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Old 05-31-2006, 10:04 PM
  #391  
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
Were you using the stock universals?
yeb.maybe I got a bad patch, thinking about getting new out drives, waiting to see if any body else has had bad results too before jumping back into the fire with them again.
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Old 05-31-2006, 11:11 PM
  #392  
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Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Also, have you tried a Front Differential??
I tried the front differential last weekend and was very pleased with the result. I found with the atomic locked diff I was getting to much push.
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:05 AM
  #393  
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This week has been very busy for me and I couldn't really spend as much time on it as I wanted to, but here is the published V1RRR UEX Version 0.1 Draft specification as promised.

http://www.nitrokb.com/vonerrr/V1RRR....1%20Draft.pdf

Any comments, suggestions, questions or corrections are greatly appreciated. I apologize in advance for any errors or ommissions. I know I need a table of contents and a one page parts listing in the back, but it's already 2:00 am and I have another busy day ahead of me today. I'll have more time to clean it up and work on it next week.

Thanks guys!
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:22 AM
  #394  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
This week has been very busy for me and I couldn't really spend as much time on it as I wanted to, but here is the published V1RRR UEX Version 0.1 Draft specification as promised.

http://www.nitrokb.com/vonerrr/V1RRR....1%20Draft.pdf

Any comments, suggestions, questions or corrections are greatly appreciated. I apologize in advance for any errors or ommissions. I know I need a table of contents and a one page parts listing in the back, but it's already 2:00 am and I have another busy day ahead of me today. I'll have more time to clean it up and work on it next week.

Thanks guys!

Hi,

I saw you mentioned in the knowledge base that:

May 5, 2006: What is the #1 must have upgrade for the V-ONE RRR? It's the Kyosho Special Main 3T/7075 Chassis for the V-ONE RRR (VZW214)

How does this chassis compare to the one from K-Factory?

I like the K-Factory design simply because it reduces the chance of your belt being popped due to small pebbles.

Looking forward to your comments.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:23 AM
  #395  
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rmdhawaii, looks good. Extremly helpful for choosing what to try next.
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Old 06-01-2006, 07:10 AM
  #396  
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Additions needed are:

Ceramic Bearings
Different screw sets (Hex and Titanium)
Rear hex outdrives with 2mm offset
Rear camber links with bearings (included as part of kit but need the bearings)
East rear shock mounts
Camber link plates

Plus many others.

I like the doc and will be very usefull when completed

Cheers
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Old 06-01-2006, 08:22 AM
  #397  
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rmdhawaii,

nice! good job!
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:25 AM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Hi,

I saw you mentioned in the knowledge base that:

May 5, 2006: What is the #1 must have upgrade for the V-ONE RRR? It's the Kyosho Special Main 3T/7075 Chassis for the V-ONE RRR (VZW214)

How does this chassis compare to the one from K-Factory?

I like the K-Factory design simply because it reduces the chance of your belt being popped due to small pebbles.

Looking forward to your comments.
I think you're the first person that I've come across that has the K Factory chassis. It was hanging in my LHS and I was really tempted to buy it, but since no one else here was running it, I decided against it.

Everyone else seems to have chosen the VZW214. It's suppose to really improve the handling of the car. I'll be using it for the first time this weekend, but because I'm bolting on the entire Ultimate Edition package, it's going to be hard for me to discern exactly what affect that chassis has on handling.

Other than pebble protection, do you think the K Factory chassis has improved the handling of your car at all? At the Web site, it says that "...it's lightweight & low CG design help your car follow the exact racing line want." Is that true? Do you think your driving has improved with it?

It would be great if I had two duplicate stock WCEs just to do testing with, but that won't happen anytime soon. I've told motorman2 to go tell K Factory to provide some side-by-side comparison results, but I don't think that's going to happen anytime soon either.
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:28 AM
  #399  
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Originally Posted by mcsquish
rmdhawaii, looks good. Extremly helpful for choosing what to try next.
Thanks! Three parts that you submitted are in there, so my thanks to you as well. I'll be running the K Factory one-way this weekend.
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:31 AM
  #400  
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Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Additions needed are:

Ceramic Bearings
Different screw sets (Hex and Titanium)
Rear hex outdrives with 2mm offset
Rear camber links with bearings (included as part of kit but need the bearings)
East rear shock mounts
Camber link plates

Plus many others.

I like the doc and will be very usefull when completed

Cheers
Rear camber links with bearings (included as part of kit but need the bearings)???

You got a picture of this?
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:32 AM
  #401  
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Originally Posted by fritzD
rmdhawaii,

nice! good job!
Thanks! That mini-cooper body isn't sitting on your V1RRR is it?
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:45 AM
  #402  
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On the topic of chassis, something I keep forgetting to bring up....

If you use a "thicker" chassis then stock, if the chassis isn't milled out, you are changing the natural rollcenter of the car. The best way to have a thicker chassis is when the chassis is milled out where the bulkheads sit so the rollcenter doesn't change. Don't know if there is such thing out there with my limited research.

When I was looking at chassis option, the Skyline chassis was thicker, cheaper but the K-team SP chassis naturally is stiffer because of the lack of batts opening and yet still retain the car's natural rollcenter.

Dom
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:54 AM
  #403  
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Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
On the topic of chassis, something I keep forgetting to bring up....

If you use a "thicker" chassis then stock, if the chassis isn't milled out, you are changing the natural rollcenter of the car. The best way to have a thicker chassis is when the chassis is milled out where the bulkheads sit so the rollcenter doesn't change. Don't know if there is such thing out there with my limited research.

When I was looking at chassis option, the Skyline chassis was thicker, cheaper but the K-team SP chassis naturally is stiffer because of the lack of batts opening and yet still retain the car's natural rollcenter.

Dom
The word I got from the forum, is that any V-ONE RRR 4mm chassis is a definite "do not buy".

The MTX-4 optional 4mm chassis is milled and the MTX-4 guys seem to be happy with it.

V1-RRR-WC: How thick is the K Factory chassis?
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Old 06-01-2006, 12:04 PM
  #404  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
This week has been very busy for me and I couldn't really spend as much time on it as I wanted to, but here is the published V1RRR UEX Version 0.1 Draft specification as promised.

http://www.nitrokb.com/vonerrr/V1RRR....1%20Draft.pdf

Any comments, suggestions, questions or corrections are greatly appreciated. I apologize in advance for any errors or ommissions. I know I need a table of contents and a one page parts listing in the back, but it's already 2:00 am and I have another busy day ahead of me today. I'll have more time to clean it up and work on it next week.

Thanks guys!
RMDHAWAII,

If this was a thesis for your doctorate, I would have to give you an A for the work completed so far
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Old 06-01-2006, 12:36 PM
  #405  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I think you're the first person that I've come across that has the K Factory chassis. It was hanging in my LHS and I was really tempted to buy it, but since no one else here was running it, I decided against it.

Everyone else seems to have chosen the VZW214. It's suppose to really improve the handling of the car. I'll be using it for the first time this weekend, but because I'm bolting on the entire Ultimate Edition package, it's going to be hard for me to discern exactly what affect that chassis has on handling.

Other than pebble protection, do you think the K Factory chassis has improved the handling of your car at all? At the Web site, it says that "...it's lightweight & low CG design help your car follow the exact racing line want." Is that true? Do you think your driving has improved with it?

It would be great if I had two duplicate stock WCEs just to do testing with, but that won't happen anytime soon. I've told motorman2 to go tell K Factory to provide some side-by-side comparison results, but I don't think that's going to happen anytime soon either.
Rainer I used the K-factory at the W-nats......Good chassis...but for high traction track I would go with the shimo....
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