Tamiya TB-Evolution IV
#2686
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Well for guys running the TCS at the worlds for GT-1, as well as at our nationals, were using 23T Super Stock Tamiya Motors, and they were gearing them at around 5.8. Also....... we race 23T Tamiya Motors in our F1 class with our fixed High Speed Gear Set at 5.88 and the cars work great.
#2688
How come a 27t is geared up to 7??? Tot it should be lower compared to a 23t???
#2689
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Honestly Windtalkers, I don't know why these people would be using ratios as high as seven, just bonkers in my eyes.
For Asian Runners (23 Turn Stock Motors) - gear somewhere around 5.8 should be ideal
For other ROAR-spec Stock Motors (27 Turn Stock Motors) - gear between around 6.0 on a largish track and as high as 7.0 on an extremely tight track.
You may find that you need to move outside those figures sometimes because some tracks can be extremely massive or extremely tight. Personally, we race at a track in Australia not too disimiliar to Tamiya Raceway in USA with a long straight and a twisty bit in the middle. I run my Evo IV with around 6.4 gearing and the car's great. Sometimes people will go as low as 5.7-9 but for the Evo, I found that around 6.3-5 seemed to work the best. Try it out and see the how the times and consistency over the run are effected.
For Asian Runners (23 Turn Stock Motors) - gear somewhere around 5.8 should be ideal
For other ROAR-spec Stock Motors (27 Turn Stock Motors) - gear between around 6.0 on a largish track and as high as 7.0 on an extremely tight track.
You may find that you need to move outside those figures sometimes because some tracks can be extremely massive or extremely tight. Personally, we race at a track in Australia not too disimiliar to Tamiya Raceway in USA with a long straight and a twisty bit in the middle. I run my Evo IV with around 6.4 gearing and the car's great. Sometimes people will go as low as 5.7-9 but for the Evo, I found that around 6.3-5 seemed to work the best. Try it out and see the how the times and consistency over the run are effected.
#2690
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Honestly Windtalkers, I don't know why these people would be using ratios as high as seven, just bonkers in my eyes.
Honestly Windtalkers, I don't know why these people would be using ratios as high as seven, just bonkers in my eyes.
If I were to gear any lower, the motor would melt!!
#2691
Well... sometimes it also because of the weather.... if it's in cold countries, we can gear it lower while in the hot weather countries, it would be the opposite....
#2692
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
With all this talk about gearing what are you guys running with 19t for GT1, I'll only ever run a 19T for one race and one practice session so I need a starting point. The track is med. sized and layout should be tight. Its RCO in Hanover if anybody races there. Currently I'm running a 100t spur. is 100/37 gonna be too much?
#2693
Originally posted by Hebiki
the three tracks i race at do not have very long straights and they are meant for 1/10th scale cars...
tamiya USA - 110ft straight w/sweeper
la mirada - 130ft straight w/sweeper
socal raceway - 80-110ft depending on layout.
there are monster size tracks here like revelation built for 1/8th gas cars.. but 27T electric isnt raced there.
the three tracks i race at do not have very long straights and they are meant for 1/10th scale cars...
tamiya USA - 110ft straight w/sweeper
la mirada - 130ft straight w/sweeper
socal raceway - 80-110ft depending on layout.
there are monster size tracks here like revelation built for 1/8th gas cars.. but 27T electric isnt raced there.
If so this size is just above average here. There are some smaller tracks also but a monster track is something completely different. If you want seeing a monster track in Europe search for Lostallo in Switzerland. Itīs made for 1/8 and 1/5 gas cars and really monster for electrics.
#2694
Any thoughts on the Evo 4 MS.
I wonder how it would look in red
I wonder how it would look in red
#2695
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Definately won't be in red.
Anyway guys, another topic of discussion. Has anybody tried using 48dp gears?? If so... what's the size constraint on those in teeth before it hits the carbon top deck. Unfortunately I don't have ANY 48dp gears so I can't even guess as to what I should get. I want to convert over to 48dp so that I can get more longevity out of my gears. The 64dp can break quite easily I've found and I just want the car to be a bit more reliable on THAT front.
Anyway guys, another topic of discussion. Has anybody tried using 48dp gears?? If so... what's the size constraint on those in teeth before it hits the carbon top deck. Unfortunately I don't have ANY 48dp gears so I can't even guess as to what I should get. I want to convert over to 48dp so that I can get more longevity out of my gears. The 64dp can break quite easily I've found and I just want the car to be a bit more reliable on THAT front.
#2696
Currently, I'm using 64p Kawada spurs and they last ok for me...
I also tried delrins (white in colour) made by xenon, these tend to wear faster.....
as for 48p... have yet to try it out.
I also tried delrins (white in colour) made by xenon, these tend to wear faster.....
as for 48p... have yet to try it out.
#2698
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Yeh, at the moment I'm using Xenons and they seem to chip fairly easily. Just wanna try out 48dp as I think it'll work well.
Yeh, at the moment I'm using Xenons and they seem to chip fairly easily. Just wanna try out 48dp as I think it'll work well.
#2699
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Depends on where you are in Australia really. At the top level, there are an extremely low level of Tamiya runners, like out of a class of 50, there may be around 6 or 7 runners. Something like that.
We had a recent race meet where Surikarn attended and everything, and I was the only Tamiya runner in the A's of either the Stock Class or the Mod class. I was doing Stock and my final time in Stock with my Evo IV. I managed to qualify 2nd and finish a disappointing 4th, but lets not get into that. Unfortunately, the reason why Tamiya is not supported well in Australia at the top level, is because there is no importer support (Toy Traders) or manufacturer Support from Tamiya. This is a great disappointment for many of us Tamiya runners. Most guys who are competing in the Stock and Mod classes here are running, XRays, RDXs, HPIs, Losi's and Schumachers. This is a massive downside to running Tamiya in Australia and most people who start their RC career wtih Tamiya, leave them because they get support from an importer of Corally or XRay, etc.
This is a sensitive subject with me as I really have a love affair with Tamiya. I think that they are great chassis with no holes barred to get the most precise construction and quality of components. I will run Tamiya as long as I can withstand the pressures of joining a team through an importer. I just wish that something could be done within Australia to get the numbers up in the top level of the game. There are some great Tamiya Runners here, such as the current Tamiya F1 World Champion, Bradd Vercoe. I just am dismayed by the lack of support. Hopefully someone will come to the rescue soon to bring Tamiya to the top of the Australia Racing Scene. I'm gonna do my best but its hard when you have to pay retail for everything :P
But anyway, going back to what you said, at the lower classes and at my club especially, it is mostly Tamiya there. Chassis like TA04s and around that price range is the go really and there's tonnes of runners there. Just very few top level drivers.
We had a recent race meet where Surikarn attended and everything, and I was the only Tamiya runner in the A's of either the Stock Class or the Mod class. I was doing Stock and my final time in Stock with my Evo IV. I managed to qualify 2nd and finish a disappointing 4th, but lets not get into that. Unfortunately, the reason why Tamiya is not supported well in Australia at the top level, is because there is no importer support (Toy Traders) or manufacturer Support from Tamiya. This is a great disappointment for many of us Tamiya runners. Most guys who are competing in the Stock and Mod classes here are running, XRays, RDXs, HPIs, Losi's and Schumachers. This is a massive downside to running Tamiya in Australia and most people who start their RC career wtih Tamiya, leave them because they get support from an importer of Corally or XRay, etc.
This is a sensitive subject with me as I really have a love affair with Tamiya. I think that they are great chassis with no holes barred to get the most precise construction and quality of components. I will run Tamiya as long as I can withstand the pressures of joining a team through an importer. I just wish that something could be done within Australia to get the numbers up in the top level of the game. There are some great Tamiya Runners here, such as the current Tamiya F1 World Champion, Bradd Vercoe. I just am dismayed by the lack of support. Hopefully someone will come to the rescue soon to bring Tamiya to the top of the Australia Racing Scene. I'm gonna do my best but its hard when you have to pay retail for everything :P
But anyway, going back to what you said, at the lower classes and at my club especially, it is mostly Tamiya there. Chassis like TA04s and around that price range is the go really and there's tonnes of runners there. Just very few top level drivers.
#2700
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Definately won't be in red.
Anyway guys, another topic of discussion. Has anybody tried using 48dp gears?? If so... what's the size constraint on those in teeth before it hits the carbon top deck. Unfortunately I don't have ANY 48dp gears so I can't even guess as to what I should get. I want to convert over to 48dp so that I can get more longevity out of my gears. The 64dp can break quite easily I've found and I just want the car to be a bit more reliable on THAT front.
Definately won't be in red.
Anyway guys, another topic of discussion. Has anybody tried using 48dp gears?? If so... what's the size constraint on those in teeth before it hits the carbon top deck. Unfortunately I don't have ANY 48dp gears so I can't even guess as to what I should get. I want to convert over to 48dp so that I can get more longevity out of my gears. The 64dp can break quite easily I've found and I just want the car to be a bit more reliable on THAT front.
F. alonso.. i used a 70T and a 72T 48P spur on my former evo. i think you go all the way up to 76T before you start hitting the chassis. i remember that was the limit for my former barracuda R3