Can the RC10T2 still be cometative??
10-04-2006, 09:49 AM
#3
Its the magician not the wand.
Given that todays transmisions and cars are a lot more durable. Parts for a T2 will be hard to find and pretty limited. That more than anything will hurt you at the track.
Given that todays transmisions and cars are a lot more durable. Parts for a T2 will be hard to find and pretty limited. That more than anything will hurt you at the track.
10-04-2006, 03:50 PM
#7
You guys are absolutly correct. I called associated and their tech is not nearly helpful as you yo-yos. I appreciate you. 
I have been checking with Tower and so far I can still get the steering knuckles, a-arms, and shock towers. Anything else I should grab up before the stock is all gone? I cant remember what broke the most on that sucker.
Kevin "new old stock"
I have been checking with Tower and so far I can still get the steering knuckles, a-arms, and shock towers. Anything else I should grab up before the stock is all gone? I cant remember what broke the most on that sucker.
Kevin "new old stock"
10-05-2006, 08:11 AM
#11
sure do
yea mate.in townsville in australia.i also race a B4.
i really like the T2.with the rpm arms it is tough as and i like the squarer body.i hate the bodys on the new trucks.
main thing i have to work on is is getting more front end grip.i think after i replace the slipper pads and set the slipper properly that might help.(it likes to wheely on high grip which doesnt help coming out of corners)
i really like the T2.with the rpm arms it is tough as and i like the squarer body.i hate the bodys on the new trucks.
main thing i have to work on is is getting more front end grip.i think after i replace the slipper pads and set the slipper properly that might help.(it likes to wheely on high grip which doesnt help coming out of corners)
10-05-2006, 12:34 PM
#13
I still believe the T2 is the fastest, most driveable truck ever produced. I miss mine to this day. Especially on large outdoor tracks that get a little rough.
A few tips to get more front grip. Make sure your dif. is tight. I think back then the recommended setting was 1/4 turn out, but you can tighten it to maybe 1/8 or somewhere in between. Then tune with your slipper.
Next the rear axle carrier placement is critical. Move it up as far as you dare. I believe this truck was pre-moveable hubs, and we had to Dremel the front-inside of the a-arm. I don't remember for sure, and maybe they introduced this with update parts. Even still move them up more if the arms are not compromised.
Then the anti-squat on this truck was very useful. Take some out. We used the thin outdrive shims to accomplish this. Stack some up under the rear suspension mount to flatten the arm a little. We used quite a few, but work up to it.
Keep in mind that ride height will become critical. Keep the axles level, and if it wants to come around on you raise it a little. I used to draw an imaginary line from hub to hub, and kept the arms and the axles equally distant from this line. Then set your front ride height by referencing the rear, the chassis needs to be perfectly level. It should be about arms level, but it's more important to keep the chassis on a good plane.
Next move to the front. Make sure the bump-steer is perfectly neutral. I'm pretty sure AE made a spacer specifically for this. This is a bench test as you can compress and rebound the arm and observe the reaction of the stub axle. Use that ackerman. The T2 allowed adjustment of this rate, contrary to modern cars, much to my disappointment. Make it a little more aggressive by moving the steering arms closer with the little tie-rod. Don't overdo it, but it can be educational to move them a lot and then try driving it.
Put on the 20degree castor blocks now. The truck will easily wash out on exit if you don't. If the front is too aggressive on entry take a little of that ackerman out, and make sure you have NO toe-out. Stand the front wheels up a little and go with a little firmer foam and harder tire.
As always, 80% of off-road is the tires, and I don't know how any of this will respond to modern compounds.
Know how to build AE shocks, and keep the truck neutral. When dropped from about 6in. it should compress and rebound equally and neutrally. No slap and no hop, and no difference in rate front to rear.
Now you will tune with your str d/r, esc and slipper. This was cool. It reminded me that you used to have to know how to build a car to be fast.
Lastly, if anybody has a new-in-box T2, I would love to purchase it. I can be reached at [email protected]
A few tips to get more front grip. Make sure your dif. is tight. I think back then the recommended setting was 1/4 turn out, but you can tighten it to maybe 1/8 or somewhere in between. Then tune with your slipper.
Next the rear axle carrier placement is critical. Move it up as far as you dare. I believe this truck was pre-moveable hubs, and we had to Dremel the front-inside of the a-arm. I don't remember for sure, and maybe they introduced this with update parts. Even still move them up more if the arms are not compromised.
Then the anti-squat on this truck was very useful. Take some out. We used the thin outdrive shims to accomplish this. Stack some up under the rear suspension mount to flatten the arm a little. We used quite a few, but work up to it.
Keep in mind that ride height will become critical. Keep the axles level, and if it wants to come around on you raise it a little. I used to draw an imaginary line from hub to hub, and kept the arms and the axles equally distant from this line. Then set your front ride height by referencing the rear, the chassis needs to be perfectly level. It should be about arms level, but it's more important to keep the chassis on a good plane.
Next move to the front. Make sure the bump-steer is perfectly neutral. I'm pretty sure AE made a spacer specifically for this. This is a bench test as you can compress and rebound the arm and observe the reaction of the stub axle. Use that ackerman. The T2 allowed adjustment of this rate, contrary to modern cars, much to my disappointment. Make it a little more aggressive by moving the steering arms closer with the little tie-rod. Don't overdo it, but it can be educational to move them a lot and then try driving it.
Put on the 20degree castor blocks now. The truck will easily wash out on exit if you don't. If the front is too aggressive on entry take a little of that ackerman out, and make sure you have NO toe-out. Stand the front wheels up a little and go with a little firmer foam and harder tire.
As always, 80% of off-road is the tires, and I don't know how any of this will respond to modern compounds.
Know how to build AE shocks, and keep the truck neutral. When dropped from about 6in. it should compress and rebound equally and neutrally. No slap and no hop, and no difference in rate front to rear.
Now you will tune with your str d/r, esc and slipper. This was cool. It reminded me that you used to have to know how to build a car to be fast.
Lastly, if anybody has a new-in-box T2, I would love to purchase it. I can be reached at [email protected]
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