3LikesTamiya TRF415
12-13-2004, 01:24 PM
#5521
Tech Master
trf415boy,
thx for the advice. that's good advice. but i will keep acerbearings inmind when i need new bearings. what's with the evo4 suspension that causes additional wear on the hub bearings?
i dont' want to screw up this car like my ta04trf a few yrs ago. want to learn everything about it b4 i buy it.
thx for the advice. that's good advice. but i will keep acerbearings inmind when i need new bearings. what's with the evo4 suspension that causes additional wear on the hub bearings?
i dont' want to screw up this car like my ta04trf a few yrs ago. want to learn everything about it b4 i buy it.
12-13-2004, 01:32 PM
#5523
Tech Master
hm... also i have a few more questions... hopefully people won't mind i am plauging this thread w/ newb questions...
what does that "reversible" suspension mean? and is the LW suspension on the MS any good? i keep hearing bad stuff about it, but i don't know what's true and what's not and the reasons why for it.
thx for spending the time to answer my questions
what does that "reversible" suspension mean? and is the LW suspension on the MS any good? i keep hearing bad stuff about it, but i don't know what's true and what's not and the reasons why for it.
thx for spending the time to answer my questions
12-13-2004, 02:00 PM
#5524
reversible means you can flip them and that provides more tuning options, as the other side has different holes for the shock location.
This suspension is not as strong as the old style suspension and it can break more easily, but some will say it's the price for performance. If you're a newb and still hit stuff, then just stick with the old suspension of the original 415, it's already very good and more durable.
This suspension is not as strong as the old style suspension and it can break more easily, but some will say it's the price for performance. If you're a newb and still hit stuff, then just stick with the old suspension of the original 415, it's already very good and more durable.
12-13-2004, 02:07 PM
#5525
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Ceramic balls are not plain ceramic, they are mild steel balls with a ceramic coating (I'm simplifying things, please do not flame). I have a set of ceramic balls in my TRF 414's diff and these diffs are just the smoothest i'e ever had (although it's not only the fact that they are ceramic, but also that they are selected for their roundness and they all are equal diameters, etc...). I've also got a set of ceramic bearings in it, and same thing, they're really sweet, they last long and require less maintenance.
Now, they won't give you anymore runtime than the stock bearings if you keep them in good condition. Also, keep in mind that on the MS (with evo 4 suspension) the wheel bearings don't last a lot of time, and this will be true for ceramic bearings aswell, even if they may prove to last longer than the stock bearings.
My advice is : get a 415 if you want and run it box stock, then when time comes to change the bearings or ball diffs, maybe you can consider ceramic ones. I found Acer Racing's stuff to be excellent for a good price.
Ceramic balls are not plain ceramic, they are mild steel balls with a ceramic coating (I'm simplifying things, please do not flame). I have a set of ceramic balls in my TRF 414's diff and these diffs are just the smoothest i'e ever had (although it's not only the fact that they are ceramic, but also that they are selected for their roundness and they all are equal diameters, etc...). I've also got a set of ceramic bearings in it, and same thing, they're really sweet, they last long and require less maintenance.
Now, they won't give you anymore runtime than the stock bearings if you keep them in good condition. Also, keep in mind that on the MS (with evo 4 suspension) the wheel bearings don't last a lot of time, and this will be true for ceramic bearings aswell, even if they may prove to last longer than the stock bearings.
My advice is : get a 415 if you want and run it box stock, then when time comes to change the bearings or ball diffs, maybe you can consider ceramic ones. I found Acer Racing's stuff to be excellent for a good price.
Do ceramics have a very small steel core?
I am very interested to know.
12-13-2004, 02:15 PM
#5526
Tech Master
trf415boy,
what do you mean by u can "flip them"?
just wondering what does "them" refer to in this case? (it means i can screw the same plate on "backwards"?) unsure of the meaning there.
the MS has no problem using the original 415 plate? i run 19T on a track with not a lot of straights, so just fr your personal experience, (and no u dont' need to be responsible for anything i end up breaking, not going to blame anyone for my horrible skills) u think the MS plate will be able to stand up to it?
that steel ball thing is interesting too, i want to understand how that works too
what do you mean by u can "flip them"?
just wondering what does "them" refer to in this case? (it means i can screw the same plate on "backwards"?) unsure of the meaning there.
the MS has no problem using the original 415 plate? i run 19T on a track with not a lot of straights, so just fr your personal experience, (and no u dont' need to be responsible for anything i end up breaking, not going to blame anyone for my horrible skills) u think the MS plate will be able to stand up to it?
that steel ball thing is interesting too, i want to understand how that works too
12-13-2004, 02:21 PM
#5527
Originally posted by TRF415boy
reversible means you can flip them and that provides more tuning options, as the other side has different holes for the shock location.
This suspension is not as strong as the old style suspension and it can break more easily, but some will say it's the price for performance. If you're a newb and still hit stuff, then just stick with the old suspension of the original 415, it's already very good and more durable.
reversible means you can flip them and that provides more tuning options, as the other side has different holes for the shock location.
This suspension is not as strong as the old style suspension and it can break more easily, but some will say it's the price for performance. If you're a newb and still hit stuff, then just stick with the old suspension of the original 415, it's already very good and more durable.
12-13-2004, 02:26 PM
#5529
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Ceramic balls are not plain ceramic, they are mild steel balls with a ceramic coating (I'm simplifying things, please do not flame). I have a set of ceramic balls in my TRF 414's diff and these diffs are just the smoothest i'e ever had (although it's not only the fact that they are ceramic, but also that they are selected for their roundness and they all are equal diameters, etc...). I've also got a set of ceramic bearings in it, and same thing, they're really sweet, they last long and require less maintenance.
Now, they won't give you anymore runtime than the stock bearings if you keep them in good condition. Also, keep in mind that on the MS (with evo 4 suspension) the wheel bearings don't last a lot of time, and this will be true for ceramic bearings aswell, even if they may prove to last longer than the stock bearings.
My advice is : get a 415 if you want and run it box stock, then when time comes to change the bearings or ball diffs, maybe you can consider ceramic ones. I found Acer Racing's stuff to be excellent for a good price.
Ceramic balls are not plain ceramic, they are mild steel balls with a ceramic coating (I'm simplifying things, please do not flame). I have a set of ceramic balls in my TRF 414's diff and these diffs are just the smoothest i'e ever had (although it's not only the fact that they are ceramic, but also that they are selected for their roundness and they all are equal diameters, etc...). I've also got a set of ceramic bearings in it, and same thing, they're really sweet, they last long and require less maintenance.
Now, they won't give you anymore runtime than the stock bearings if you keep them in good condition. Also, keep in mind that on the MS (with evo 4 suspension) the wheel bearings don't last a lot of time, and this will be true for ceramic bearings aswell, even if they may prove to last longer than the stock bearings.
My advice is : get a 415 if you want and run it box stock, then when time comes to change the bearings or ball diffs, maybe you can consider ceramic ones. I found Acer Racing's stuff to be excellent for a good price.
there are many kind of ceramic materials but the ones that we use for rc is made out of silicon nitride. it has a VERY different property than steel coated with ceramic. you might be thinking of the white Ginzu knives as seen on TV.
12-13-2004, 02:37 PM
#5530
Did Rheinhard use the Alex Racing Barracuda R3 sway bar kit
(Product # A6341-A6343) during the worlds?
I noticed the decal on his car as well as the black sway bars like these ones -
(Product # A6341-A6343) during the worlds?
I noticed the decal on his car as well as the black sway bars like these ones -
12-13-2004, 03:07 PM
#5531
Tech Elite
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What is the diameter of those sways?
12-13-2004, 03:12 PM
#5532
I have no idea Chris - sorry 
12-13-2004, 04:05 PM
#5533
Originally posted by rcnewb2004
trf415boy,
what do you mean by u can "flip them"?
just wondering what does "them" refer to in this case? (it means i can screw the same plate on "backwards"?) unsure of the meaning there.
the MS has no problem using the original 415 plate? i run 19T on a track with not a lot of straights, so just fr your personal experience, (and no u dont' need to be responsible for anything i end up breaking, not going to blame anyone for my horrible skills) u think the MS plate will be able to stand up to it?
that steel ball thing is interesting too, i want to understand how that works too
trf415boy,
what do you mean by u can "flip them"?
just wondering what does "them" refer to in this case? (it means i can screw the same plate on "backwards"?) unsure of the meaning there.
the MS has no problem using the original 415 plate? i run 19T on a track with not a lot of straights, so just fr your personal experience, (and no u dont' need to be responsible for anything i end up breaking, not going to blame anyone for my horrible skills) u think the MS plate will be able to stand up to it?
that steel ball thing is interesting too, i want to understand how that works too
About the plate, i can't tell for sure but the only difference as far as i know with the stock 415 plate is the thickness, 2.5mm instead of 3.
12-13-2004, 04:14 PM
#5534
Originally posted by Kenshin
wow, a couple of days ago you didn't know what an A-front bridge block, now you are giving advice.
wow, a couple of days ago you didn't know what an A-front bridge block, now you are giving advice.
I didn't notice a huge weight difference in my bearings. All i'm saying i base it on my knowledge of materials, a full ceramic ball will just get destroyed at the first crash because it will not have any resilience.
All ceramic materials i came across were made out of steel, which surface is then impregnated with an additive by being warmed to a few 100's degrees and then placed in a atmosphere saturated with the additive we want to use (like nitride).
The additive diffuses into the material to depths of a few microns, then the part is quenched. The nitride on the surface of the mild steel makes for a quenching only on the surface and not in the core of the material (because mild steel cannot be quenched). I may be wrong but I know that there have been problems with ceramic bearings in bikes, because the surface of the balls was peeling off, as the core was deformating and the coating (which is not a coating in reality) could not because it was too hard.
12-13-2004, 04:24 PM
#5535
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Well, i'm new on this board and didn't want to end up with reading the whole 180+ pages to find out (ok i'm exagerating). I used the LW suspension on my TRF 414 and i'm just getting a 415 now that you can get some at reasonable price. Plus, I've got experience from the SD about small bearings.
I didn't notice a huge weight difference in my bearings. All i'm saying i base it on my knowledge of materials, a full ceramic ball will just get destroyed at the first crash because it will not have any resilience.
All ceramic materials i came across were made out of steel, which surface is then impregnated with an additive by being warmed to a few 100's degrees and then placed in a atmosphere saturated with the additive we want to use (like nitride).
The additive diffuses into the material to depths of a few microns, then the part is quenched. The nitride on the surface of the mild steel makes for a quenching only on the surface and not in the core of the material (because mild steel cannot be quenched). I may be wrong but I know that there have been problems with ceramic bearings in bikes, because the surface of the balls was peeling off, as the core was deformating and the coating (which is not a coating in reality) could not beca
use it was too hard.
Well, i'm new on this board and didn't want to end up with reading the whole 180+ pages to find out (ok i'm exagerating). I used the LW suspension on my TRF 414 and i'm just getting a 415 now that you can get some at reasonable price. Plus, I've got experience from the SD about small bearings.
I didn't notice a huge weight difference in my bearings. All i'm saying i base it on my knowledge of materials, a full ceramic ball will just get destroyed at the first crash because it will not have any resilience.
All ceramic materials i came across were made out of steel, which surface is then impregnated with an additive by being warmed to a few 100's degrees and then placed in a atmosphere saturated with the additive we want to use (like nitride).
The additive diffuses into the material to depths of a few microns, then the part is quenched. The nitride on the surface of the mild steel makes for a quenching only on the surface and not in the core of the material (because mild steel cannot be quenched). I may be wrong but I know that there have been problems with ceramic bearings in bikes, because the surface of the balls was peeling off, as the core was deformating and the coating (which is not a coating in reality) could not beca
use it was too hard.