Diggity Designs Custom R/C Components
03-03-2013, 11:45 AM
#1276
Tech Apprentice
Don't know anything about the xlr8 kits...but I got a decent look at Diggity's TC4 conversion yesterday - gonna make a lot of guys happy with this one... super quality, very light. A great upgrade!
03-16-2013, 07:58 PM
#1278
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
So finally ran my xlr8 for the first time today. Setup is proving to be difficult does anyone have a brushless lipo setup i can start with i have everything stock except dampers they have 60wt front 40 wt read associated 2 pistons red front springs and silver rear springs 1 degree camber all around 2 degrees rear toe zero degrees front toe 4 degree caster blocks.
My issue is unstable in highspeed sweepers and slow turn in
Thanks
My issue is unstable in highspeed sweepers and slow turn in
Thanks
04-14-2013, 08:40 PM
#1279
So finally ran my xlr8 for the first time today. Setup is proving to be difficult does anyone have a brushless lipo setup i can start with i have everything stock except dampers they have 60wt front 40 wt read associated 2 pistons red front springs and silver rear springs 1 degree camber all around 2 degrees rear toe zero degrees front toe 4 degree caster blocks.
My issue is unstable in highspeed sweepers and slow turn in
Thanks
My issue is unstable in highspeed sweepers and slow turn in
Thanks
What surface are you racing on?
04-14-2013, 09:13 PM
#1280
The release date for the DTC4 (Diggity Designs TC4 conversion) is estimated to be around 5/1/2013. This conversion has been designed to better suit rubber tire and brushless lipo racing for those who are running the TC4 (club to pro). VTA and USGT classes will highly benefit from this conversion as well as sedan mod and stock racing. Narrow chassis, floating tweak free servo mount, lipo holds, front and rear carbon towers with new shock geometry, aluminum motor mount. The conversion is very light. There will be more info to come as soon as I know a definite release date.
Here are a couple of prototype shots -
Here are a couple of prototype shots -
04-14-2013, 09:38 PM
#1281
Diggity Designs DX12 Transverse Conversion for the Xray X12
Okay X12 owners, We would like to introduce you to our transverse conversion kit. Comes with a solid 2.5mm chassis which consists of 3mm narrower front end mounting holes, 2.5mm upper top deck that moves the shock forward .250", a 3mm tweak plate that uses the o-ring style battery hold. Shock is mounted to the antenna mount and everything is centered on the chassis. Our testing has proven to be positive for 17.5 and 13.5 classes. We have not tested this in any mod class. Please visit our website for more info (http://www.diggitydesigns.com)
Some pics -
Some pics -
04-15-2013, 02:52 PM
#1283
Justin,
The first thing I would do is make sure your steering rack is not binding or if it has significant play or slop, the major issue we had with the XLR8 kits was the steering rack. Its been awhile but we used to mount a TC3 steering rack in with the bearings and that was a ton better, I think there is some minor modifications to get it to fit but I cant remember exactly, just look at it and you will figure it out.
Im also assuming that you are running rubber tire?
We ran 4 or 6° caster blocks, we would run the TC4 steering blocks and use the outer Ackermann holes. We also used the 2° TC4 rear hub carriers (you would need to drill a small hole in the bottom for a capture set screw to fit in to hold your hinge pin in since the TC4 versions don't have those like the TC3 does. Mount the arms in reverse (or flipped) and run the shocks on the inside of the shock tower in the rear.
I would run a total of 3° rear toe, the best setup would be 0° hub carriers and run the 3° tow block. Just try to get the toe at the toe-block.
For the shocks I would keep the 60/40 with the #2 pistons. I would change to yellow or purple front springs and keep the silvers in the back (maybe use blue).
You will want to run front and rear sway bar as well. We sell the .076 sway bars on the site still, you will need to have the TC3 sway bar hardware to get them to work. (you could probably get away with just running the front bar but you will need to test)
droop is also a big factor. with a hudy droop gauge I would do 4.8-4.6 in the front and 4.6-4.4 in the rear.
1.5° camber in the front and 2° camber in the rear.
front camber link in the highest inner hole on the tower, rear camber link in the lowest inner hole on the tower and use the highest point on the outer nub carrier.
I would run a 5.2mm-5.5mm ride height
I would run a fairly tight diff in the front or even a solid axle and run a medium tight diff in the rear.
.5° toe out in the front
this should get you heading in the right direction.
I would suggest taking a look at our new conversion for future racing. It is well improved over our older conversion kits for lipo and brushless rubber tire racing.
Let me know if you have any othere Q's and let me know how it goes at the track.
thanks, Damon
The first thing I would do is make sure your steering rack is not binding or if it has significant play or slop, the major issue we had with the XLR8 kits was the steering rack. Its been awhile but we used to mount a TC3 steering rack in with the bearings and that was a ton better, I think there is some minor modifications to get it to fit but I cant remember exactly, just look at it and you will figure it out.
Im also assuming that you are running rubber tire?
We ran 4 or 6° caster blocks, we would run the TC4 steering blocks and use the outer Ackermann holes. We also used the 2° TC4 rear hub carriers (you would need to drill a small hole in the bottom for a capture set screw to fit in to hold your hinge pin in since the TC4 versions don't have those like the TC3 does. Mount the arms in reverse (or flipped) and run the shocks on the inside of the shock tower in the rear.
I would run a total of 3° rear toe, the best setup would be 0° hub carriers and run the 3° tow block. Just try to get the toe at the toe-block.
For the shocks I would keep the 60/40 with the #2 pistons. I would change to yellow or purple front springs and keep the silvers in the back (maybe use blue).
You will want to run front and rear sway bar as well. We sell the .076 sway bars on the site still, you will need to have the TC3 sway bar hardware to get them to work. (you could probably get away with just running the front bar but you will need to test)
droop is also a big factor. with a hudy droop gauge I would do 4.8-4.6 in the front and 4.6-4.4 in the rear.
1.5° camber in the front and 2° camber in the rear.
front camber link in the highest inner hole on the tower, rear camber link in the lowest inner hole on the tower and use the highest point on the outer nub carrier.
I would run a 5.2mm-5.5mm ride height
I would run a fairly tight diff in the front or even a solid axle and run a medium tight diff in the rear.
.5° toe out in the front
this should get you heading in the right direction.
I would suggest taking a look at our new conversion for future racing. It is well improved over our older conversion kits for lipo and brushless rubber tire racing.
Let me know if you have any othere Q's and let me know how it goes at the track.
thanks, Damon
Last edited by Diggity; 04-15-2013 at 07:31 PM.
What can I say its carbon 
05-29-2013, 09:00 AM
#1287
Do you have anything for the tekno truck yet 
06-03-2013, 08:37 PM
#1289
06-10-2013, 02:06 PM
#1290
The release date for the DTC4 (Diggity Designs TC4 conversion) is estimated to be around 5/1/2013. This conversion has been designed to better suit rubber tire and brushless lipo racing for those who are running the TC4 (club to pro). VTA and USGT classes will highly benefit from this conversion as well as sedan mod and stock racing. Narrow chassis, floating tweak free servo mount, lipo holds, front and rear carbon towers with new shock geometry, aluminum motor mount. The conversion is very light. There will be more info to come as soon as I know a definite release date.
Here are a couple of prototype shots -
Here are a couple of prototype shots -
