12LikesNew Schumacher KF2
07-29-2016, 08:27 AM - Wikipost
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02-07-2016, 12:52 AM
#706
Tech Rookie
KF2 SE
Hope you like
02-07-2016, 01:51 AM
#707
Tech Apprentice
I understand what you are saying. I'm running the car on a medium grip clay track so not quite the grip level of carpet/astro. With the original chassis fitted I tried what you are saying, this took away rear traction. To cut a long story short, I managed to achieve reasonable traction but the car had a tendency to be unpredictable. The chassis is carbon and has improved the car, lap times prove this. I no everybody are chasing magic numbers, but for what? Also I don't run a top deck so the chassis does flex a little more than the alloy. I'm not trying to prove anything I just wanted to share what I have done because I haven't seen or heard anybody else try it.
For anyone who is interested/curious the chassis is available through Bezerk RC here in Australia. Pictures can be seen on www.bezerk.com.au
Last edited by 71WOK; 02-08-2016 at 01:02 AM. Reason: update
02-09-2016, 07:24 AM
#708
So the car is built, i'm using a Core servo arm - which hole do i use for the ballstud mounting? I have the three options but don't have the original kit arm to compare equivalent length.
I'm transitioning from an RC10 B4.1 FT WC and haven't raced the KF2 at a track yet-what do i have to look forwards too?!
Oh, whilst i'm at it, I'm looking to race on astro so would the alloy rear upper gearbox be more worthwhile than the MM conversion? I'd say so but happy to take sage advice!
I'm transitioning from an RC10 B4.1 FT WC and haven't raced the KF2 at a track yet-what do i have to look forwards too?!
Oh, whilst i'm at it, I'm looking to race on astro so would the alloy rear upper gearbox be more worthwhile than the MM conversion? I'd say so but happy to take sage advice!
Last edited by oldernoob; 02-09-2016 at 07:44 AM. Reason: added Q
02-09-2016, 07:56 AM
#709
Tech Regular
Core/Astro
So the car is built, i'm using a Core servo arm - which hole do i use for the ballstud mounting? I have the three options but don't have the original kit arm to compare equivalent length.
I'm transitioning from an RC10 B4.1 FT WC and haven't raced the KF2 at a track yet-what do i have to look forwards too?!
Oh, whilst i'm at it, I'm looking to race on astro so would the alloy rear upper gearbox be more worthwhile than the MM conversion? I'd say so but happy to take sage advice!
I'm transitioning from an RC10 B4.1 FT WC and haven't raced the KF2 at a track yet-what do i have to look forwards too?!
Oh, whilst i'm at it, I'm looking to race on astro so would the alloy rear upper gearbox be more worthwhile than the MM conversion? I'd say so but happy to take sage advice!
02-09-2016, 05:09 PM
#711
What's the effect of reversing front arms? I noticed on the setup sheets.
02-09-2016, 07:15 PM
#712
With the arms rearward you'll get more weight shifting forward during braking giving you more turn in. However, too much weight shifting forward may cause over steering and possibly losing rear traction causing the rear end to come around.
With the arms forward you'll get less weight shifting forward during braking which helps to maintain rear traction. This may lead to understeer.
If you have a lot of rear traction and need more steering, move the arms rearward. If you have too much steering and need more rear traction in the turns, move the arms forward.
02-10-2016, 05:26 AM
#713
I'm sure someone can explain it in greater detail, but it affects weight distribution.
With the arms rearward you'll get more weight shifting forward during braking giving you more turn in. However, too much weight shifting forward may cause over steering and possibly losing rear traction causing the rear end to come around.
With the arms forward you'll get less weight shifting forward during braking which helps to maintain rear traction. This may lead to understeer.
If you have a lot of rear traction and need more steering, move the arms rearward. If you have too much steering and need more rear traction in the turns, move the arms forward.
With the arms rearward you'll get more weight shifting forward during braking giving you more turn in. However, too much weight shifting forward may cause over steering and possibly losing rear traction causing the rear end to come around.
With the arms forward you'll get less weight shifting forward during braking which helps to maintain rear traction. This may lead to understeer.
If you have a lot of rear traction and need more steering, move the arms rearward. If you have too much steering and need more rear traction in the turns, move the arms forward.
02-10-2016, 08:00 AM
#714
Tech Regular
02-10-2016, 12:38 PM
#715
Tech Regular
Spacer
Correction that is a 1.5mm spacer!
02-14-2016, 05:55 PM
#716
Well first drive (and race) with the KF2 and have to say it's a really nice car. I did zero set up with it at the track. Cracked a rear wishbone and took a chip out of the front bottom plate where the hinge pin sits. The track has a massive triple and most damage was from that - it's astro laid on concrete (!)
There is a lot to come from this car when set up.
There is a lot to come from this car when set up.
02-16-2016, 08:39 AM
#718
Anybody using the rear swaybar?
I saw a few setups with it???
I saw a few setups with it???
02-16-2016, 11:27 AM
#719
Tech Regular
ARB
If you race on Astro Turf or carpet with hig grip the rear ARB is used often! However, on hard packed dirt, clay high grip I myself have found that it does not help! Now on my K2 it's a totally different story.😁
02-21-2016, 07:19 PM
#720
Does anyone else have problems with the ball diff's adjustment bolt (the longer of the two bolts) breaking? I go through one every five minutes or so, regardless of wrecks. The only weird thing I see in the whole procedure is that I have to use a tool to tighten the adjustment bolt. I can't quite get it tight enough by holding the opposite outdrive with my hands. I try to tighten the locking bolt gently as well but it backs out if I don't torque it down. I never had such a problem with the SV and I can't believe there's enough force on the bolt head to shear it off, but it's happened regularly.
My KF2 has some severely mismatched roll couples and upper link lengths (and about 3% more nose weight than anyone else at the track), but it runs well. I just can't keep the diff in one piece.
My KF2 has some severely mismatched roll couples and upper link lengths (and about 3% more nose weight than anyone else at the track), but it runs well. I just can't keep the diff in one piece.