18LikesXray NT1
02-10-2008, 09:05 AM
#2656
sorry, i meant minimum allowable weight...
02-10-2008, 09:35 AM
#2657
1725 grams when the car comes off the track....In other words you want to weigh your car with a smaller set of tires and a empty fuel tank...If your car weighs about 1755 when it goes on the track you should be good but no guarantees.....
02-10-2008, 09:50 AM
#2658
so how does tech work? they only weight the car after the race? there is no tech before the race?
02-10-2008, 02:22 PM
#2660
yeah as soon as your done with your qualifier or main the car goes to tech, where they will dump out any remaining fuel and than weigh your car 1725(roar rules), but the only time you really have to worry about weighing the car is at the bigger races i.e. Capitol Classic, RC Pro Series, I-95 challenge, events like these i've never had my car weighed at a club race....
02-10-2008, 04:15 PM
#2662
02-12-2008, 04:05 PM
#2663
Way to go Paul, Ralph and Barry...........Lets go Team Xray........
02-12-2008, 06:56 PM
#2664
besides the build tips that Xray gives in their manuel, what other tips can be used for a build? like polishing endballs? what type of polish? what technique? sealing the edges of the graphite parts... do i use super glue? what about threadlock? whats the best type and color? and any other tips specific to the NTI would be very helpful..thanks
02-12-2008, 09:27 PM
#2666
When you seal the graphite, use CA glue on a Q-tip. Less mess and allows a much cleaner finish. I usually give two coats - you can give a light sanding in between if you want a really smooth finish.
Also, early kits had very loose threads on the pillow balls and the lock nuts. Some people have used thread lock here as well, or even scored the plastic thread with a small screw driver to give it more bite. Not sure whether it was rectified in later kits but if they feel loose you may want to use a bit more of the blue thread lock.
The only polish that I found useful was all of the hinge pins. Set them into an electric drill and polish with a good metal polish like Autosol. This can help with a smooth suspension arm action - you want the arms to move freely and drop under their own weight without shocks attached.
Also check that when you fit the rollover bar/handle, you do not tweak the upper deck. If you are bothered by this and need to leave the screws a bit loose in order not to tweak it, make sure you use some thread lock or they will vibrate out. During my last rebuild I tightend the handle up - the top plate tweaked a bit but personally I do not think it will translate into any real problems such as you experience with a tweak top deck on an electric car. Others may disagree - just my view.
Good luck.
Also, early kits had very loose threads on the pillow balls and the lock nuts. Some people have used thread lock here as well, or even scored the plastic thread with a small screw driver to give it more bite. Not sure whether it was rectified in later kits but if they feel loose you may want to use a bit more of the blue thread lock.
The only polish that I found useful was all of the hinge pins. Set them into an electric drill and polish with a good metal polish like Autosol. This can help with a smooth suspension arm action - you want the arms to move freely and drop under their own weight without shocks attached.
Also check that when you fit the rollover bar/handle, you do not tweak the upper deck. If you are bothered by this and need to leave the screws a bit loose in order not to tweak it, make sure you use some thread lock or they will vibrate out. During my last rebuild I tightend the handle up - the top plate tweaked a bit but personally I do not think it will translate into any real problems such as you experience with a tweak top deck on an electric car. Others may disagree - just my view.
Good luck.
02-13-2008, 05:13 AM
#2667
When you seal the graphite, use CA glue on a Q-tip. Less mess and allows a much cleaner finish. I usually give two coats - you can give a light sanding in between if you want a really smooth finish.
Also, early kits had very loose threads on the pillow balls and the lock nuts. Some people have used thread lock here as well, or even scored the plastic thread with a small screw driver to give it more bite. Not sure whether it was rectified in later kits but if they feel loose you may want to use a bit more of the blue thread lock.
The only polish that I found useful was all of the hinge pins. Set them into an electric drill and polish with a good metal polish like Autosol. This can help with a smooth suspension arm action - you want the arms to move freely and drop under their own weight without shocks attached.
Also check that when you fit the rollover bar/handle, you do not tweak the upper deck. If you are bothered by this and need to leave the screws a bit loose in order not to tweak it, make sure you use some thread lock or they will vibrate out. During my last rebuild I tightend the handle up - the top plate tweaked a bit but personally I do not think it will translate into any real problems such as you experience with a tweak top deck on an electric car. Others may disagree - just my view.
Good luck.
Also, early kits had very loose threads on the pillow balls and the lock nuts. Some people have used thread lock here as well, or even scored the plastic thread with a small screw driver to give it more bite. Not sure whether it was rectified in later kits but if they feel loose you may want to use a bit more of the blue thread lock.
The only polish that I found useful was all of the hinge pins. Set them into an electric drill and polish with a good metal polish like Autosol. This can help with a smooth suspension arm action - you want the arms to move freely and drop under their own weight without shocks attached.
Also check that when you fit the rollover bar/handle, you do not tweak the upper deck. If you are bothered by this and need to leave the screws a bit loose in order not to tweak it, make sure you use some thread lock or they will vibrate out. During my last rebuild I tightend the handle up - the top plate tweaked a bit but personally I do not think it will translate into any real problems such as you experience with a tweak top deck on an electric car. Others may disagree - just my view.
Good luck.
i useually glue the edges as well but i couldn't be bothered this time around, so i just painted them black with fascolour.
goes together well, the front lower arms have a bit of forward/back movement, otherwise nice. I lowered my tank 3.6mm as i amusing a lipo, i've added extra weight on the batteyr tray though.
02-14-2008, 02:57 PM
#2668
way to go ralph laying it down and doing a 23 5:10. Now sitting up around 4 or 5 in the a-main..
02-16-2008, 03:06 AM
#2669
i just built a set of alloy nt1 shocks, they are only 2 grams heavier than the plastic versions, so if you are using the plastic versions thinking they will be a sizable weight reduction you are wrong.
also i installed a lipo in my car and titanium pivot balls, it is some 100 grams under weight
damn i didn't know they were this light!
does anyone make a 100gram battery tray?
...serious? anyone?
also the hard bumper is some 25 grams heavier than the stocky
also i installed a lipo in my car and titanium pivot balls, it is some 100 grams under weight
damn i didn't know they were this light!does anyone make a 100gram battery tray?
...serious? anyone?also the hard bumper is some 25 grams heavier than the stocky
Last edited by TomB; 02-16-2008 at 03:16 AM.
02-16-2008, 03:36 AM
#2670
YBSlow makes a brass battery tray that is 60 grams....I had to add 106grams to my car, and that was with a regular battery pack.