Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Yeah of course

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Nice!

Servo saver from cyclone 12? (I use this one for my 10R5).

Full Option top deck, have you feel that it a little move on two screws?
Is not stable and for me it is not nice.

I have plan to do new one prototype on 3 screws using new 3 holes and
3x allu parts from cyclone-S (28mm height for 3mm scrws).

In my chassis I use 3racing nitro shock but want to switch to TRF one or
asso tc5
http://abram.eu.org/files/Vilnius_09...g/img_2503.jpg
http://abram.eu.org/files/Vilnius_09...g/img_2566.jpg

:-) pics are from Vilnus race event http://abram.eu.org/files/Vilnius_09.2009/

Regards!

m.

joech

iTrader: (40)

I am running a 4 cells NIMH, RS pro with a 13.5 Duo on a medium size (80 X 40)carpet track and wondering what roll out I should aim for.

Thanks.

obi wun

iTrader: (5)

I am running a vortex 13.5 with a spx esc 1s lipo...the track is around 70x30 carpet ..very technical..could someone give me an idea of where i should be with rollout...

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for posting the pics, there neat Thats cool you are racing in a mall, good exposure for potential new drivers

I'm using a kimbrough #201 servo saver and a futaba S9650 servo.

I'm happy with the full option kit. It was easy to build and so far has worked well. I haven't had the chance to race my car since I did the conversion, but in practice the car worked well and handled similar to when it was 1s. The other day I tried the car on asphalt at my local outdoor track. I used a 10.5 duo2 and the car was very fast....roughly 200ft straightaway so the car was a bullet by the time I needed to turn. Handled well, but I believe for these speeds a different center shock or possibly stiffer spring may be in order. I will be able to report more when I actually race it with 2s on carpet in a couple of weeks.

rcgen

Ran the car this past Saturday on a parking lot technical track. I had problems of the car spinning out on right hand turns. Turned the tweak screws, it help a little I just can't put full power in the middle of the turn. Any suggestions?

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

If your running the kit side springs they could be too stiff for the track grip level. Try backing the springs off or softer rate springs.

LeeH71

Where did you get to race your WGT car? I,ve practiced mine down at RCIS a coupl times, other than that it,s been a shelf queen

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

If its just right handers it might be worth checking your pod or links for binding. I gotta give credit to Bob Stelflue for the method though . . .

I used to just remove the side shock and springs to check for pod tweak/binding. After struggling in Vegas with my WGT and finding it was my pod binding (even though it felt great using my old method) I now use this method every time I wanna check the pod for binding.

1. Remove the four screws holding the lower CF plate to the pod.
2. Remove the two screws holding the aluminum standoffs to the chassis.
3. Swing everything forward so you can work with with just the lower plate.

If there's any resistance or un-smooth movement in the lower plate, loosen the four screws in the links to see if the problem lies there. Lots of times I even pop them off and run a Q-tip doused in motor spray through them till they come out clean to get the gunk out. If backing the screws off most of the way and cleaning them doesn't fix the problem, loosen the two screws holding the center pivot to the chassis (not the two 1.5 mm screws on the top). Work the lower plate around, up, down, even back and forth until the movement is butter smooth and nearly resistance-less. Slowly begin tightening the screws that hold the center pivot to the chassis down 1/8th turn at a time. Check, as you tighten, that the movement of the lower plate remains smooth and unbound. Work the plate around each time to make sure. Once the screws are snug and the lower plate is free again, go back to your link screws and make sure the links are really smooth on the pivots. The guys I talked with said they really just used the screws to make sure the link couldn't pop off, not really to take up any slack. Most fore aft play that you have in the link is tolerable. I prefer to err on the side of loose.

Re-attach everything and see if you still have the issue. I usually use this when I can't seem to get RH the same from side to side despite fresh cut tires and the other obvious culprits.

HTH

Andrew

rcgen

Last weekend was FSEARA (state series) at Superior Hobbies. I took a few laps at RCIS during the last oval race and handled great. Next state race is at Tampa at Adrenaline which has a large group of WGT racers.

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

That is a great tip andrew I may have to talk to you about that when I come down for the classic. These things are crazy

rcgen

Thanks for suggestions. I'll check it later tonight.

rcgen

Looked it over last night and it looks like it was the left side linkage was not as free.

Thanks for the help again.

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

anyone have any new setups for long flowing carpoet tracks with medium traction 100X75 about in length

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

If you go to our website www.mikeshobbyshop.com and click on the set up link there's a set up for just about what you're talking about.