decreased speed might be enough to not let the timing come in towards the end of the run and cause it to feel like bad fade, just because you're no longer running in the sweet spot of your setup???

Pamork

Do anyone have a good setup for a Duo 2 10.5T in a X-ray T3 with 57 foam tires.
I have the RS Pro esc and the track is medium size.

mdwaeracer

iTrader: (19)

Help... Can't get my RS to calibrate with my Tx. I have a KO Eurus and have follwed instructions. It finds neutral and then I pull the throttle all the way and it just beeps and the vc light flashes. Any ideas?

timmig

iTrader: (25)

Hmmmm--- look a few pages earlier---I"m having the SAME problem with my Futaba 3pks and a new RS. It worked fine for a couple of runs--then I had to change out the steering servo--now it won't find center point?? I'm trying various things to sort it out--I'll post what I find.
Tim

lochness42

iTrader: (1)

Hi, anyone knows if it's possible to repair overheated (probably) Tekin RS Pro?
One of my club mates has his speedo nonfunctional now.

CarbonJoe

Do you have a Hotwire? What is your Voltage Cutoff set to? If it is set to 3 and you are using 1s or 2s, that will happen. For voltage cutoff, a value of 1, 2, or 3 means 1s, 2s, or 3s, or 3.7, 7.4, or 11.1 volts. Try turning the voltage cutoff to Off, then re-calibrate.

I know with the Futaba 3PK, you have to set the throttle servo setting in the radio to reverse before it will calibrate correctly. Maybe the KO needs this as well?

haltol

1/12 mod

Xray link

1 s li-po fantom 5000 40C
motor 4.5 (rotor 11.5) fantom
rollout 37

Neutral width 5
Motor Type BL-FW
Voltage cut off 3.1
brake 50
DrakeBrake 5
PushControl 10
Throtel profile 1
Boost 30
Turbo 10
Turbo delay 0,3
Turbo ramp 1
Throttle 1
Start RPM 5000
End RPM 19000

Excellent speed and dynamics. (The best at competition)
The second place - is not enough experience in 1/12.

Temperature of the engine after arrival 55 C.

JPMSRacing

iTrader: (2)

I know the KO and JR Z-1 radios need to be in servo reverse for it to work with RS stuff.

mikky32

Contact Tekin. They can help you.
He must send it to Tekin but he needs first a RA number.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Is that a brand new Eurus?

loriding69

iTrader: (25)

Just throwing it out there but..... Does anyone have a extra RS laying around you wanna sell, Please PM if ya do. Thanks

mhavlena

Guys:

I was recently banned from using V.203 at my local track (TC 17.5). When attempting to revert back to V.200, I couldn't help but notice that the timing boost still gives me the option of going as high as 55, is this normal? I could have swarn that V.200 timing boost was maxed out at 30? Please help me refresh my memory.

Also, when reverting back to V.200, I noticed that the ESC is showing 3 lights (temp) at the end of 5 mins (using V.203 it never showed more than one light), but the motor stays stone cold (100 F max)...does this mean that I can add more timing boost? Is it normal that the ESC is taking more heat than the motor?

V.200 setup = I'm using FDR 5.8 (same as I was using for V.203, should I lower?), timing boost at 30, turbo at max (20).

Appreciate your assistance.
Regards,
MH

timmig

iTrader: (25)

OKAY---AFTER plugging the speed control into the steering channel #1--It FOUND the center point. Speed control is working okay!!!! Change out the reciever---thinking it's channel 2---NOPE!!! I've gone back into the Futaba 3PK transmitter SEVERAL times to re-check all the settings I know of---EPA's -- no Expo--no ABS--no Throttle speed--in REVERSE direction per instructions ---EVERYTHING appears to be fine!! Can't get the ESC to find center point---finally go to another model memory #--and start over---WAHLLAA!!!!! Everything works fine!!! I STILL can't find why the original Trans output model memory won't work---but setting it up on a NEW one---I get everything working good again. If I ever figure out what's gone wrong---I'll post my findings---but for now--the solution was to set up a NEW model memory!!!
Off to the races!!!!
T