Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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I have brake issues with 7.5 in my 1/12 (3.7v LiPo), 17.5 SC (7.4v LiPo). I know others running 7.5 1/12 (3.7v LiPo) as well as one running 1/12 17.5 (4 cell NiMh) and all of us noticing a massive reduction in braking power.
5.5 or a 6.5
I have two tekin redline mod motors and I don't know which is which.. stickers have been removed so i can put a LRP heat sink on..
How can I test to see which is which.. Is there a way to test it with a volt meter.. or do I need a motor dyno? They both have the same size rotor in them so I have no idea which is which.. there must be some way i can tell which is which without running the motors on the track. neither motor has the lazer engraving on it (1st kind of redline).
Don't usually run mod so the motors have been forgotten about.. was it the 5.5 on the left or right???
Cheers
How can I test to see which is which.. Is there a way to test it with a volt meter.. or do I need a motor dyno? They both have the same size rotor in them so I have no idea which is which.. there must be some way i can tell which is which without running the motors on the track. neither motor has the lazer engraving on it (1st kind of redline).
Don't usually run mod so the motors have been forgotten about.. was it the 5.5 on the left or right???
Cheers
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I find it very odd, but this time it went just fine. I just tried new model in my transmitter. Considering that it's supposed to calibrate speedo to transmitter At least it's not required to send for repair or troublesome calibration of transmitter.
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
This esc is dialed. Period.
Ok guys, I have a serious question. I ran a T3 and I ran it with a 7.4 FDR and it had alot of roll when I let off the throttle to where i would overshoot the turn, and my best lap was 11.9 sec.
Then I was told to use a 9.8 FDR and the car would dump (like using drag brake) tremendously, but was so hard to drive and my best lap was 12.0.
My question is what would be the correct FDR?
Then I was told to use a 9.8 FDR and the car would dump (like using drag brake) tremendously, but was so hard to drive and my best lap was 12.0.
My question is what would be the correct FDR?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Posts: 3,301
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Ok guys, I have a serious question. I ran a T3 and I ran it with a 7.4 FDR and it had alot of roll when I let off the throttle to where i would overshoot the turn, and my best lap was 11.9 sec.
Then I was told to use a 9.8 FDR and the car would dump (like using drag brake) tremendously, but was so hard to drive and my best lap was 12.0.
My question is what would be the correct FDR?
Then I was told to use a 9.8 FDR and the car would dump (like using drag brake) tremendously, but was so hard to drive and my best lap was 12.0.
My question is what would be the correct FDR?
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Today I learned how to collaborate my esc. I had a couple of problems hopefully someone can help me with. First, after getting my speedo to recognize my radio it worked, however, when I changed out to a different battery I had to re-collaborate because it was no longer recognizing. My second problem was after I got on the track and would punch the throttle, there was a delay of about a second. Can someone let me know the best setting I should set my radio to when collaborating? Your help is much appreciated, thank you.
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
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I was thinking you were running 17.5. The taller pinions run on 17.5 brushless take away any mechanical drag brake, causing the coasting you are seeing. Add some drag brake, just a little at a time until you find a setting that works best for you.
Tech Adept
Today I learned how to collaborate my esc. I had a couple of problems hopefully someone can help me with. First, after getting my speedo to recognize my radio it worked, however, when I changed out to a different battery I had to re-collaborate because it was no longer recognizing. My second problem was after I got on the track and would punch the throttle, there was a delay of about a second. Can someone let me know the best setting I should set my radio to when collaborating? Your help is much appreciated, thank you.
Put all the TH profiles on 100% than calibrate the speedo.
Put the Neutral with on 10 after calibrating.
Throttle min on 15 as you run a TC.
Well when calibrating the esc is looking for the throttle, brake and neutral input. When the brakes or throttle are set too low the esc can't find the input anymore and the calibration doesn't continue with that part. I gues the esc looks for specific signal or something that is different with lower brake settings. Anyway.......it works
btw i used the atushi hara's setup for our World GT class during this weekends European Pancar Series and i can recomend it. We use 2s lipo and 17.5t in our indoor World GT class overhere.
I lowerd the start rpm to 3000 something and kept the rest the same and did use a higher rollout. To me it feels smoother and more consistend during the 8 minutes races then to max everything out with a very low rollout. Temperatures were also a lot lower with no fading. (i tried maxing out everything during earlier practice rounds). Motor temperatures when using Atushi's setup with just a little lower start rpm was around 65 C after 8 minute finals.
One other driver max everything out as well and he sure was one of the fastest cars on the track but i did see some fading during the race and the motor temps were also higher. He is one of the better drivers in PRO10 and WORLDGT overhere and he won this weekends EPS in the World GT class during a long fight with another equally good driver with a mamba max pro who came on 2nd place. It is still the driver behind the wheel that decides who wins (he would have had a good chance to end up high with a non dynamic esc ).
I qualified 3rd overall and it seemed to go great. During practice rounds just before the final i ran 45 laps in 8 minutes so was in the zone of the number 1 and 2 but i could not get my head straight in the finals and with some material that broke down during the race it didn't help either to get my brain cool. Overall i took 4th place out of 10. Quite happy with that considering that the finals didn't go all to well.
I lowerd the start rpm to 3000 something and kept the rest the same and did use a higher rollout. To me it feels smoother and more consistend during the 8 minutes races then to max everything out with a very low rollout. Temperatures were also a lot lower with no fading. (i tried maxing out everything during earlier practice rounds). Motor temperatures when using Atushi's setup with just a little lower start rpm was around 65 C after 8 minute finals.
One other driver max everything out as well and he sure was one of the fastest cars on the track but i did see some fading during the race and the motor temps were also higher. He is one of the better drivers in PRO10 and WORLDGT overhere and he won this weekends EPS in the World GT class during a long fight with another equally good driver with a mamba max pro who came on 2nd place. It is still the driver behind the wheel that decides who wins (he would have had a good chance to end up high with a non dynamic esc ).
I qualified 3rd overall and it seemed to go great. During practice rounds just before the final i ran 45 laps in 8 minutes so was in the zone of the number 1 and 2 but i could not get my head straight in the finals and with some material that broke down during the race it didn't help either to get my brain cool. Overall i took 4th place out of 10. Quite happy with that considering that the finals didn't go all to well.
Alex, congratulations with a good race weekend.
You could reduce the drag by removing the wing you have, its skyhigh in comparison to the others
Greetz JW
You could reduce the drag by removing the wing you have, its skyhigh in comparison to the others
Greetz JW
haha! Now i know why i had understeer!
Thanks jw, congrats with the win in B main. Good job.
Thanks jw, congrats with the win in B main. Good job.
Last edited by 2wdrive; 01-17-2011 at 04:54 AM.