XRated SCT

I'm getting ready to go pick up my kit at my LHS when they open and was wondering if I'll be set assembling it w/ this hex driver set? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FShgMgod0CwA7g

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Alum rear hubs really are only needed for racing in the cold. We have found the plastic rear hubs do a fine job in most normal conditions.

The alum rear diff bearing supports are still an option part. We ran plastic inserts in the rear for a long time. Alum supports the rear diff a little better and if shimmed properly maintain the mesh a little better. They are offered as poeple asked for them not that they were really needed.

I believe one full turn is ~1mm. Ryan can confirm this. I keep forgetting that adjustment between the 22 and SCTE. I am usually good about that stuff but for some reason this stat is not sticking. I think I am finally getting old!

Front arms. "full droop" is technically limited by the shocks. Basically all we are saying is let the shocks bottom out to set droop instead of using the chassis droop screws. The longer you make the shocks (unscrew lower eyelet) the more droop you will get until the arms then hit the chassis again.

Swaybars. Flush is a good starting point but I always adjust mine to make sure the bar is not binding the suspension which you have to test without the shocks on the car. Check this front and back. Also the small set screws that take the slop out of the swaybars on the bulkhead make sure those are not tight. They are just to take out play and not restrict the movement of the swaybars.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Every full turn on the SCTE shock ends should equal .6mm.

So we run an extra .6mm on the rear and 1.2mm on the front.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

These were just some thoughts on my build that I PM'd to a friend. Some of these might have been mentioned before, but some might not:

- use the little packet of brown grease on the outdrives when you build the diffs - the manual calls for black grease but use the brown stuff

- pre thread the diff screws before building your diffs as the holes are pretty tight

- the front camber rod ends will impact the sway bar "ball" end when using the lower outside camber holes - you'll need to adjust the position of the sway bar ball to clearance it

- you can't screw in the front triangle bulkhead piece after installing the body mounts so leave the body mount off when installing the front clip and install it after

- same with the front torque rod - attach it to the bulkhead brace before screwing the brace to the steering posts

- build the center drive shafts and attach to pinion before closing up the transmission case so you can eliminate play between the pinion and the Ring gears

- lock Tite the aluminum motor mount to chassis screws - not indicated in manual

bladeys

iTrader: (17)

I need to clarify this. Use the shock end adjustment for droop? If so what is the total shock extension measurement? Thanks

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

ok, so of course i have one of the first kits and the bottom caps for the shocks are tight as explained and dont like it....do i call HH to get something done about this or whats the current status on this? Never had a lower cap for the shock thread this hard and i even had pliers with and without a rag so i didnt ruin them and they only go on about 1/2 way

XRated SCT

Seems like there's going to be a lot of trouble building my first kit, not very happy about that but what can you do, I just remembered I need to pick up a pinion gear, mod1 right and what's a good one to get for my 2.0 tekin pro4 4600kv setup on 2s lipo

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

You do not limit droop with the current setup for off road use. You actually give it extra droop by unscrewing the shock ends.

The lower caps are plastic and yes, you will mar them some by screwing them on but that does not affect performance at all as long as you dont crush them so bad you ruin the center hole. We have fixed the tool and new caps should be here shortly for all that want them. you can contact CS but I would wait until these corrected units come in.

If you grab the lower cap after it is threaded on by hand as far as you can get it on the lip that the shock boot normally goes over and hold straight, you can use a shock cap and the top cap tool and slowly thread the bottom cap up all the way. this is all explained in the build tips.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

People are giving tips that they have figured might help others. There is only one minor issue and that is the bottom caps which yuo can get on with a little effort. The build is great from what I have been told by most.

Blown up

iTrader: (10)

I think I saw a pic a few pages back w/KHeadz motor/diff mounts on a 2.0. Obviously 2.0 has the same mounts as the 1.0? You guys think these are a good upgrade?

XRated SCT

I understand it just seems like there's so much but maybe I'm over thinking it, well I'm about to leave hopefully my LHS has some mod 1 pinions, what's a good range I was thinking maybe 15-18

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

People are just trying to be helpful is all.

That depends on your motor, most are in the range of 12-15 I would say.

XRated SCT

Yea I know and I'm glad people pointed out thing to give us others a heads up
I'll be running the pro 4 4600kv but alright thanks I'll probably pick up 2or3 pinions

Blown up

iTrader: (10)

Also, Anyone have an inside on pro4HD's release? I'm undecided on a motor for this truck. I've been running the 4000pro4 in a Rango and like it for indoor but the 2.0 being a little heavier, I think I want more power but would like to keep it smooth. pro4 4600, HW4700 4XS 4800 or 7200, SC411? Bad words for any of these?

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

Ok makes sense now i was thinking you were giving the droop screw a full turn in from full droop.