coloring your gas?
#1
coloring your gas?
i just got a gallon of this gas: http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=4092
and it looks like water... and its also VERY hard to tell how much gas i have just by looking at my gas tank... cuz its clear.
i remember reading somewhere that you can add a few drops of food coloring, i was wondering if this is safe, and how many drops should i use per litre?
also, when should you take the temp of your engine, after 1 full tank of driving? 2 tanks?
and it looks like water... and its also VERY hard to tell how much gas i have just by looking at my gas tank... cuz its clear.
i remember reading somewhere that you can add a few drops of food coloring, i was wondering if this is safe, and how many drops should i use per litre?
also, when should you take the temp of your engine, after 1 full tank of driving? 2 tanks?
#3
#5
#7
i was thinking red... but black sounds like a good idea too.
thanks
edit: k, i just drove my car around, it was in the cold and wind. i drove 2 tanks through it, not quite as hard as a racer would, but i drove it like normal.
my questions are:
1. it was running good, then it started bogging out, so i opened the HSN about 1/4 turn, then it ran fine, then it was bogging out again... so i checked on it and noticed it wasnt where i had set it before, i think it rattled itself closes a little bit? is that possible? so i richened it anohter 1/4 turn and it ran fine. but i was letting a friend or 2 try it, and sometimes it completely died out on them, i dont know if it was the engine fault or if they were accelerating way too fast (their fault)
2. i took the temp after tank 2 and the temp was only 110 farenheight... i let it sit for about 45 seconds by accident in the cold/wind before i checked, so i can imagine it cooled off, but how do i increase my engine temps? (not my header temps, i burnt my damn finger on it!! again!!!!) i heard engine temps should be near 220 F?? is it just because im running in the cold wind/ mud/ ice?
thanks.
Last edited by Mugen MBX-5; 02-16-2008 at 01:57 PM.
#8
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Cold weather tuning
Other people are welcome to correct me if im wrong, but I believe that you are supposed to tune to performance, not temp in the cold weather.
I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.
So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.
I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.
So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.
#9
Other people are welcome to correct me if im wrong, but I believe that you are supposed to tune to performance, not temp in the cold weather.
I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.
So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.
I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.
So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.
thanks
#10
all right, awesome thanks, thats exactly what i was looking for.
i was thinking red... but black sounds like a good idea too.
thanks
edit: k, i just drove my car around, it was in the cold and wind. i drove 2 tanks through it, not quite as hard as a racer would, but i drove it like normal.
my questions are:
1. it was running good, then it started bogging out, so i opened the HSN about 1/4 turn, then it ran fine, then it was bogging out again... so i checked on it and noticed it wasnt where i had set it before, i think it rattled itself closes a little bit? is that possible? so i richened it anohter 1/4 turn and it ran fine. but i was letting a friend or 2 try it, and sometimes it completely died out on them, i dont know if it was the engine fault or if they were accelerating way too fast (their fault)
2. i took the temp after tank 2 and the temp was only 110 farenheight... i let it sit for about 45 seconds by accident in the cold/wind before i checked, so i can imagine it cooled off, but how do i increase my engine temps? (not my header temps, i burnt my damn finger on it!! again!!!!) i heard engine temps should be near 220 F?? is it just because im running in the cold wind/ mud/ ice?
thanks.
i was thinking red... but black sounds like a good idea too.
thanks
edit: k, i just drove my car around, it was in the cold and wind. i drove 2 tanks through it, not quite as hard as a racer would, but i drove it like normal.
my questions are:
1. it was running good, then it started bogging out, so i opened the HSN about 1/4 turn, then it ran fine, then it was bogging out again... so i checked on it and noticed it wasnt where i had set it before, i think it rattled itself closes a little bit? is that possible? so i richened it anohter 1/4 turn and it ran fine. but i was letting a friend or 2 try it, and sometimes it completely died out on them, i dont know if it was the engine fault or if they were accelerating way too fast (their fault)
2. i took the temp after tank 2 and the temp was only 110 farenheight... i let it sit for about 45 seconds by accident in the cold/wind before i checked, so i can imagine it cooled off, but how do i increase my engine temps? (not my header temps, i burnt my damn finger on it!! again!!!!) i heard engine temps should be near 220 F?? is it just because im running in the cold wind/ mud/ ice?
thanks.
MM
www.massivemods.com
#11
Your head temps in cold weather will be considerably less because of ambient temp. Sounds to me like you have a lot of shims under your head button.. Try removing .1 to .2 so that you have a total of .4 to .5 head shimming. This will give you a cooler header and hotter head. But as mentioned tune for performance not temps. If you cant keep it hot enough wrap alfoil round the head ...
MM
www.massivemods.com
MM
www.massivemods.com
i have no idea what shims are, what they do, how to remove them, how to tell how many i have..
what would be the problem if sometimes when i start it, i let it idle for about 20 seconds, then i accelerate... sometimes quite fast, and it dies. is it just because i need to idle it for a bit longer, or is it not getting enough gas? other than that it runs perfectly, i love my lrp .28... almost too much power, damn hard to control on ice, grass, cement, gravel.. etc.
#12
Tech Rookie
correct me if im wrong but your idle could be set to low, you should have a idle knob on your radio and twist that a little higher and then see if it dies when accelerating, if it does come back
#13
i think it was just the way my friend was driving it... it only seemed to happen to one friend (the idiot of the group).... i drove it today and it was running fine. i think what happened is i was curious one day so i took my HSN needle all the way out to see how it worked, and when i put it back it it wasnt quite as tight as before.. and i think it kinda rattled it self closed about 1/4 turn, i opened it a little and it seemed to solve the problem.
ps: hondarules
#14
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
If your HSN is rattling back and forth, that's a very bad thing, lol! That can be detrimental to a motor, supposed it rattles inward more and more, that's leaning it out as your run it... And we all know that can be a bad thing!
If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...
If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...
#15
If your HSN is rattling back and forth, that's a very bad thing, lol! That can be detrimental to a motor, supposed it rattles inward more and more, that's leaning it out as your run it... And we all know that can be a bad thing!
If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...
If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...