Hot Bodies Cyclone
#6872
Tech Regular
just want some advice how to generate more roll on turn..? which one will i adjust..pivot block spacers? of camber link spacer.?this is for asphalt.
#6874
Tech Regular
cause im runnin a oneway right now. and i just want it to roll through the corners. i got 1.5 shims on pivot block and 3mm on front camber link.and 1mm on rear...(i dont have .5mm interval shim ) how a bout 2 mm shims on the block?
if only my printer is colorsi wanted to print blank setup sheet to help me out with changes.but sad to say my printer isnt.
if only my printer is colorsi wanted to print blank setup sheet to help me out with changes.but sad to say my printer isnt.
#6876
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
I have the possibility of having either some thicker aluminum or stainless cvd's machined....is there any other interest, especially the guys running spools?? Naturally, this is for the front end but I have something in mind like what Specialized R/C did for the Corally RDX or something along the lines of the old thicker blue ones AE came out for the TC3.
Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
#6877
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Originally Posted by ASM
I have the possibility of having either some thicker aluminum or stainless cvd's machined....is there any other interest, especially the guys running spools?? Naturally, this is for the front end but I have something in mind like what Specialized R/C did for the Corally RDX or something along the lines of the old thicker blue ones AE came out for the TC3.
Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
#6878
or you can just get MIP CVD's from the moorespeed kit
#6880
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
scott you can run the pro4 cvds but you need to use a thinner axle bearing on the inside of the hub (pro4 cvds are a little longer) but it works like a charm
#6883
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
i need some help with tweak...
i just got the mip twaek system and it says that my battery side is too light. how can this be? i have to push the front shock collar down alot to equal the tweak in the front. anyone else's setup been this far off. i use a NOVAK gts ecs (0.75g), sanwa 94357 servo (2g)and a sanwa 93836 micro receiver (1g), and an epic x stock motor(?g). is it normal for all the elctronics to weigh more than the battery? to which side do you guy shave to mount weights to balance your chassis?- i'm speaking of ni-mh, not lipo.
i just got the mip twaek system and it says that my battery side is too light. how can this be? i have to push the front shock collar down alot to equal the tweak in the front. anyone else's setup been this far off. i use a NOVAK gts ecs (0.75g), sanwa 94357 servo (2g)and a sanwa 93836 micro receiver (1g), and an epic x stock motor(?g). is it normal for all the elctronics to weigh more than the battery? to which side do you guy shave to mount weights to balance your chassis?- i'm speaking of ni-mh, not lipo.
#6884
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
i need some help with tweak...
i just got the mip twaek system and it says that my battery side is too light. how can this be? i have to push the front shock collar down alot to equal the tweak in the front. anyone else's setup been this far off. i use a NOVAK gts ecs (0.75g), sanwa 94357 servo (2g)and a sanwa 93836 micro receiver (1g), and an epic x stock motor(?g). is it normal for all the elctronics to weigh more than the battery? to which side do you guy shave to mount weights to balance your chassis?- i'm speaking of ni-mh, not lipo.
i just got the mip twaek system and it says that my battery side is too light. how can this be? i have to push the front shock collar down alot to equal the tweak in the front. anyone else's setup been this far off. i use a NOVAK gts ecs (0.75g), sanwa 94357 servo (2g)and a sanwa 93836 micro receiver (1g), and an epic x stock motor(?g). is it normal for all the elctronics to weigh more than the battery? to which side do you guy shave to mount weights to balance your chassis?- i'm speaking of ni-mh, not lipo.
Before you start measuring tweak, is your chassis flat? You can use your tweak station to confirm this.
First, remove the tires and place the car on 10mm Hudy blocks to lift the chassis off the tweak bars of the Station. If it’s in error, then you’ll need to get a little violent with the chassis, as it may take some twisting of the chassis to get it flat however this gives you a good starting point.
Next,
Is everything the same length? (shock shafts, spring collars, springs)
If so, bolt on a set of “Set-up wheels” (preferable 63mm dia) then put the car on the Station with one Hudy block under the rear of the car. Check the bubble at the front to see if the front suspension is out?
If so, then it maybe just the positioning of the bulkheads, shock tower, and/or pivot blocks that are causing this. It’s a common misconception that countersunk screws will self centre. This is wrong and the tweak maybe caused by the misalignment of these suspension components.
If you still have Tweak, then if you can, try and replace components one at a time (with a friend's car, if you can).
Once the front end is fix, remove the Hudy block from the rear and repeat the exercise.
Hope this helps.
Peter
#6885
Tech Initiate
help explain please ,what are we will gain an advantage from this setting?
1 mm. under front arm mount / 1.5 mm.under rear arm mount [ at the front ]
1 mm. under front arm mount / 1.5 mm.under rear arm mount [ at the rear ]
or lower front arm mount / higher rear arm mount
1 mm. under front arm mount / 1.5 mm.under rear arm mount [ at the front ]
1 mm. under front arm mount / 1.5 mm.under rear arm mount [ at the rear ]
or lower front arm mount / higher rear arm mount