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Old 01-16-2011, 02:15 PM   #19231
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
What motor are you using that has no or little brakes?
I have brake issues with 7.5 in my 1/12 (3.7v LiPo), 17.5 SC (7.4v LiPo). I know others running 7.5 1/12 (3.7v LiPo) as well as one running 1/12 17.5 (4 cell NiMh) and all of us noticing a massive reduction in braking power.
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Old 01-16-2011, 03:13 PM   #19232
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Default 5.5 or a 6.5

I have two tekin redline mod motors and I don't know which is which.. stickers have been removed so i can put a LRP heat sink on..

How can I test to see which is which.. Is there a way to test it with a volt meter.. or do I need a motor dyno? They both have the same size rotor in them so I have no idea which is which.. there must be some way i can tell which is which without running the motors on the track. neither motor has the lazer engraving on it (1st kind of redline).

Don't usually run mod so the motors have been forgotten about.. was it the 5.5 on the left or right???

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Old 01-16-2011, 03:23 PM   #19233
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Did you put all your brake settings back to 100%? I had the same problem once and it happend that i didn't turn my brakes back to 100% on my transmitter. It was 40 or 50%. When i bumped it back to 100 the calabration went ok.
Thanks a lot
I find it very odd, but this time it went just fine. I just tried new model in my transmitter. Considering that it's supposed to calibrate speedo to transmitter At least it's not required to send for repair or troublesome calibration of transmitter.
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:21 PM   #19234
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This esc is dialed. Period.
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:09 PM   #19235
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Ok guys, I have a serious question. I ran a T3 and I ran it with a 7.4 FDR and it had alot of roll when I let off the throttle to where i would overshoot the turn, and my best lap was 11.9 sec.
Then I was told to use a 9.8 FDR and the car would dump (like using drag brake) tremendously, but was so hard to drive and my best lap was 12.0.
My question is what would be the correct FDR?
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:18 PM   #19236
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Ok guys, I have a serious question. I ran a T3 and I ran it with a 7.4 FDR and it had alot of roll when I let off the throttle to where i would overshoot the turn, and my best lap was 11.9 sec.
Then I was told to use a 9.8 FDR and the car would dump (like using drag brake) tremendously, but was so hard to drive and my best lap was 12.0.
My question is what would be the correct FDR?
Go back to the 7.4 FDR and add some drag brake. What motor are you running, and what settings are on your ESC?
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:42 PM   #19237
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Go back to the 7.4 FDR and add some drag brake. What motor are you running, and what settings are on your ESC?
vector x-12 17.5
end rpm 20000
start rpm 3149
timing boost (55)max
turbo boost 18
delay .2
ramp 2.
neutral width 15
throttle profile 5
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:42 PM   #19238
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Today I learned how to collaborate my esc. I had a couple of problems hopefully someone can help me with. First, after getting my speedo to recognize my radio it worked, however, when I changed out to a different battery I had to re-collaborate because it was no longer recognizing. My second problem was after I got on the track and would punch the throttle, there was a delay of about a second. Can someone let me know the best setting I should set my radio to when collaborating? Your help is much appreciated, thank you.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:04 PM   #19239
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Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
vector x-12 17.5
end rpm 20000
start rpm 3149
timing boost (55)max
turbo boost 18
delay .2
ramp 2.
neutral width 15
throttle profile 5
I was thinking you were running 17.5. The taller pinions run on 17.5 brushless take away any mechanical drag brake, causing the coasting you are seeing. Add some drag brake, just a little at a time until you find a setting that works best for you.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:06 PM   #19240
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Originally Posted by johnny55 View Post
Today I learned how to collaborate my esc. I had a couple of problems hopefully someone can help me with. First, after getting my speedo to recognize my radio it worked, however, when I changed out to a different battery I had to re-collaborate because it was no longer recognizing. My second problem was after I got on the track and would punch the throttle, there was a delay of about a second. Can someone let me know the best setting I should set my radio to when collaborating? Your help is much appreciated, thank you.
Did you set your radio right?
Put all the TH profiles on 100% than calibrate the speedo.

Put the Neutral with on 10 after calibrating.
Throttle min on 15 as you run a TC.
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:23 AM   #19241
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Thanks a lot
I find it very odd, but this time it went just fine. I just tried new model in my transmitter. Considering that it's supposed to calibrate speedo to transmitter At least it's not required to send for repair or troublesome calibration of transmitter.
Well when calibrating the esc is looking for the throttle, brake and neutral input. When the brakes or throttle are set too low the esc can't find the input anymore and the calibration doesn't continue with that part. I gues the esc looks for specific signal or something that is different with lower brake settings. Anyway.......it works
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:05 AM   #19242
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btw i used the atushi hara's setup for our World GT class during this weekends European Pancar Series and i can recomend it. We use 2s lipo and 17.5t in our indoor World GT class overhere.

I lowerd the start rpm to 3000 something and kept the rest the same and did use a higher rollout. To me it feels smoother and more consistend during the 8 minutes races then to max everything out with a very low rollout. Temperatures were also a lot lower with no fading. (i tried maxing out everything during earlier practice rounds). Motor temperatures when using Atushi's setup with just a little lower start rpm was around 65 C after 8 minute finals.

One other driver max everything out as well and he sure was one of the fastest cars on the track but i did see some fading during the race and the motor temps were also higher. He is one of the better drivers in PRO10 and WORLDGT overhere and he won this weekends EPS in the World GT class during a long fight with another equally good driver with a mamba max pro who came on 2nd place. It is still the driver behind the wheel that decides who wins (he would have had a good chance to end up high with a non dynamic esc ).

I qualified 3rd overall and it seemed to go great. During practice rounds just before the final i ran 45 laps in 8 minutes so was in the zone of the number 1 and 2 but i could not get my head straight in the finals and with some material that broke down during the race it didn't help either to get my brain cool. Overall i took 4th place out of 10. Quite happy with that considering that the finals didn't go all to well.
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:41 AM   #19243
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Alex, congratulations with a good race weekend.

You could reduce the drag by removing the wing you have, its skyhigh in comparison to the others

Greetz JW
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:36 AM   #19244
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haha! Now i know why i had understeer!

Thanks jw, congrats with the win in B main. Good job.

Last edited by 2wdrive; 01-17-2011 at 05:54 AM.
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:46 PM   #19245
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Originally Posted by kakaroctt View Post
whats going to happen if i soldered an orca power boost directly to the motor phase?is it going to improve the performance?got to change any setting?or will it harm the rs pro?
any info?
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