jmoneym

iTrader: (357)

Nice paint work

Joe Kimble

iTrader: (19)

Good stuff!

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Very sharp!

Daytona955i

Hi,
I learn a lot by reading what you write...
and I greatly appreciate the technical discussions ... I thank you for that ...

but I not understand the technical reason why you used a diff oil so thin...

The teamC recommends : 10000 front and 5000 rear... but I do not understand even this choice... because, in general , in the class GT is using 100000 front and 30000 rear...

if anyone knows I thank him


p.s: sorry for my bad english

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

TeamC(the factory) do not race the cars, this class doesnt even really exist overseas and the manual was written before the class ever existed!. What are the fastest rubber tire RC cars? 10th scale TC and how are they setup? Spool front and very light rear oil. This allows for very good turn in and massive on power steering so the car basically follows where ever the front wheels are going. Since we do not use a center diff power is equally delivered to the front and rear and with the super thick front fluid you dont really have to worry about diffing out and losing traction.

The class you refer to is Serpent and that car is a different animal, the TeamC car does not have kickup so we lose initial weight transfer. You cannot set this car up like a Serpent, difs are different and many other things. 30,40,50k rear fluid will not work in this car very well.

Jspeed

Actually Marcus, GT cars have existed and have been raced around the world for at least the past 8 years.

GT has been raced for many years in: Japan, Philippines, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Ecuador, Panama, Mexico, Brazil, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Jamaica, Bahamas, Canada, Sweden, Switzerland, Finland, Great Britain, Spain, Portugal, Canary Islands, Italy, Netherlands, Turkey, Greece, Germany, Australia (as well possibly others that escape me at the moment) and of course here in the USA.

All of the above GT racers and their racing groups existed long before your brands contemplating entering the existing GT racer arena.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Please just leave this thread, your help is not needed or wanted here. I dont need a history lesson on RC cars of WWII, i really dont care. You dont race GT or support GT so if the past is all you can hang on to then please do it in the other thread.

MOD please be aware.....

Daytona955i

thanks for your explanation

so what could be the reason to put 500000 front and 20000 rear ? (eg post 1334)

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

not all setups will be the same Frenchies driving style is not as aggressive as mine. i tend to drive my cars like 1/8GP cars , lots of on power steering and i am on the gas before the Apex. I also build my front dif with double shims to basically get it as close to a spool as i can. With my setup you dont have to worry about the rear stepping out uncontrollably , and if it does you just drive through it. with the higher rear fluid the rear never really plants and is always dancing around. with the high rear fluids you have more of a tendency to "loop out" on exit if your not careful.

search mantisworx on youtube and you will see what i am talking about!!

Daytona955i

you convinced me ... I also hope to be able to drive like 1/8GP...

i have GT8L (long version )... so i setup as you say or have I to do some changes because that's the long version?

consider that I have two GT8L with two different engines...

Car A) novarossi Brave .21
Displacement: 3,49 cc
R.P.M. (max power): 38.500 RPM
Practical range: 6.000-45.000 R.P.M.
Bore x stroke: 16,26x16,80 mm
Sleeve: 5 ports
Rear ball bearings: steel
Front ball bearings: steel
Crankshaft: 14 mm - turbo
Carburetor: aluminium - 9mm - slide
Glowplug: Turbo (C6TF)
Exhaust position: rear
Starting: -
Weight: 348 g

Car B) novarossi ROMA .25
Displacement: 4,04 cc
R.P.M. (max power): 37.500 RPM
Practical range: 6.000-42.100 R.P.M.
Bore x stroke: 17,10x17,60 mm
Sleeve: 7 ports
Rear ball bearings: steel
Front ball bearings: steel
Crankshaft: 14 mm - turbo
Carburetor: plastic - 9 mm - reverse
Glowplug: Turbo (C6TGC)
Exhaust position: posteriore
Starting: -
Weight: 374 g

many thanks

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

The long chassis needs softer front springs, Serpent yellows work good. you also need the arm braces, it will begin to chatter sooner or later and i liked the long chassis with the aluminum chassis braces and ballbearing ackerman bar to help with steering, and the 10* Chub holders
engine wise your kinda in no mans land, problem is that the TeamC gears are really short so the long stroke roma is not going to be optimal, the 5pt with a short header and 9886 will probably be your best combo, this is assuming your track is fast. if its a short choppy track either engine will be fine but use 45/41 spur gears.

Daytona955i

ok thanks

here you can see my track

https : // plus.google.com/104836729692643813335/photos/photo/5926930643108298898?hl=it%26socfid=web:lu:kplacepa geimage%20%26socpid=1!5sRoad%20Race%20Riccione%20-%20Cerca%20con%20Google&sa=X&ei=d_PaU77eELKV7AalpY CYBA&v%20ed=0CGwQoiowDQ&pid=5926930643108298898&oi d=104836729692643813335

in A car with novarossi Brave .21 i I thought 16/20 pinion and 45/41 gear

in B car with novarossi ROMA .25 i I thought 17/21 pinion and 45/41 or 46/42 gear

What do you think ?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

That looks like a fast track! i would run the 17/21 for both engines with 46/41 on the Brave and 45/41 on the Roma. I make a custom billet gear set with a 40t second gear that the Roma would like!

Daytona955i

I do not have shims but i can put 1000k ... instead of 500k... do you think goes best with the 1000k ?

C1a0
Marco

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

higher the better, you can take the shims out of the rear dif and use them in the front, you dont need them in the rear.