Kyosho FW-05R
#4981
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by NiMo
Spacers on throttle - yes that is correct, I used some little red O rings to also reduce the vibration.
Rear diff - not heard of anyone stripping the Machined Steel ones, you sure they are the Machined Steel ones and not the Cast Steel ones?
Rear diff - not heard of anyone stripping the Machined Steel ones, you sure they are the Machined Steel ones and not the Cast Steel ones?
Last edited by coldfusion; 08-10-2005 at 07:12 PM.
#4982
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by JoeGlover
by running a smaller ring gear are you lowering the internal ratio and essentially gearing up?
#4983
Tech Adept
[QUOTE=coldfusion]Dun know if they are cast or machined. But they are def option steel ring gears from kyosho. Is it written on the tag whether cast or machined? will go back and check tonite.
Anyways, i know the manual in the pack says you don't need to shim the steel option gears but after running once i chipped one of the tooth on the small gear and damaged the ring gear at the front. From that experience, i diregarded instructions and decided to add shims to keep the free play at minimum without binding of course and it seems to work for a few meets. This is with two small shims just after the big bearing before the pin and the small gear.
But the last time i serviced the gears i noticed some freeplay even with the two shims at the rear and added another small shim. Not sure if it was binding but after last weekend's race i found out i damaged both the ring and small gear at the rear again. It was razor sharp! Serviced it last night and changed the god damn ring and small gear again for the third time, removed the third shim and left just two shims in there. added some ring gear grease and packed it back. will test it again this weekend. The front seems to only need one shim. If this @#$$ ring gear strips again i'm going to sell the car and get a RRR!!!
Anyways, i know the manual in the pack says you don't need to shim the steel option gears but after running once i chipped one of the tooth on the small gear and damaged the ring gear at the front. From that experience, i diregarded instructions and decided to add shims to keep the free play at minimum without binding of course and it seems to work for a few meets. This is with two small shims just after the big bearing before the pin and the small gear.
But the last time i serviced the gears i noticed some freeplay even with the two shims at the rear and added another small shim. Not sure if it was binding but after last weekend's race i found out i damaged both the ring and small gear at the rear again. It was razor sharp! Serviced it last night and changed the god damn ring and small gear again for the third time, removed the third shim and left just two shims in there. added some ring gear grease and packed it back. will test it again this weekend. The front seems to only need one shim. If this @#$$ ring gear strips again i'm going to sell the car and get a RRR!!!
#4984
Dude, I think you shouldn't use different ring gears (ie; 40T-F, 39T-R), that could be da problem
#4985
Tech Elite
Originally Posted by coldfusion
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If this @#$$ ring gear strips again i'm going to sell the car and get a RRR!!!
If this @#$$ ring gear strips again i'm going to sell the car and get a RRR!!!
#4986
Tech Regular
Well if this is an isolated incident you could be doing something wrong. never had this problem either. My problem is a lot different. I've been experiencing worn screw heads in my kyosho screws. I'm using the Tamiya (*ahem*) mini toolkit to screw them in place. So far I've worn out 3-4 screw heads just adjusting stuff here and there.
#4987
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by BundyMan
Dude, I think you shouldn't use different ring gears (ie; 40T-F, 39T-R), that could be da problem
You got any steel ring gears for sale? 39 & 40?
#4988
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Maybe uh? But then it didn't happen for ahwhile until lately?? Whassup wit tat??
You got any steel ring gears for sale? 39 & 40?
You got any steel ring gears for sale? 39 & 40?
#4989
Tech Master
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Maybe uh? But then it didn't happen for ahwhile until lately?? Whassup wit tat??
You got any steel ring gears for sale? 39 & 40?
You got any steel ring gears for sale? 39 & 40?
#4990
Originally Posted by chumanji
Just wondering what kind of body is everyone running on there FW05.
Rubber - Proto MG ZS
#4991
Coldfusion, I do have a set of little used 39T ring gears and bevel gears that I will sell for US$20 plus shipping if you are interested. They are in good condition. PM me if you are interested.
#4993
Tech Adept
Jeff, thanks for the offer. Will consider and get back to you.
Mgsr - is this an after market solid spool for the FW or self made version? Also is the 40t ring gear machined steel?
Cow - thanks but i don't need another car - would you like to trade your ring gears for an all day pass at Pudu spa?
Mgsr - is this an after market solid spool for the FW or self made version? Also is the 40t ring gear machined steel?
Cow - thanks but i don't need another car - would you like to trade your ring gears for an all day pass at Pudu spa?
#4994
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by tigg
got a big prob with keepin the front dogbones in the car, every time i have a slight tangle it throws a bone. runnin the standard setup, even put o rings on both sides,still didn't work. any tip would be handy. cheers tigg
I also found the cause for it. It turns out if you do a subtrim that is 45 degrees or more on the car's turning angle the dogbone gets exposed on the wheel end. So if you're turning while accelerating this will definitely kick the darn thing out. Try using standard subtrim of 100% because mine was set at 125%. Btw, add the extra oring on the outdrive and not on the wheel end. This will push the dog bone deeper into the wheel. There's ample space in the outdrive and it won't fall off.
#4995
Kyosho's red clutch shoe
Jeffreylin, would you recomend the use of the kyosho red clutch shoe? I am using NSR5 on medium traction asphalt.
Thank's Jeff.
Thank's Jeff.