4wheeldrive

iTrader: (22)

I got a 17.5 Redline motor in a trade and I find that there is a bit of play when pulling on the rotor. I would say about 1-2 millimeter which seems excessive. Do these motors have that much play in them? Are there shims that are supposed to be in the motor and where should they be?

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

The play is normal. Over shimming can cause binding and hurt performance and possibly cause damage. I own 4 Tekin Redline motors and they all have the same amount if play, and they all run great.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

they are easy enuff to teardown and shim to correct play if excess (either way tight or loose) is detected.

R

biz77

iTrader: (47)

I have a Tekin 13.5 that I too thought had excessive play. A local Tekin sponsored driver put my mind at ease that it is perfectly normal for these motors to have a seemingly large amount of play.

Geezatec

Have 10.5 & 2.5 redlines Sensored. Seems the 2.5 motor has exccessive play then the 10.5 motor. Also brand new in the box.

Also have have 2.5 Sensorless redline motor W R1Pro and it has noplay at all.

Don't know what the spec are. But, Sensored & sensorless run good for my standing and driving style.

Chris-s

Both my 10.5 and 13.5 have just over 1mm play. I too was concerned, but was told it was normal.

Ultramarv

iTrader: (5)

I have a 13.5T Tekin Redline and was wondering what the timing is from factory... I see the hash marls on the end of the can and it is 0 degree, hash, hash, 12 degree, hash and hash...

There is a indentation on the blacke end bell cover and it seems/appers to be lined up with the 1st has mark to the left of the 12 degree mark. Is this 16 degrees of timing???

I'm asking becuase I am setting up my Tekin ESC with my hotwire and was told that you do not want to exceed the combined timing boost and actial timing on the motor past 30 degree's.

Any help and guidence would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks!
Marv

Ultramarv

iTrader: (5)

I have a 13.5T Tekin Redline and was wondering what the timing is from factory... I see the hash marks on the end of the can and it is 0 degree, hash, hash, 12 degree, hash and hash...

There is a indentation on the blackend bell cover and it seems/appers to be lined up with the 1st hash mark to the left of the 12 degree mark. Is this 16 degrees of timing???

I'm asking because I am setting up my Tekin ESC with my hotwire and was told that you do not want to exceed the combined timing boost and actual timing on the motor past 30 degree's.

Any help and guidence would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks!
Marv

Ultramarv

iTrader: (5)

Oops... sorry for the double post!!!

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Marv,

Yes that "tick" is the indicator. They come out of the box set at 12 degrees.

Ultramarv

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info Randy!!!

acerracing

We just released a 4x13x5mm ceramic ball bearing for the Tekin Redline Brushless motors. They have been engineered to produce low noise, low heat and high RPMs.

Skiddins

The Tekin's do seem to come with quite alot of play in the rotor, they also sound like a bag of bolts when they are running but they go well.

I have had a problem where one of the three screws that hold the end bell of the motor can (the end with the pinion) has stripped, I didn't apply much pressure when doing it up but it still went.

It just about seems OK with two of the three screws holding it all together.

Skiddins

4wheeldrive

iTrader: (22)

Well thanx for the responses, the reason I posted the question was because when I installed the motor in my Xray 2007 the pinion set screw sits just about half off the edge of the rotor. Since I noticed the amount of play I realized that the amount of play is what I would need to have the set screw sit flush on the rotor shaft when pulled out. If the play is normal then this may not be the motor for this car. I have a novak 13.5 that has no play at all an it does have washers that are part of the assembly. I did get my Redline used so I'm not sure if there are supposed to be washers from the factory in the motor.

Skiddins

If anything I would shim it 'inwards' so the rotor is as close as possible to the sensors (obviously without touching them etc ), this way you will guarrantee not getting into any sensor related issues whereby they struggle to detect the exact position of the rotor.

Skiddins