108LikesTeam Associated T5M Discussion
11-03-2015, 06:48 PM
#2416
I am finishing up building the Associated 2wd Buggy and truck fleet and have a few questions. If you could help me out understand thing the following, it would greatly appreciated:
1.) The Kit setup has 2mm washer on the steering rack. By taking away the blue washer or changing out to a 1mm, what will that do to the steering feel?
2.) On the T5M, I see several people are using the +4 C Block and a different rear D Block with arrows pointed outward. Again, what would be the purpose for making this change. How does it affect the truck?
3.) What would the difference be on the buggy instead of using 25 + 5 in caster to using 30 + 0...
THANKS!!!
1.) The Kit setup has 2mm washer on the steering rack. By taking away the blue washer or changing out to a 1mm, what will that do to the steering feel?
2.) On the T5M, I see several people are using the +4 C Block and a different rear D Block with arrows pointed outward. Again, what would be the purpose for making this change. How does it affect the truck?
3.) What would the difference be on the buggy instead of using 25 + 5 in caster to using 30 + 0...
THANKS!!!
11-06-2015, 10:18 PM
#2417
I am finishing up building the Associated 2wd Buggy and truck fleet and have a few questions. If you could help me out understand thing the following, it would greatly appreciated:
1.) The Kit setup has 2mm washer on the steering rack. By taking away the blue washer or changing out to a 1mm, what will that do to the steering feel?
---- more ackerman. Less aggressive steering into a corner.
2.) On the T5M, I see several people are using the +4 C Block and a different rear D Block with arrows pointed outward. Again, what would be the purpose for making this change. How does it affect the truck?
---- makes the rear end more stable. You also need to run the HD rear axles with the +4 mount.
3.) What would the difference be on the buggy instead of using 25 + 5 in caster to using 30 + 0...
---- overall caster would be the same for both setups. But more kickup would make it turn into the corner a little harder.
THANKS!!!
1.) The Kit setup has 2mm washer on the steering rack. By taking away the blue washer or changing out to a 1mm, what will that do to the steering feel?
---- more ackerman. Less aggressive steering into a corner.
2.) On the T5M, I see several people are using the +4 C Block and a different rear D Block with arrows pointed outward. Again, what would be the purpose for making this change. How does it affect the truck?
---- makes the rear end more stable. You also need to run the HD rear axles with the +4 mount.
3.) What would the difference be on the buggy instead of using 25 + 5 in caster to using 30 + 0...
---- overall caster would be the same for both setups. But more kickup would make it turn into the corner a little harder.
THANKS!!!
See notes added below your questions
11-07-2015, 09:46 AM
#2418
who has a good setup for low bite indoor??
11-07-2015, 08:07 PM
#2419
Tech Adept
I haven't read through all of this thread but was wondering if anyone has experimented with the gear diff on high bite clay. If so, what weight diff are have you tried and what turn motor? Thanks
11-07-2015, 10:11 PM
#2420
can anyone help me out? im running the c and d brass rear hinge pin holders with 35f 27.5 r shock oil 1.6 f 1.7r pistions and i cant get the rear locked in around corners. when i come into corner the rear steps out bad. any ideas please??
11-08-2015, 07:53 AM
#2422
11-08-2015, 08:23 AM
#2424
go back to the book set up and take the shock oil and springs down 2 steps. you may want to try that w/o the brass D mount. if traction is low you have to run a ball diff.
My T5M is dialed on our low traction winter layout and all I did is what I told you to do above. I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure that I ended up with white/green and 27.5/25. I'm sure about the oil.....but not the springs.
My T5M is dialed on our low traction winter layout and all I did is what I told you to do above. I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure that I ended up with white/green and 27.5/25. I'm sure about the oil.....but not the springs.
11-08-2015, 02:33 PM
#2425
I bought my T5M used and it has yellow springs front and white rear with 35wt front and 30wt rear. It drives pretty good but I think I'm going to soften the oil frt & rr. Both tracks I race on are pretty smooth with med sized jumps. What are you guys running spring and oil wise on similar tracks?
11-08-2015, 07:13 PM
#2428
11-08-2015, 07:23 PM
#2429
For one, their longer, secondly they have a lower turn count with larger space between coils, kinda like the Kyosho springs. Since they are made for a truck with longer shocks they work way better, since you don't have to turn down the shock collar halfway down to achieve ride height. Marvel concept I know, since back in the T4/B4 and older series there was truck rear springs and buggy rears aka truck fronts. Thankfully it's coming back for AE with the new springs!
11-08-2015, 07:51 PM
#2430
For one, their longer, secondly they have a lower turn count with larger space between coils, kinda like the Kyosho springs. Since they are made for a truck with longer shocks they work way better, since you don't have to turn down the shock collar halfway down to achieve ride height. Marvel concept I know, since back in the T4/B4 and older series there was truck rear springs and buggy rears aka truck fronts. Thankfully it's coming back for AE with the new springs!