Electric motor break in
#1
Electric motor break in
Just wondering everyones various techniques for breaking in new motors and why they use the technique that they do. I have heard of soooo many different ways to do it so trying to get some insight on the best way to do it and a reason why thats the best way. Let me have it guys!
#2
Connect a 3.0v pack (2cell) directly to the motor for 3 minutes. I think this is the most common way of breaking in a motor.
#3
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
i have had this problem where i can't get my charger to spin my motor after putting new brushes and cutting the comm. So here is what I do:
chuck the motor in a dremel and run it at low speed for 1 minute
then
I run 3.0 volts (via chrger) for 2 minutes.
either way, these 2 methods (mine and duratrax) are the easiest and best.
chuck the motor in a dremel and run it at low speed for 1 minute
then
I run 3.0 volts (via chrger) for 2 minutes.
either way, these 2 methods (mine and duratrax) are the easiest and best.
#4
Registered User
also, if u have a charger that can power motors/comm lathes, u can do it like that at anywhere from .1 to like, 7.2 volts...
#7
Originally Posted by DFroyd
After cutting the com I run them at 3 volts for 5 minutes, check wear pattern on the brushes. New motor run them 3 volts 10 minutes, check pattern on the brushes, cut the comm if needed, clean and reassemble. Good Luck!!
#8
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by Team Duratrax
I've never heard of anyone cutting the comm after break-in. Isn't that going a little too far?
#9
This is all my personal opinion...motor care is one of those things where you could get 100 different opinions from 100 different racers.
I don't believe in comm drops, brush drops, comm sticks, any of that nonsense. Bearing/bushing lube, and motor spray, are the only things that touch my motors.
Running your motor with a dremel will do nothing but glaze the comm and brushes, and you'll need to service them again. The motor needs to be running on its own. If the motor won't spin, it's because the brushes are hung up in the hoods; pull on the brush shunt and let them snap into place and it should work.
You need to run the motor out of the package before you cut it for the first time..out of the box, the comm material hasn't hardened yet and you'll just be wasting your time. You can run it for a couple battery packs, or let it run on the charger for 5-10 minutes (let it cool down as you go) and then cut it, put brushes on it, do what you wanna do.
I never really break my brushes in after I cut the comm. Just a minute or so to make sure the motor runs and the brushes won't hang up on the track, and run it. When i was running a lot of stock, using 4499 and 4505 brushes I wouldn't run the motor for any more than 15-30 seconds on the bench because I felt the motor made more power when the brushes had fresh serrations.
I don't believe in comm drops, brush drops, comm sticks, any of that nonsense. Bearing/bushing lube, and motor spray, are the only things that touch my motors.
Running your motor with a dremel will do nothing but glaze the comm and brushes, and you'll need to service them again. The motor needs to be running on its own. If the motor won't spin, it's because the brushes are hung up in the hoods; pull on the brush shunt and let them snap into place and it should work.
You need to run the motor out of the package before you cut it for the first time..out of the box, the comm material hasn't hardened yet and you'll just be wasting your time. You can run it for a couple battery packs, or let it run on the charger for 5-10 minutes (let it cool down as you go) and then cut it, put brushes on it, do what you wanna do.
I never really break my brushes in after I cut the comm. Just a minute or so to make sure the motor runs and the brushes won't hang up on the track, and run it. When i was running a lot of stock, using 4499 and 4505 brushes I wouldn't run the motor for any more than 15-30 seconds on the bench because I felt the motor made more power when the brushes had fresh serrations.
#10
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
This is all my personal opinion...motor care is one of those things where you could get 100 different opinions from 100 different racers.
I don't believe in comm drops, brush drops, comm sticks, any of that nonsense. Bearing/bushing lube, and motor spray, are the only things that touch my motors.
Running your motor with a dremel will do nothing but glaze the comm and brushes, and you'll need to service them again. The motor needs to be running on its own. If the motor won't spin, it's because the brushes are hung up in the hoods; pull on the brush shunt and let them snap into place and it should work.
You need to run the motor out of the package before you cut it for the first time..out of the box, the comm material hasn't hardened yet and you'll just be wasting your time. You can run it for a couple battery packs, or let it run on the charger for 5-10 minutes (let it cool down as you go) and then cut it, put brushes on it, do what you wanna do.
I never really break my brushes in after I cut the comm. Just a minute or so to make sure the motor runs and the brushes won't hang up on the track, and run it. When i was running a lot of stock, using 4499 and 4505 brushes I wouldn't run the motor for any more than 15-30 seconds on the bench because I felt the motor made more power when the brushes had fresh serrations.
I don't believe in comm drops, brush drops, comm sticks, any of that nonsense. Bearing/bushing lube, and motor spray, are the only things that touch my motors.
Running your motor with a dremel will do nothing but glaze the comm and brushes, and you'll need to service them again. The motor needs to be running on its own. If the motor won't spin, it's because the brushes are hung up in the hoods; pull on the brush shunt and let them snap into place and it should work.
You need to run the motor out of the package before you cut it for the first time..out of the box, the comm material hasn't hardened yet and you'll just be wasting your time. You can run it for a couple battery packs, or let it run on the charger for 5-10 minutes (let it cool down as you go) and then cut it, put brushes on it, do what you wanna do.
I never really break my brushes in after I cut the comm. Just a minute or so to make sure the motor runs and the brushes won't hang up on the track, and run it. When i was running a lot of stock, using 4499 and 4505 brushes I wouldn't run the motor for any more than 15-30 seconds on the bench because I felt the motor made more power when the brushes had fresh serrations.
if you are going to re-use your brushes, keep them well away from motor cleaner if you are going to blast your end-bell, it dries out the brushes and they loose performance.
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by Doughty
I agree and do pretty much the same as Aaron.
if you are going to re-use your brushes, keep them well away from motor cleaner if you are going to blast your end-bell, it dries out the brushes and they loose performance.
if you are going to re-use your brushes, keep them well away from motor cleaner if you are going to blast your end-bell, it dries out the brushes and they loose performance.
#12
When you cut the comm, use a header card to clean out the slots in the comm. Ballpoint pens and x-acto knives can tweak and mess up your perfectly trued comm.
Clean as much of the crud out of your motor as you can with a soft-bristled brush. The less stuff you try to flush through your bearings (or imbed into your bushings..haha) the better off you'll be.
Clean as much of the crud out of your motor as you can with a soft-bristled brush. The less stuff you try to flush through your bearings (or imbed into your bushings..haha) the better off you'll be.