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Old 05-10-2009, 09:27 AM
  #3691  
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Originally Posted by wolfman864
The voltage cutoff was disabled on mine. But now when I try to apply new settings I get the error codes.
I am not sure about the error codes in the programing. The flashing lites on the esc when powered on means low battery. I do not have the novac booster, so I am not sure how you need to wire it in. My booster is wired in between the battery and the receiver, lipo cutoff is off and the power switch for the esc is off. You might try going back to 189 or earlier, setup the settings then try to run the car. I have seen an rs lockup and we had to go back on the versions and then bring it forward to the current version.
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:06 PM
  #3692  
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I think I got it figured out, I completely zeroed out the speed control, so now I need to wire it back in and give it a shot. for some reason I can only get versions 178 and 180, but not version 198 that was the hot ticket for 1cell lipo
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:25 AM
  #3693  
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Originally Posted by wolfman864
I think I got it figured out, I completely zeroed out the speed control, so now I need to wire it back in and give it a shot. for some reason I can only get versions 178 and 180, but not version 198 that was the hot ticket for 1cell lipo
uhm... download it from the website? Here, you can get it here:

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:55 AM
  #3694  
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thanks for the link I'll give it a shot. The update feature directly from the hotwire program said differently.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:07 PM
  #3695  
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Please pardon my ignorance but I'm quite new to brushless tech. I have recently got my RS Pro and I must say its really quite an engineering feat to behold.

As I managed to get a new Speed Passion Comp V1.0 4.5 turn for a steal this was what I ran on my new RS Pro. My FDR is around 8.9 on a touring car. However, I noticed that the Speed Passion motor ran quite a bit hotter than my old Novak 4.5R on a GTB with the same FDR on the same car.

My question is whether different motors of the same turn no. will have very different running temps and whether the ESC used plays a part in this.

Thanks a lot and congrats on an excellent product.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:18 PM
  #3696  
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Originally Posted by radwerx
Please pardon my ignorance but I'm quite new to brushless tech. I have recently got my RS Pro and I must say its really quite an engineering feat to behold.

As I managed to get a new Speed Passion Comp V1.0 4.5 turn for a steal this was what I ran on my new RS Pro. My FDR is around 8.9 on a touring car. However, I noticed that the Speed Passion motor ran quite a bit hotter than my old Novak 4.5R on a GTB with the same FDR on the same car.

My question is whether different motors of the same turn no. will have very different running temps and whether the ESC used plays a part in this.

Thanks a lot and congrats on an excellent product.
The same turn motors from different manufacturers basically without fail have different torque, rpm, and heat characteristics. My novak motors seemed to have more torque compared to others and I usually ended a tooth or two above similar turn motors. I don't have firsthand experience with the SP motors, but reading peoples findings online they seemed to have more rpm and so using the same gearing form a novak motor would produce more heat. If the motor is running too hot (Over 180 F) then gear down a couple teeth.

Also, do you have a hotwire to allow programming via the computer? If the motor is still running too hot you are able to adjust the timing to bring temps in check that way as well.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:11 PM
  #3697  
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Originally Posted by radwerx
Please pardon my ignorance but I'm quite new to brushless tech. I have recently got my RS Pro and I must say its really quite an engineering feat to behold.

As I managed to get a new Speed Passion Comp V1.0 4.5 turn for a steal this was what I ran on my new RS Pro. My FDR is around 8.9 on a touring car. However, I noticed that the Speed Passion motor ran quite a bit hotter than my old Novak 4.5R on a GTB with the same FDR on the same car.

My question is whether different motors of the same turn no. will have very different running temps and whether the ESC used plays a part in this.

Thanks a lot and congrats on an excellent product.
If you didn't already do it, install a fan on the chassis to blow against the posts and install a bigger cap or two original caps. Or the cap will explode and your electronics will get cooked.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wolfman864
thanks for the link I'll give it a shot. The update feature directly from the hotwire program said differently.
When you are in the hotwire program, attached to your speedo... you then have to update your ESC so it matches... like a firmware. There is a button on the far right that says something like "update ESC" or something... it takes about a minute, and there is 4 steps. Then it will say 198 instead of 180 as the "current version".
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:49 PM
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So any news on the 198 1s issue, fixed or still in the works?
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:07 PM
  #3700  
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got it fixed!!! I zeroed out the firmware on the ESC and downloaded the new patch and everything is good now!!!
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:55 PM
  #3701  
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I've got the repaired verison of 198 in my hand. Testing to be completed shortly...
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
I've got the repaired verison of 198 in my hand. Testing to be completed shortly...
That's like waiving a tri-tip in front of a dog then walking away. Just wrong....
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:59 PM
  #3703  
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Originally Posted by 2wdrive
If you didn't already do it, install a fan on the chassis to blow against the posts and install a bigger cap or two original caps. Or the cap will explode and your electronics will get cooked.
Hi. It is absolutely necessary to solder in another cap? The ESC is only showing about 3 leds worth of temp. Its the motor that's running hotter. Please advise. Btw I'm running 2S Lipo (4000mAh and 20C)
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:05 AM
  #3704  
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Originally Posted by Krio
The same turn motors from different manufacturers basically without fail have different torque, rpm, and heat characteristics. My novak motors seemed to have more torque compared to others and I usually ended a tooth or two above similar turn motors. I don't have firsthand experience with the SP motors, but reading peoples findings online they seemed to have more rpm and so using the same gearing form a novak motor would produce more heat. If the motor is running too hot (Over 180 F) then gear down a couple teeth.

Also, do you have a hotwire to allow programming via the computer? If the motor is still running too hot you are able to adjust the timing to bring temps in check that way as well.
Nope I haven't got the Hotwire interface as my budget didn't allow me to get that together with my esc. That will come eventually though, just now at this point of time. So in your opinion I should gear the system down even more? 'Cos I'm now running a 107T spur and 25T pinion which I feel is rather miniscule already. Haha. Its rather hard to find even smaller pinions.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:27 AM
  #3705  
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Originally Posted by radwerx
Nope I haven't got the Hotwire interface as my budget didn't allow me to get that together with my esc. That will come eventually though, just now at this point of time. So in your opinion I should gear the system down even more? 'Cos I'm now running a 107T spur and 25T pinion which I feel is rather miniscule already. Haha. Its rather hard to find even smaller pinions.
If you feel you already have some top end you aren't using on the track, then yes I would try to gear down. But my main point is the motor may be running hotter, but still within the acceptable limits. Temp guns are more valuable in electric rc than most imagine.
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