Losi 8ight building and setup
05-08-2007, 06:27 AM
#3391
Tech Initiate
losa3525 is the center rebuild kit.
.
05-08-2007, 08:50 AM
#3393
Tech Adept
Organization
Hi everyone,
I am new to this forum and to a Losi 8 buggy as well. Just finish reading the 114 pages worth of valuable information not found anywhere else, but as you can imagine it took me a while.
Is there anyway to get this thread organized, like with pointers to the servo setup process, or the clutch spring rating, and so many others.
For example the servo is on page 43, tex1 has a KH shoes setup guide on page 113 and so on.
Just a suggestion.
Regards
I am new to this forum and to a Losi 8 buggy as well. Just finish reading the 114 pages worth of valuable information not found anywhere else, but as you can imagine it took me a while.
Is there anyway to get this thread organized, like with pointers to the servo setup process, or the clutch spring rating, and so many others.
For example the servo is on page 43, tex1 has a KH shoes setup guide on page 113 and so on.
Just a suggestion.
Regards
05-08-2007, 02:47 PM
#3394
Tech Fanatic
The closest you're going to get is using the search feature, that will cut down your reading a bit.
05-08-2007, 03:28 PM
#3396
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Originally Posted by RcBros.com
What is the difference between the kit and rtr version?
Well the kits has the follow which the RTR does not
-chassis
-shock towers
-hingepins/hingepin braces are all Hard anodized.
-Hard anodized shockshafts $28 for set
-aluminum shock caps
-kit comes with all available springs and swaybars
-different color wing and wheels
-hard ano wheel hexes
How do I fix my leaky shocks?
Purchase some TKO O-rings
My shock pistons keep coming off, why?
Make sure you secure them with blue thread lock, and allow a few hours ( a full day you if can ) for them to dry, then you should be good to go.
How do I stop ripping shock boots?
Get rid of them and pick up some clown balloons, then follow this how-to HERE
I keep blowing throttle servos, whats the deal?
Fist make sure you are using the rubber grommets that come with servo.. Then when you tighten the screws down (make sure you have washers) only tighten down the screw until it just hits the washer, then another 1/2 turn. You should still slightly be able to move the washer.
Now one of the most important parts, adjust your EPA of your servos, keep in mind you do encounter chassis flex so you'll want to take this into account (more info to come when mine arrives)
When you set up your throttle and brake linkages your want them to be perfectly parallel and straight, other wise your servo will strain.
What Start box can I use?
The Mugen [MUGBO230]
OFNA Chrome top start box [OFN10250] works as well, but you'll need to file the wheel like mentioned below
OFNA Chrome top start box with Dual Motors [OFN10248]
My Starter box makes it way hard to start my 8ight, what can I do?
Take a file, and file down your wheel so its shape similar to this /\ the 8ight requires a thinner wheel and by shaving down the sides it makes it easier to contact the flywheel of your motor and not the chassis itself.
I put the diffs together and they mash really and bound badly, what can I do?
You'll need to put the pinion in the case half first then push it as far as it will go, then on the opposite side install your CVD flush against the bearing and then screw down the set screw.
My diff gears still seam to have burs on them, what gives?
This is a common issue, you can simply pick them off, with something similar to a dental pick, or you can "break in" yours diffs, install them, and give the diffs sometime to work them selfs in.
How do I attached the fuel clamp to the gas tank?
Shoe Goo, or any other heavy duty glue will do the trick
I keep breaking my shock standoffs, is there a way to over come this?
That area is very sharp and makes it easy for the standoff to be sheared off, take a dremel with a small grind stone tip and chamfer the hole on the shock tower so the standoff can go through it.
What are the stiffness' are each clutch spring?
silver- stiffest
gold
green
black- softest
What changes do the swaybars make?
thicker sway bars in the rear will increase steering and allow the car to rotate more. Thicker sway bar in the front will provide more on power steering and less off power steering.
What extras should I carry with me?
Well from what I've read, heres what I gather:
Clutch Bearings
Hingepins
Shock Standoffs
Any cheap mods I can do?
Besides the balloons for shock boots, I've seen alot of guys take the some losi springs [LOSA5080] and insert them on on the screw in between the brakes discs.
How do I measure and adjust drop?
Per the manual front drop should be 95mm and rear drop should be 106mm.
To measure drop, you'll need to use some calipers, measure from the center top screw of your shock to the center for the bottom shock screw.
Adjust the front and rear droop by adjusting the front / rear down stop screws. Tighten the screws to increase the droop height (less travel). Loosen the screws to decrease the droop height. (more travel). Less droop in the front has less on power steering and is better for small bumps. Less droop in the rear has less off-power steering. More droop in the front has more on power steering and will be better on rough tracks. More travel in the rear increases rear traction and off power steering.
What size are the clutch bearings?
the outer is a standard 5mm x 10mm and the inner is 5mm x 13mm
My 8ight seems to push on cornering, any ideas?
It's been gathered that after one has ran a few gallons through the 8ight the CVD bones begin to wear, once this happens the suspension doesn't work as it should and it affects cornering. Replace them, and you should be good to go!
Anyone find a fix to keep the front steering link ends from breaking?
Most people upgrade them to kyosho ends and don't seem to have a problem after that. The first batch of rod ends on the 8ights were crap, but they've soon since upgraded. The new part number is LOSA6046 4mm rod end set.
Well the kits has the follow which the RTR does not
-chassis
-shock towers
-hingepins/hingepin braces are all Hard anodized.
-Hard anodized shockshafts $28 for set
-aluminum shock caps
-kit comes with all available springs and swaybars
-different color wing and wheels
-hard ano wheel hexes
How do I fix my leaky shocks?
Purchase some TKO O-rings
My shock pistons keep coming off, why?
Make sure you secure them with blue thread lock, and allow a few hours ( a full day you if can ) for them to dry, then you should be good to go.
How do I stop ripping shock boots?
Get rid of them and pick up some clown balloons, then follow this how-to HERE
I keep blowing throttle servos, whats the deal?
Fist make sure you are using the rubber grommets that come with servo.. Then when you tighten the screws down (make sure you have washers) only tighten down the screw until it just hits the washer, then another 1/2 turn. You should still slightly be able to move the washer.
Now one of the most important parts, adjust your EPA of your servos, keep in mind you do encounter chassis flex so you'll want to take this into account (more info to come when mine arrives)
When you set up your throttle and brake linkages your want them to be perfectly parallel and straight, other wise your servo will strain.
What Start box can I use?
The Mugen [MUGBO230]
OFNA Chrome top start box [OFN10250] works as well, but you'll need to file the wheel like mentioned below
OFNA Chrome top start box with Dual Motors [OFN10248]
My Starter box makes it way hard to start my 8ight, what can I do?
Take a file, and file down your wheel so its shape similar to this /\ the 8ight requires a thinner wheel and by shaving down the sides it makes it easier to contact the flywheel of your motor and not the chassis itself.
I put the diffs together and they mash really and bound badly, what can I do?
You'll need to put the pinion in the case half first then push it as far as it will go, then on the opposite side install your CVD flush against the bearing and then screw down the set screw.
My diff gears still seam to have burs on them, what gives?
This is a common issue, you can simply pick them off, with something similar to a dental pick, or you can "break in" yours diffs, install them, and give the diffs sometime to work them selfs in.
How do I attached the fuel clamp to the gas tank?
Shoe Goo, or any other heavy duty glue will do the trick
I keep breaking my shock standoffs, is there a way to over come this?
That area is very sharp and makes it easy for the standoff to be sheared off, take a dremel with a small grind stone tip and chamfer the hole on the shock tower so the standoff can go through it.
What are the stiffness' are each clutch spring?
silver- stiffest
gold
green
black- softest
What changes do the swaybars make?
thicker sway bars in the rear will increase steering and allow the car to rotate more. Thicker sway bar in the front will provide more on power steering and less off power steering.
What extras should I carry with me?
Well from what I've read, heres what I gather:
Clutch Bearings
Hingepins
Shock Standoffs
Any cheap mods I can do?
Besides the balloons for shock boots, I've seen alot of guys take the some losi springs [LOSA5080] and insert them on on the screw in between the brakes discs.
How do I measure and adjust drop?
Per the manual front drop should be 95mm and rear drop should be 106mm.
To measure drop, you'll need to use some calipers, measure from the center top screw of your shock to the center for the bottom shock screw.
Adjust the front and rear droop by adjusting the front / rear down stop screws. Tighten the screws to increase the droop height (less travel). Loosen the screws to decrease the droop height. (more travel). Less droop in the front has less on power steering and is better for small bumps. Less droop in the rear has less off-power steering. More droop in the front has more on power steering and will be better on rough tracks. More travel in the rear increases rear traction and off power steering.
What size are the clutch bearings?
the outer is a standard 5mm x 10mm and the inner is 5mm x 13mm
My 8ight seems to push on cornering, any ideas?
It's been gathered that after one has ran a few gallons through the 8ight the CVD bones begin to wear, once this happens the suspension doesn't work as it should and it affects cornering. Replace them, and you should be good to go!
Anyone find a fix to keep the front steering link ends from breaking?
Most people upgrade them to kyosho ends and don't seem to have a problem after that. The first batch of rod ends on the 8ights were crap, but they've soon since upgraded. The new part number is LOSA6046 4mm rod end set.
05-09-2007, 03:24 AM
#3398
Anyone having good luck with Li poly for reciver,starter box,transmitter?
05-09-2007, 04:59 AM
#3399
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Anyone having good luck with Li poly for reciver,starter box,transmitter?
I also run a 2400 mAh LiPo in my radio. Never had a problem there either, and it can probably run for a day. Personally, I don't see the need for a LiPo in my starter box since I don't really care if it's a little heavy (making the car and radio lighter makes more sense to me). But if I had a starter box that couldn't fit a Lead Acid battery (stuck using NiCds or NiMH's), I'd have a LiPo in there for sure.
What I like most about LiPo is that there is no guesswork when it comes to charging. You charge at a constant current until you reach the peak voltage, then current drops off to maintain that voltage. When the current has reached near-zero, it's fully charged. No false peaks, no self-discharge between use, no need to wait until they are discharged before recharging. I really like them.
05-09-2007, 12:37 PM
#3401
Thanks for the reply guy's. Im thinking about converting over and was doing pro's and con's to see if it justified getting new chargers,batteries,regulator's,etc.
05-09-2007, 01:37 PM
#3402
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Thanks for the reply guy's. Im thinking about converting over and was doing pro's and con's to see if it justified getting new chargers,batteries,regulator's,etc.
I did have to alter the switch/regulator on mine to have more space in the reciever portion of the radio tray. I cut the lead on the regulator and wired a JR plug in on the one end and got an servo plug extention plaged the regulator in the battery box compartment to make more room for my Nomadio Transciever.
05-09-2007, 02:59 PM
#3403
Tech Fanatic
I had bad luck with the HT Batteries Li-Pos for the 8 and I've been running other Li-Pos for about 2 years.
05-09-2007, 04:36 PM
#3404
Originally Posted by satoch
I had bad luck with the HT Batteries Li-Pos for the 8 and I've been running other Li-Pos for about 2 years.
I've had nothing but great success with his product. I had one reciever pack go bad, but it was 100% my fault. I let the voltage drop too low and the pack dumped on me. I had over a 1.5 hours of run time on it that day. I was able to get the voltage back in the battery and I still use it to this day.
The Li-Po charging and maintenance is damn near full proof. Charge it with the proper charger and there shouldn't be any problems. It's so effortless compared with the Nimh and Nicd batteries.
05-09-2007, 05:10 PM
#3405
Originally Posted by Panther
Did you let Eric know about your problem? He stands behind his product, if he doesn't know about the problem, then he can't help you.
I've had nothing but great success with his product. I had one reciever pack go bad, but it was 100% my fault. I let the voltage drop too low and the pack dumped on me. I had over a 1.5 hours of run time on it that day. I was able to get the voltage back in the battery and I still use it to this day.
The Li-Po charging and maintenance is damn near full proof. Charge it with the proper charger and there shouldn't be any problems. It's so effortless compared with the Nimh and Nicd batteries.
I've had nothing but great success with his product. I had one reciever pack go bad, but it was 100% my fault. I let the voltage drop too low and the pack dumped on me. I had over a 1.5 hours of run time on it that day. I was able to get the voltage back in the battery and I still use it to this day.
The Li-Po charging and maintenance is damn near full proof. Charge it with the proper charger and there shouldn't be any problems. It's so effortless compared with the Nimh and Nicd batteries.