Originally Posted by minidriver

OK folks, just trying to gauge interest here, but ....

My home track, S&N Trackside, had a "Rubber Tire Stock Nationals" race here a few weeks ago. Unique format, with three qualifiers, then the top 32 qualifiers have 6 races of heads up racing, best four races count by finishing order - two day Sat/Sun event. Those top 32 are randomly assigned to their 6 heads up, on the tone, races - you race with a variety of people, all heads up. Those who don't make the top 32 go to a an "open" class of standard triple A, double B format, C and lower format. You wind up with two champions - the "expert 32" champ and the "open" winner. One and only one class - stock rubber tired touring cars. CO27 motors and handout tires only. Lots of fun. Every one ends up with lots of racing: experts race 9 times, the "opens" have 7-8 runs each over the weekend of racing.

As I was there participating and watching the action, I thought - hey maybe this format would work for a BIG Mini only race. Mini's are the most popular TCS class by far. My thought is: Have this format race in very late fall, early winter, in that awful down time between TCS Nationals in August and before TCS officially starts in February/March, when all the TCS guys are just itching to get started on a new season. Heck, maybe we could try and hold it at about the same time the TCS Nationals winner is enjoying his trip to Japan. Mini only event - any version M03, or M04M, running 60D series Tamiya tires. Touring cars need not apply!

How many people might be interested in coming up to Milwaukee to do this? If we could get a promised turnout of greater than 60 (like Memphis TCS did with their minis this past weekend) we might be able to make this happen. Great facility, the best announcer/host in RC - Scotty Ernst. TCS rules would apply. There would be a common grab box of new motors for the event, and you would use one motor one round, then eveyone puts the motors back in the box and grabs blind again for the next round, and so on. This grab box approach means you would not be facing that 1 in 100 super motor that some guys are able to find - level motor playing field. Moderate entry fee. Bring (or preferably buy here - support your local hobby shop/raceway) your own choice of tires, NIMH batteries.

Please let me know if you would like to see this happen and would attend.

(This subject was originally posted in the TCS Racing thread just a couple of days ago, but I looking to guage interest from all Tamiya Mini drivers, so have repeated it here. I hope no one is offended by the cross posting. We already have a number of replies in the TCS Racing Thread, so see what others are already thinking.)

Originally Posted by dragracer72nova

How many days wouldthe race be?
I would be interested!
Dave

Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34

guys, can anyone tell me what's wrong with my kit? I have this m03R, and there is this sound (when you turn, "not steer ha", the front wheels without the motor), it's like there's a stone that is trap inside the gear box but I cleaned and checked it, there is no problem or any, I've also checked the axles, dogbones, outdrive, etc, there is also nothing... what could have been causing the annoying sound?

this just happened when I tried it to run on the dirt (rally)... but before that, I don't hear anything, it just so happens when I tried running it on the dirt...

Originally Posted by K_Spec_RC

My guess is its the servo. My brother had the same issue with his. I replaced the servo and it's fine now.

Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34

but sir the servo is new... but will try removing it for awhile and see if it will still going to make the annoying sound

thanks...

Originally Posted by Lambatz

guys... i'm from indonesia n i'm new in this rc things, now i'm using tamiya M chassis. i have problems to keep my batteries (NiMh) at optimal performance, is there any way to take care those batteries before n after being used? i mean when i have to charge n discharge them?

thank you for the help.....

Originally Posted by Customworksking

count me in + 1 or 2 more 100%

Originally Posted by A-Ko

If you use the NiMH every week;
After every race or use discharge them to .9v a cell or 5.4v (.9v X 6 cells = 5.4v) for the pack.

If you don't use them 3 weeks or longer;
Fully charge them for longer periods of time.
If you use them again charge and discharge at 20 amps to 5.4v two or three times and you should be good to go. With NiMH make sure they rest for 1/2 hour or more between charges or cycles. If you use a fan only cool them when you are discharging.

Originally Posted by Core Creations

So it's when the steering is at full lock in one direction or the other? Do you have universals or the stock dog bones? I would think if you have dog bones that it's the joint being overextended....to much throw, or maybe the o-rings that should be inbetween the dogbone and the diff outdrives are not there.

Originally Posted by Lambatz

Thank you for the information.

i have one more thing to ask, i'm using orion advanced charging system and it doesn't have cut off option (i can't setting up to stop at .9v) for discharging, is it automatically setting up it self when i choose battery profile from the menu?

thanks again