Losi 8ight building and setup
06-17-2007, 03:45 PM
#4143
Trebor,
You know, I run cheap bearings all of the time. I do not clean my car with water. I do not use solvents. Simple Green and WD-40 spray down w/ the radio tray and motor removed. Clean it off with high pressure hose and towel. I have over a year on most all of my bearings. I have replaced my front center diff bearing and two of my rear hub bearings. My car rolls smooth as glass.
I keep them clean but I do not take them out of the car. If they feel good I just run them.
I race 1 to two times a week and go to the RC Pro Series races. Never had a problem. I also prefer a rubber sealed bearing on my clutch. This way I can get the grease out and lube with a little oil easier.
Never used expensive bearings. Don't have any problems w/ my Avid stuff. I do make sure the car has no binding or play before big races.
My 2 cents.
TEX
You know, I run cheap bearings all of the time. I do not clean my car with water. I do not use solvents. Simple Green and WD-40 spray down w/ the radio tray and motor removed. Clean it off with high pressure hose and towel. I have over a year on most all of my bearings. I have replaced my front center diff bearing and two of my rear hub bearings. My car rolls smooth as glass.
I keep them clean but I do not take them out of the car. If they feel good I just run them.
I race 1 to two times a week and go to the RC Pro Series races. Never had a problem. I also prefer a rubber sealed bearing on my clutch. This way I can get the grease out and lube with a little oil easier.
Never used expensive bearings. Don't have any problems w/ my Avid stuff. I do make sure the car has no binding or play before big races.
My 2 cents.
TEX
06-17-2007, 04:27 PM
#4144
Tech Regular
iTrader: (37)
I agree with tex. I run all Avid Revolutions all the time and never once have I said, "Boy if only I was running high dolar bearings I could have made the main".
Clutch bearings get replace every 45 minutes to 1 hour of runtime no matter what. So I would never put in a 5-10 dollar bearing there.
I clean my car with a water hose, then wd 40 to get rid of the water, then air hose to get ride of the wd 40. Still running the same set of Avids after 3 gallons. I never oil or clean them other the wiping the rubber seal off.
80.00 dollars set of high dollars bearings or 18.00 for a set of Avids. Hard call
Clutch bearings get replace every 45 minutes to 1 hour of runtime no matter what. So I would never put in a 5-10 dollar bearing there.
I clean my car with a water hose, then wd 40 to get rid of the water, then air hose to get ride of the wd 40. Still running the same set of Avids after 3 gallons. I never oil or clean them other the wiping the rubber seal off.
80.00 dollars set of high dollars bearings or 18.00 for a set of Avids. Hard call
Ive been using the avid bearings the last two summers and will not buy anything else.
06-17-2007, 05:10 PM
#4146
Ok, I guess AVID bearings it is? Can anyone give me part #'s so I know what ones to get. Thanks guys for the help. Its just the Dynamite ones have turned crunchy every raceday Ive used them. Every time I go to oil and maintain them they are shot. JUNK!! Well Ill give AVID a try. Need part #'s please.
06-17-2007, 06:11 PM
#4148
MANNEDGE-Losa5438, shock standoff http://cgi.ebay.com/L8T-05-LOSI-8T-8...ayphotohosting
Lunsford makes a really sweet one that is durable as all hell.http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=NEW
Last edited by trebor; 06-17-2007 at 07:43 PM.
06-17-2007, 06:26 PM
#4149
Well I got myself a Losi 8B a two weeks ago. Not really new to nitro or racing but new to 8 scale racing. I didn't count my Ofna 9.5 as a real racer. Anyways. First, I read all 130 something pages on the buggy, made sure I built the shocks right, put the orings under the battery box, made sure my endpoints were good and checked everything else that was mentioned in all those pages.
The First weekend out was a trophy race. I ran all three quals flawlessly and qualified 3rd in the A main. Went out and ran the 15 minute A main and finished second. Not a bad first outing with the car. I took the motor out looked over the clutch shoes, looked good. checked eveything else out, looked good.
Today I went to a club race at R/C Madness. I ran a tank or two for practice and tune. Went out to run the first qual and my buggy stops. I thought I flamed but it was still idling. DEAD SERVO. Airtronics 94758 if anyone is curious. Well I didn't bring a backup, so I went to the hobby shop and bought a JR 650M, out it in and setup all the trims and endpoints. I ran the second qual and third qual, made 6th in the A. Went out for the A main and made it about three laps in and my car came to a stop once again. Still running but no throttle input. Other than the strain on the servo when the car is in motion, there is no clearance issues or binding when it is sitting on the bench. I even flex the chassis as much as I can with my hands to see if anything is binding. I do not have any of the aluminum braces in my car, would that help?
I love this car, but I cannot afford to keep it, if its going to keep buring out servos.
Help
-Scott
The First weekend out was a trophy race. I ran all three quals flawlessly and qualified 3rd in the A main. Went out and ran the 15 minute A main and finished second. Not a bad first outing with the car. I took the motor out looked over the clutch shoes, looked good. checked eveything else out, looked good.
Today I went to a club race at R/C Madness. I ran a tank or two for practice and tune. Went out to run the first qual and my buggy stops. I thought I flamed but it was still idling. DEAD SERVO. Airtronics 94758 if anyone is curious. Well I didn't bring a backup, so I went to the hobby shop and bought a JR 650M, out it in and setup all the trims and endpoints. I ran the second qual and third qual, made 6th in the A. Went out for the A main and made it about three laps in and my car came to a stop once again. Still running but no throttle input. Other than the strain on the servo when the car is in motion, there is no clearance issues or binding when it is sitting on the bench. I even flex the chassis as much as I can with my hands to see if anything is binding. I do not have any of the aluminum braces in my car, would that help?
I love this car, but I cannot afford to keep it, if its going to keep buring out servos.
Help
-Scott
06-17-2007, 06:55 PM
#4150
Welcome to the club. I am using a Kingzhead servo mount now after going thru 2 throttle servos in my 8T. I think the key is using the double O rings on the rear so the servo tray has a ton of give. My poor 358 airtronics steering servo decided to bite the bullet in the main though. I think it had around 7-8 gallons of abuse.
06-17-2007, 07:18 PM
#4151
I have seen several guys around here have servo issues as well. I got very lucky yesterday at the track. After a practice in buggy I "thought" I cut my car off but I didnt...Only the radio. Well on Friday I got the bright Idea to set my failsafe on the radio to full brake. So you guessed it. I left the car on for about 25 minutes with the throttle servo at full brake. When I noticed the transponder light on I cut if off immediately and felt the servo....it was HOT!! Temped it with the temp guy and it was at 200!! I let it cool off for about 5 minutes and started it back up with the radio on this time and it worked perfect. Ran it in all the races and practice and had no problems. Lucky I guess!
EA
EA
06-17-2007, 07:48 PM
#4152
Tech Regular
Well I got myself a Losi 8B a two weeks ago. Not really new to nitro or racing but new to 8 scale racing. I didn't count my Ofna 9.5 as a real racer. Anyways. First, I read all 130 something pages on the buggy, made sure I built the shocks right, put the orings under the battery box, made sure my endpoints were good and checked everything else that was mentioned in all those pages.
The First weekend out was a trophy race. I ran all three quals flawlessly and qualified 3rd in the A main. Went out and ran the 15 minute A main and finished second. Not a bad first outing with the car. I took the motor out looked over the clutch shoes, looked good. checked eveything else out, looked good.
Today I went to a club race at R/C Madness. I ran a tank or two for practice and tune. Went out to run the first qual and my buggy stops. I thought I flamed but it was still idling. DEAD SERVO. Airtronics 94758 if anyone is curious. Well I didn't bring a backup, so I went to the hobby shop and bought a JR 650M, out it in and setup all the trims and endpoints. I ran the second qual and third qual, made 6th in the A. Went out for the A main and made it about three laps in and my car came to a stop once again. Still running but no throttle input. Other than the strain on the servo when the car is in motion, there is no clearance issues or binding when it is sitting on the bench. I even flex the chassis as much as I can with my hands to see if anything is binding. I do not have any of the aluminum braces in my car, would that help?
I love this car, but I cannot afford to keep it, if its going to keep buring out servos.
Help
-Scott
The First weekend out was a trophy race. I ran all three quals flawlessly and qualified 3rd in the A main. Went out and ran the 15 minute A main and finished second. Not a bad first outing with the car. I took the motor out looked over the clutch shoes, looked good. checked eveything else out, looked good.
Today I went to a club race at R/C Madness. I ran a tank or two for practice and tune. Went out to run the first qual and my buggy stops. I thought I flamed but it was still idling. DEAD SERVO. Airtronics 94758 if anyone is curious. Well I didn't bring a backup, so I went to the hobby shop and bought a JR 650M, out it in and setup all the trims and endpoints. I ran the second qual and third qual, made 6th in the A. Went out for the A main and made it about three laps in and my car came to a stop once again. Still running but no throttle input. Other than the strain on the servo when the car is in motion, there is no clearance issues or binding when it is sitting on the bench. I even flex the chassis as much as I can with my hands to see if anything is binding. I do not have any of the aluminum braces in my car, would that help?
I love this car, but I cannot afford to keep it, if its going to keep buring out servos.
Help
-Scott
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...26/key_/tm.htm
06-18-2007, 05:31 AM
#4153
Do yourself a favor and move away from all cored motor servos. Get coreless servos like the Futaba 9451. They will work forever and the motors do not strain as hard inside.
The Airtronics and cheap JRs will smoke every time. The motors in those servos are just not up to the task.
We have been running the 9451 for over a year with no problems and they are $75. Also, throttle return springs work much better on these servos.
TEX
Good job on your first outing.
The Airtronics and cheap JRs will smoke every time. The motors in those servos are just not up to the task.
We have been running the 9451 for over a year with no problems and they are $75. Also, throttle return springs work much better on these servos.
TEX
Good job on your first outing.
06-18-2007, 05:45 AM
#4154
MANNEDGE-Losa5438, shock standoff http://cgi.ebay.com/L8T-05-LOSI-8T-8...ayphotohosting
Thanks,
Manny
06-18-2007, 07:44 AM
#4155
Ditto on the Futaba 9451 servo for throttle. Works awesome, no problems. I set my endpoints properly, and I'm not even running any "O" rings under my battery box. It's lasted the whole life of the car this far. only 2 gallons, but still no sign of trouble.