Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
#4367
Tech Initiate
Hi all
I have an idea about that the geardiff is one of the most importent things on the car. I will drive with the metal gears. So my question is how many shims do i set in the geardiff so it is perfect shimed up ?
Best regards
Frederik Broløs Mikkelsen
I have an idea about that the geardiff is one of the most importent things on the car. I will drive with the metal gears. So my question is how many shims do i set in the geardiff so it is perfect shimed up ?
Best regards
Frederik Broløs Mikkelsen
#4368
For me our metal gears are smoother with 2-3 pcs of 0.1mm shims total for both sides under inner B85 bearings and the plastic gears are smoother without any shims or with one shim only.
Please try to change the orientation of P17 plastic cross also as this part is not 100% symmetric.
Please try to change the orientation of P17 plastic cross also as this part is not 100% symmetric.
#4370
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
Not enough ride height (not enough tension between on rhs). Look at all of the shs and rhs screws. They rhs screws should be about the same distance/height difference from the shs. Make sure you tweak the car.
#2
Or Loose spr02/set screw on the dampener
Getting the dampeners right IS one of the most important parts of the car.
Also-- double check the screws at the back of the dampener. They are likely to be loose/get loose after the first run.
If your still lost leverage the team! Monti "The Mangler" will be at Dirlas race on Fri/Sat.
#4371
#4372
1 Topdeck centre brace
2 Floating front gearbox
3 New diff Corally style http://www.redrc.net/2012/12/corally-sgx-gear-diff/
- I had something very similar in my Avante back in 1988
#4373
Tech Apprentice
Try to straighten SPR02 a little at a time then asemble the unit and check until the slop with ST05 is gone, it is not a fast process but sure worth the time spending.
Most of the case is a over bended SPR02 by pressing forming process, I did the trick to all my cars and the slop never come back.
Best regard
Wen
#4374
Tech Fanatic
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12338328-post3801.html
In case of all SPR02 are OK the most probable reason of the increased play is too low downstop and not enough spring preload on the particular corner.
The well adjusted car should have the equal play of the left/right wheels ( 0-2mm depending of the ride height and spring's rate).
#4375
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
GREAT START
Had a great start to our indoor season to jump off one of our carpet series up here in Seattle (SRCR).
Since I'm running the original A700, I went with Ivan's Prostock ETS2011 setup. Followed it to the letter. Car was really good in the first heat but felt the car leaning a bit too much in the quick corners. So just for giggles decided to put on the 'brown-ish' swaybars (the ones right after the super thins). In practice in between rounds I couldn't believe what a difference that made. The car was just that much better and a lot more predictable. I could put the car anywhere I wanted w/o fear.
Second heat, it felt like I was mad at the track and just attacked. Myself and the leader was on a new TQ pace until with 3 laps left, a fellow lapper decided to play a little nasty. I qualified 2nd on the grid. Oh well...
The main was great...but coming back in the middle of the summer from a 2 year layoff, my driving showed I still have some rust to shake off. My ability of holding a tight line just isn't quite back yet
It'll come
Since I'm running the original A700, I went with Ivan's Prostock ETS2011 setup. Followed it to the letter. Car was really good in the first heat but felt the car leaning a bit too much in the quick corners. So just for giggles decided to put on the 'brown-ish' swaybars (the ones right after the super thins). In practice in between rounds I couldn't believe what a difference that made. The car was just that much better and a lot more predictable. I could put the car anywhere I wanted w/o fear.
Second heat, it felt like I was mad at the track and just attacked. Myself and the leader was on a new TQ pace until with 3 laps left, a fellow lapper decided to play a little nasty. I qualified 2nd on the grid. Oh well...
The main was great...but coming back in the middle of the summer from a 2 year layoff, my driving showed I still have some rust to shake off. My ability of holding a tight line just isn't quite back yet
It'll come
Last edited by JayBee; 09-23-2013 at 09:57 PM.
#4376
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
I was playing around with droop this weekend and saw some profound improvements in car handling. As many owning this car should know, it responds to the smallest setup changes, like no other car I've owned before anyway. It's an awesome thing, pun intended.
When i set droop i do it over ride height by measuring chassis height to ground, just behind the front wheel and in front of the rear, by lifting the car when holding the wheel on the side i'm checking. Pretty standard operation for those doing droop over ride height. I've been setting front to just under 1.5 mm and rear to just under 2 mm. Car has been handling very well and fast, just as fast as anyone else at our track. So i tried removing some to see what would happen. Went to 1 mm front and 1.5 mm back, what an improvement. Pulled my fastest lap to date in 17.5 and if it wasn't for me hitting shit probably my best average. Car transitioned through chicanes so nice and was even easier to drive.
If you never thought about playing with droop try 3-4 runs starting around .5\1 mm (Frnt\Rr respectively) and go up in .5 mm increments and see what happens.
I'm so looking forward to running this car at IIC this year, should be very good.
When i set droop i do it over ride height by measuring chassis height to ground, just behind the front wheel and in front of the rear, by lifting the car when holding the wheel on the side i'm checking. Pretty standard operation for those doing droop over ride height. I've been setting front to just under 1.5 mm and rear to just under 2 mm. Car has been handling very well and fast, just as fast as anyone else at our track. So i tried removing some to see what would happen. Went to 1 mm front and 1.5 mm back, what an improvement. Pulled my fastest lap to date in 17.5 and if it wasn't for me hitting shit probably my best average. Car transitioned through chicanes so nice and was even easier to drive.
If you never thought about playing with droop try 3-4 runs starting around .5\1 mm (Frnt\Rr respectively) and go up in .5 mm increments and see what happens.
I'm so looking forward to running this car at IIC this year, should be very good.
#4377
Well said bkspeedo..... I think 1mm is the magic number to stay around, and the Awesomatix's already low Center of gravity will get even lower in the turns with these droop settings... Droop adjustment alone should make the A700 TQ...lol....
#4379
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
I used Gee's Setup and really didn't change much of anything the whole weekend. Well... other then when Rob was checking out the car and pointed out something really dumb on my part. Also met "The Mangler" and he had a couple pointers as well. Since the car felt so good I didn't have to bug him much.
#4380
First of all, with Thanks to Oleg, Wen and Angus, my parts are finally coming within this week.
As I am making up a list of things to order, what parts should I order to keep stock? Also, what is the use of AM18-1 and AM 26?
As I am making up a list of things to order, what parts should I order to keep stock? Also, what is the use of AM18-1 and AM 26?