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Electric motor break in

Electric motor break in

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Old 11-17-2005, 08:02 PM
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Lightbulb Electric motor break in

Just wondering everyones various techniques for breaking in new motors and why they use the technique that they do. I have heard of soooo many different ways to do it so trying to get some insight on the best way to do it and a reason why thats the best way. Let me have it guys!
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Old 11-17-2005, 08:57 PM
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Connect a 3.0v pack (2cell) directly to the motor for 3 minutes. I think this is the most common way of breaking in a motor.
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:19 AM
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i have had this problem where i can't get my charger to spin my motor after putting new brushes and cutting the comm. So here is what I do:

chuck the motor in a dremel and run it at low speed for 1 minute

then

I run 3.0 volts (via chrger) for 2 minutes.

either way, these 2 methods (mine and duratrax) are the easiest and best.
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:20 AM
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also, if u have a charger that can power motors/comm lathes, u can do it like that at anywhere from .1 to like, 7.2 volts...
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:22 AM
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I do pretty much the same thing, cept i use the motor break in option on my Ice charger, put a few drops of comm drops on it and run it for like 3-5 min, and i do that every time i cut the comm and replace the brushes on any of my motors.
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Old 11-18-2005, 10:27 AM
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After cutting the com I run them at 3 volts for 5 minutes, check wear pattern on the brushes. New motor run them 3 volts 10 minutes, check pattern on the brushes, cut the comm if needed, clean and reassemble. Good Luck!!
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DFroyd
After cutting the com I run them at 3 volts for 5 minutes, check wear pattern on the brushes. New motor run them 3 volts 10 minutes, check pattern on the brushes, cut the comm if needed, clean and reassemble. Good Luck!!
I've never heard of anyone cutting the comm after break-in. Isn't that going a little too far?
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Duratrax
I've never heard of anyone cutting the comm after break-in. Isn't that going a little too far?
I've done that on a few motors after reading it in "Big Jim's RC Motor Book". Without access to a dyno or motor monitor I don't know how much of a gain there is. Most of the time I just disassemble and inspect after break in. I just figured that the author of the book and his sources know a heck of a lot more about these motors than I do so I have taken a very light cut after break in depending on how the comm looks.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:00 PM
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This is all my personal opinion...motor care is one of those things where you could get 100 different opinions from 100 different racers.

I don't believe in comm drops, brush drops, comm sticks, any of that nonsense. Bearing/bushing lube, and motor spray, are the only things that touch my motors.

Running your motor with a dremel will do nothing but glaze the comm and brushes, and you'll need to service them again. The motor needs to be running on its own. If the motor won't spin, it's because the brushes are hung up in the hoods; pull on the brush shunt and let them snap into place and it should work.

You need to run the motor out of the package before you cut it for the first time..out of the box, the comm material hasn't hardened yet and you'll just be wasting your time. You can run it for a couple battery packs, or let it run on the charger for 5-10 minutes (let it cool down as you go) and then cut it, put brushes on it, do what you wanna do.

I never really break my brushes in after I cut the comm. Just a minute or so to make sure the motor runs and the brushes won't hang up on the track, and run it. When i was running a lot of stock, using 4499 and 4505 brushes I wouldn't run the motor for any more than 15-30 seconds on the bench because I felt the motor made more power when the brushes had fresh serrations.
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Old 11-28-2005, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
This is all my personal opinion...motor care is one of those things where you could get 100 different opinions from 100 different racers.

I don't believe in comm drops, brush drops, comm sticks, any of that nonsense. Bearing/bushing lube, and motor spray, are the only things that touch my motors.

Running your motor with a dremel will do nothing but glaze the comm and brushes, and you'll need to service them again. The motor needs to be running on its own. If the motor won't spin, it's because the brushes are hung up in the hoods; pull on the brush shunt and let them snap into place and it should work.

You need to run the motor out of the package before you cut it for the first time..out of the box, the comm material hasn't hardened yet and you'll just be wasting your time. You can run it for a couple battery packs, or let it run on the charger for 5-10 minutes (let it cool down as you go) and then cut it, put brushes on it, do what you wanna do.

I never really break my brushes in after I cut the comm. Just a minute or so to make sure the motor runs and the brushes won't hang up on the track, and run it. When i was running a lot of stock, using 4499 and 4505 brushes I wouldn't run the motor for any more than 15-30 seconds on the bench because I felt the motor made more power when the brushes had fresh serrations.
I agree and do pretty much the same as Aaron.

if you are going to re-use your brushes, keep them well away from motor cleaner if you are going to blast your end-bell, it dries out the brushes and they loose performance.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Doughty
I agree and do pretty much the same as Aaron.

if you are going to re-use your brushes, keep them well away from motor cleaner if you are going to blast your end-bell, it dries out the brushes and they loose performance.
that i did not know, i usually clean them off with motor cleaner, i'll try and not get them with the motor cleaner and see what that does. I usually take my motors apart after every race and clean them with motor cleaner, then put them back together. I'll cut the come after every two weeks of racing usually (so usually i'll rebuild once the motor has about six runs on it), but i use a different motor for practice then i do for racing.
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Old 11-28-2005, 10:11 AM
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When you cut the comm, use a header card to clean out the slots in the comm. Ballpoint pens and x-acto knives can tweak and mess up your perfectly trued comm.

Clean as much of the crud out of your motor as you can with a soft-bristled brush. The less stuff you try to flush through your bearings (or imbed into your bushings..haha) the better off you'll be.
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:48 PM
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What is a header card???
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