capnkids

Thanks for the out drive part number. I will purchase those when wear on the originals dictates that it is time.

I too have been partially tapping the threads just enought to get things started straight.

buckeye dan

iTrader: (11)

I just bought the hardned hex drivers from dynamite .I hope that will help striping out the heads.

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

It will, I used that same one, but I also tapped the holes a little bit, so that I wouldn't bite new plastic till it was almost all the way in.

capnkids

Excellent tools will help a lot.
Partial tapping of the threads will save your hands, your driver tip, and your blood pressure.

Building shocks today. Any must know tricks or tips? These are the aluminum body shocks.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Hey everyone,

I just picked up some parts and was playing with different changes. I installed the FR Narrow A-Arm block in the front of the rear arms and left the 30 degree rear/rear block installed. and it have me about 4 degrees of toe in on one side and only about 3 on the other.

Anyone else run into this with the narrow a-arm blocks?

cygnusx1

My S is officially a roller today! All the electronics are on board for a mock up. I am now searching the forum for neat wiring ideas. The front of the ball link from the servo, appears pretty close to the upper chassis plate. Did anyone have an interference problem there?

6376vette

Depending on the servo it may hit the top deck. you can try turning the servo mounts around, grinding the top deck a little, or mount the servo with servo tape.

capnkids

I am at the same prt of my build. I am short one of the pink flat head screw washers. Darn! I can't believe I do not have the correct shim in my box, but I will have to wait for tomorrow to get the correct washer.

I am mounting a Savox servo and a Kimbrough servo saver. It will hit the upper deck. I will play with it tomorrow. May just grind the deck. We will see.

Does anyone have a good way of marking shock springs to tell spring weights? Paint them?

FauxMako

The numbers are on there but they are very small. I color coded mine with paint and then put a drop of the same color paint on the sheet from the spring box.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

I found the original clear "bladder" seals at the top of the shock leaked after building them. To fix this I replaced them with Tamiya ones (part number #53576), and also replaced the o-rings with Tamiya red ones (part number SP5970.
If you cant source those parts then you might be able to stop them leaking by applying a little grease to the seals before you put them in place. This technique is also used when building the gear diffs to help stop them from leaking.

With the servo mounts are they the rectangular plastic ones, or the alloy ones that are offset to one side?

Cheers
Rob.

capnkids

Thanks for the tips. I think painting the shock springs is the way to go.

Pulled out the tamiya bladders and o rings from spares box. Great timing. They made the build.

The servo mounts I am using are the pink alloy hop ups. So they are triangular shaped. Any ideas are welcome. I don't see an obvious fix that does not involve new counter sunk holes or grinding on the top deck some more.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Yeah i had to redrill the chassis to make the alloy servo mounts work too

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

The pink alloy hop up posts moves the servo closer to the center of the car, to get around this apart from drilling new holes or grinding the top deck, the use of square generic servo posts will help as they will move the servo out from the center of the chassis - see pic below.



Cheers
Rob.

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

Would these be the same size as the stock Zero shocks?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TAMIYA-84318...item43b76dff38

cygnusx1

OK I test drove the car. In the living room though. I built it totally box stock, with a Savox servo, Traxxas TQi Rx, Titan 12T and XL5 ESC. I thought the steering link would hit the upper deck, but it clears by a few thousandths of an inch. The Titan 12T 550 motor seems to have a ton of torque, and made drifting the floor tiles a cake walk. When I get it outside with traction, I will check the gearing/temps. Yup, the stock shocks are already a bit oily up top. So far the diffs seem dry.

I also took the stock white wheels and dumped them in some near boiling water, with vinegar, and RIT Black dye for about 3 minutes. They turned out an amazing semi-gloss dark black. It looks awesome with the black wheels. My weight with 5000 Lipo and no body, comes in at 1385g.

I wish I could post a photo or a link....let me try uploading pics.