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-   -   coloring your gas? (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/206117-coloring-your-gas.html)

Mugen MBX-5 02-15-2008 04:55 PM

coloring your gas?
 
i just got a gallon of this gas: http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=4092

and it looks like water... and its also VERY hard to tell how much gas i have just by looking at my gas tank... cuz its clear.

i remember reading somewhere that you can add a few drops of food coloring, i was wondering if this is safe, and how many drops should i use per litre?

also, when should you take the temp of your engine, after 1 full tank of driving? 2 tanks?

Tree 02-15-2008 06:19 PM

I also read that you can use food coloring. They say to use only a couple of drops.

Mugen MBX-5 02-15-2008 06:58 PM


Originally Posted by Tree (Post 4181381)
I also read that you can use food coloring. They say to use only a couple of drops.

whos "they"?

and how much is a couple drops? 2? 10?

it wont wreck anything if i were to do that?

annie_himself 02-15-2008 09:01 PM


Originally Posted by Mugen MBX-5 (Post 4181468)
whos "they"?

and how much is a couple drops? 2? 10?

it wont wreck anything if i were to do that?

A couple isn't 10. A couple by definition is 2, try two.

Mugen MBX-5 02-15-2008 10:33 PM


Originally Posted by annie_himself (Post 4181744)
A couple isn't 10. A couple by definition is 2, try two.

i was just saying a few random numbers to get the point across... ill try two.

/thread

looper 02-15-2008 10:57 PM

2-3 drops will color a gallon nicely..

for a while i dyed my fuel black.. took 7 drops total of 3 different colors for the whole gallon

Mugen MBX-5 02-16-2008 12:02 PM


Originally Posted by looper (Post 4181952)
2-3 drops will color a gallon nicely..

for a while i dyed my fuel black.. took 7 drops total of 3 different colors for the whole gallon

all right, awesome thanks, thats exactly what i was looking for.

i was thinking red... but black sounds like a good idea too.

thanks



edit: k, i just drove my car around, it was in the cold and wind. i drove 2 tanks through it, not quite as hard as a racer would, but i drove it like normal.

my questions are:

1. it was running good, then it started bogging out, so i opened the HSN about 1/4 turn, then it ran fine, then it was bogging out again... so i checked on it and noticed it wasnt where i had set it before, i think it rattled itself closes a little bit? is that possible? so i richened it anohter 1/4 turn and it ran fine. but i was letting a friend or 2 try it, and sometimes it completely died out on them, i dont know if it was the engine fault or if they were accelerating way too fast (their fault)

2. i took the temp after tank 2 and the temp was only 110 farenheight... i let it sit for about 45 seconds by accident in the cold/wind before i checked, so i can imagine it cooled off, but how do i increase my engine temps? (not my header temps, i burnt my damn finger on it!! again!!!!) i heard engine temps should be near 220 F?? is it just because im running in the cold wind/ mud/ ice?

thanks.

Cory B 02-16-2008 06:01 PM

Cold weather tuning
 
Other people are welcome to correct me if im wrong, but I believe that you are supposed to tune to performance, not temp in the cold weather.

I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.

So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.

Mugen MBX-5 02-17-2008 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by Cory B (Post 4183586)
Other people are welcome to correct me if im wrong, but I believe that you are supposed to tune to performance, not temp in the cold weather.

I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.

So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.

ok cool, its just because ive temp tested my engine a few times and its always beloe 150.. so i figured it was really tuned wrong, but it runs fine with the odd "bog out" once in a while.

thanks

MassiveMods 02-17-2008 02:46 PM


Originally Posted by Mugen MBX-5 (Post 4183003)
all right, awesome thanks, thats exactly what i was looking for.

i was thinking red... but black sounds like a good idea too.

thanks



edit: k, i just drove my car around, it was in the cold and wind. i drove 2 tanks through it, not quite as hard as a racer would, but i drove it like normal.

my questions are:

1. it was running good, then it started bogging out, so i opened the HSN about 1/4 turn, then it ran fine, then it was bogging out again... so i checked on it and noticed it wasnt where i had set it before, i think it rattled itself closes a little bit? is that possible? so i richened it anohter 1/4 turn and it ran fine. but i was letting a friend or 2 try it, and sometimes it completely died out on them, i dont know if it was the engine fault or if they were accelerating way too fast (their fault)

2. i took the temp after tank 2 and the temp was only 110 farenheight... i let it sit for about 45 seconds by accident in the cold/wind before i checked, so i can imagine it cooled off, but how do i increase my engine temps? (not my header temps, i burnt my damn finger on it!! again!!!!) i heard engine temps should be near 220 F?? is it just because im running in the cold wind/ mud/ ice?

thanks.

Your head temps in cold weather will be considerably less because of ambient temp. Sounds to me like you have a lot of shims under your head button.. Try removing .1 to .2 so that you have a total of .4 to .5 head shimming. This will give you a cooler header and hotter head. But as mentioned tune for performance not temps. If you cant keep it hot enough wrap alfoil round the head ...

MM

www.massivemods.com

Mugen MBX-5 02-17-2008 04:21 PM


Originally Posted by MassiveMods (Post 4185527)
Your head temps in cold weather will be considerably less because of ambient temp. Sounds to me like you have a lot of shims under your head button.. Try removing .1 to .2 so that you have a total of .4 to .5 head shimming. This will give you a cooler header and hotter head. But as mentioned tune for performance not temps. If you cant keep it hot enough wrap alfoil round the head ...

MM

www.massivemods.com

allright, thats what i thought, just wanted to make sure.

i have no idea what shims are, what they do, how to remove them, how to tell how many i have..

what would be the problem if sometimes when i start it, i let it idle for about 20 seconds, then i accelerate... sometimes quite fast, and it dies. is it just because i need to idle it for a bit longer, or is it not getting enough gas? other than that it runs perfectly, i love my lrp .28... almost too much power, damn hard to control on ice, grass, cement, gravel.. etc.

kawasakirules 02-17-2008 06:03 PM

correct me if im wrong but your idle could be set to low, you should have a idle knob on your radio and twist that a little higher and then see if it dies when accelerating, if it does come back

Mugen MBX-5 02-17-2008 09:36 PM


Originally Posted by kawasakirules (Post 4186083)
correct me if im wrong but your idle could be set to low, you should have a idle knob on your radio and twist that a little higher and then see if it dies when accelerating, if it does come back

ill try that. my idle seems to be perfect, if anything its a little high.. or else my throttle trim isint quite set right on my remote.

i think it was just the way my friend was driving it... it only seemed to happen to one friend (the idiot of the group).... i drove it today and it was running fine. i think what happened is i was curious one day so i took my HSN needle all the way out to see how it worked, and when i put it back it it wasnt quite as tight as before.. and i think it kinda rattled it self closed about 1/4 turn, i opened it a little and it seemed to solve the problem.

ps: hondarules ;)

dgraham225 02-18-2008 04:49 AM

If your HSN is rattling back and forth, that's a very bad thing, lol! That can be detrimental to a motor, supposed it rattles inward more and more, that's leaning it out as your run it... And we all know that can be a bad thing!

If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...

Mugen MBX-5 02-18-2008 05:28 PM


Originally Posted by dgraham225 (Post 4187300)
If your HSN is rattling back and forth, that's a very bad thing, lol! That can be detrimental to a motor, supposed it rattles inward more and more, that's leaning it out as your run it... And we all know that can be a bad thing!

If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...

yeah i didnt think it would be too good for the motor, i wasnt sure how to fix it. and im not 100% sure thats what happened, im gonna be keeping a close eye on it now thats for sure.


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