nudge2325

iTrader: (13)

I just picked up a TC5R yesterday.

So far very happy with it.
What spare should i be carrying with the car. I have already organised front and rear arms and a spare front belt, but i need to know what else might be needed.

Can someone give me a setup for low, medium and high grip asphault using SOREX 36 tyres and a DNA body. I also have a R9-R body and a mazda 6 body i can use as well. I arent sure what the grip levels will be like at our state titles in a couple of weeks so i want to be prepared to change it if needed.

Thanks
Adrian

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Hi!

For good performance and easy setup try use protoform mazda speed 6.

Start from:
- downstop 6 for R and F,
- camber F=-1.5, R=-2.0,
- toe F=0 or +1, R = -3.0/-3.5,
- springs F=blue, R=silver,
- shocks: lenght ~60mm (I mean, take caliper and take dimmension from
holes), down snap outside, upper inside, oils 40WT, maybe 35 or 50, but
I prefer start from 40wt/400-450cst,
- steering links: 1B,
- wheel base 2mm,
- front swaybar silver and rear black,
- warm tires for 45-50-55deg or test if you need it,
- arm mounts 3 in lower hole,
- ride heigh 5.5mm front and 6.0 rear or 5.0/5.5, but track should be smooth and nice if bumpy set 5.5/6.0,
- for more flex just cut top deck or remove some screws,
at front left 3 (1 for steering tube and 2 near tower), from bottom
remove 4 screws (2 from each end, inside) but be carefull

Now, if car is understeer you have problem with front, not rear.
If car is oversteer, probably 1st problem is in the front, too much grip,
or rear has small grip ... But it depend on track and how you drive.

If car is little oversteer you are almost set just change downstop at
front from 6 to 7

Just play and tell your story

IMHO protoform mazda speed 6 is easy to drive, this body doesn't made
car tricky ;-) so car is easy to tune

Regards!
m

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Hi!

You remember this pic:

and


Now there is my car with modz from Ukraine

New tower mounts -> longer and parallel links
New solid axle
New titanium main shaft
New engine mount

Cut ITF top deck
New servo mount
Suma => NEW CAR! Is better then I expect, again I fall in love with DTM






more there: http://abram.eu.org/files/tc5r_ua/

:-)

probably I should change to exotek but there is no place for
new servo position (maybe some mods made at home ... but ...)

dragnse7en

The GPM front steering knuckles are a tad to tight (tight enough) and bind up the steering on this setup. The rear GPM hubs on the other hand fit like a glove on this ride.

Has anyone seen a FT blue aluminum screw kit for this car yet?

Or a titanium kit would work too - steel rusts here

mr crum

iTrader: (5)

tc5 for sale exotek chassis aluminum rear and front hubs tons of parts tc body several sets of tires also rcgt body and tires $300 local or buyer pay shipping pm me your email for pics

spongerX

Is this the same TC5 that was so much crap you threw it in the garbage?

Not sure who GPM is but the Integy knuckles fit well with a small bit of work.

Aluminium screws would be crap in most places on this car unless it is only a shelf queen. There are a couple of companies that make stainless screw kits for this car. Litemodz has a titanium screw kit for this car for about 2-3 times the price of the stainless kits. Do not use either of them unless you have a quality hex driver as the heads strip easier than the stock steel screws.

Your TC5 might be less crap if it wasn't set up with offroad chassis clearance and the X-patterns were mounted the correct way. X-Patterns with HPI molded 24mm inserts can be made to work quite well on parking lot tracks. Switching at least the top deck to the ITF one would also improve things a lot if you're running outside on asphalt.

dragnse7en

I'm planning on taking it on an indoor carpet track in October as a backup car.

Good to know about the aluminum screws.

What's different between the ITF upper deck and the kit part?

spongerX

The ITF top deck is cut differently to allow more flex. There is also an ITF chassis plate which is thinner than the stock one. They allow the car to flex more for more traction on asphalt.

dragnse7en

I made a mistake. The hubs and front knuckles are from Integy and not GPM. I was probably thinking of one of my other cars.

Is there a hot tip book or magazine written specifically for the TC5 or at least AE 4WD TCs in general?

spongerX

Where I found the Integy knuckles binding a bit was on the front C hub under the ball stud. I clearanced the C hubs a bit around the bushing so that the ball stud would rest on the bushing instead of the C hub and that took care of the binding.

I've never heard of a book dedicated to the TC5. Hudy has a tuning book that has tuning principles that can be applied generically to RC touring cars. It comes with their 1/10 TC setup kit and can be downloaded for free here: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...030822fe32a83b

Having a decent setup station really helps with TC racing since really small adjustments can have a noticeable effect on their handling. Hudy makes the best to me but Integy has one that is a lot more affordable. The Hudy 1/10 kit costs about the same as a TC5r but comes in a nice Aluminum carrying case and will last for many years.

Even left to right balance is also critical to touring cars. I'm not sure if the first generation TC5 kits had them but on the TC5r and TC5f there are holes on the centre line at the front and rear of the chassis that allow you to put the car on balancing pins (Hudy sells them for about $10) that will let you know which side of the car is heavier so you can stick weights on the other side until the car is sitting level on the balancing pins. Moving the Lipo pack further out on the chassis can help with this. Diggity designs has nice plates that allow easy mounting of lipos further out so you don't have to add so many weights to the car.

There is a lot of info in this thread and another one here http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ps-tricks.html

If you have a lot of time you can read all the posts but the most recent info to do with the TC5r and TC5f would be in the last 1-2 years I think.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

AE makes blue aluminum screws in all the sizes standard on a TC5 although I agree with the previous post that for most places on the car aluminum is asking for trouble unless you are a very good driver and you are very precise with you tools... I use them for half of the shock mounts, 2 of the 4 screws on both sides of the top deck, and battery strap/tray mount.

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

The original TC5FT has those holes, my car started life as a FT even though it no longer looks like an AE built TC5 as my TC5 has a number of after market parts fitted to it.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

Is this your backup car for Rubber or Foam tires...

If it's Rubber you may want to have Blue/Silver/Green springs as the Purple/Gold you're running is way too stiff for Rubber tires...

dragnse7en

Good to know - is there a traction spray for rubber tires? Thats what I will be using. I'm guessing that its needed more for slicks than radials, but wouldnt hurt to use it anyway.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

traction compound/spray is usually event track specific as some races/facilities will require a certain type only and disallow others either to keep racing "spec" or because they don't want certain chemicals in the building i.e. paragon ground effects.

If it's indoor carpet i find paragon ground effects does work the best although jack the ripper which is a standard at some larger events due to its lack of odor also works well. For outdoor tire tweak works well as long as you give it a good 5-10 minutes to sit before running and you either wipe off the excess or run off the slickness before your heat begins...