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Old 03-17-2009, 09:22 PM
  #15676  
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Seriously $38 a piece? I guess i wont be waiting for them.
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:54 AM
  #15677  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
They are double cardan joint drive shafts (There are two joint points). so each joint point has less refractive angle that will kill the chatter problem w/spool.

Here is the part number and the price.

#67699 DCJ Drive Shaft Set (1pc)
Retail Price: $38.00

*This item is pre-assembled set with dog bone, center coupling, axle and pins.

Thanks,
CV in the auto industry has been a double joint since I started wrenching. Nice to CVDs are finally going to be real CV joints.
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Old 03-18-2009, 07:55 AM
  #15678  
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What are some other battery strap options besides using tape? Anyone make something, like a velcro strap?
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Old 03-18-2009, 12:55 PM
  #15679  
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
What are some other battery strap options besides using tape? Anyone make something, like a velcro strap?
You could use other options but really good strapping tape is the best. I use the black intertape and I use one piece for a full day of racing. Not all tape is created equally. I hear that the Hudy tape is really good too.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:11 PM
  #15680  
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Originally Posted by artwork
You could use other options but really good strapping tape is the best. I use the black intertape and I use one piece for a full day of racing. Not all tape is created equally. I hear that the Hudy tape is really good too.
I'm just looking for something more permanent and that doesn't peel off the sticker on my lipo.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:24 PM
  #15681  
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I have seen some folk fit the xray battery strap to there cyclone and it seems to work ok but i think you need to drill the chassis
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Old 03-19-2009, 03:24 AM
  #15682  
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I have used the posts and battery strap from a cyclone s, can be used for either style of battery packs,only need to drill 2 small holes for the mounting screws for the posts,cheers.
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:38 AM
  #15683  
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He Guys!!

I,ve got a good question. wich tyres are working the best on a medium grip
track? i like the LRP,s v-tecs 27R but they wear to fast!!
Also what is the best 4.5 turns brusheless motor?

Thanks allready!!
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:54 AM
  #15684  
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Originally Posted by louielou
its worth the wait! i had a Losi typeR; the steering, effiecency, and feel of the car was smooth. Bought the cyclone TC because i herd they were gona be coming out with the DCJ drive shaft, simillar to Losi; + i hate blades.
thats because you crashed too much and you keep breaking the blades!! lol , see yah at the track Lou
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:33 AM
  #15685  
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Default HELP!!! chassis balancing

I have the cyclone TC and I NEED help balancing the chassis. The equipment I have installed is as follows;

1. Pulse 13.5
2. LRP Comp. Sphere TC
3. 9451 futaba servo
4. Standard Airtronics receiver
5. Thunder power 40c 5000mah lipo
6. amb personal transponder

where do I need to add weights and how much?
pictures would aso be great
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:43 AM
  #15686  
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Originally Posted by trickd122
I have the cyclone TC and I NEED help balancing the chassis. The equipment I have installed is as follows;

1. Pulse 13.5
2. LRP Comp. Sphere TC
3. 9451 futaba servo
4. Standard Airtronics receiver
5. Thunder power 40c 5000mah lipo
6. amb personal transponder

where do I need to add weights and how much?
pictures would aso be great
Try the IRS balance buttons. #IRS3020 - they make chassis balancing much easier.

IRS Buttons at StormerHobbies
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:31 AM
  #15687  
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Originally Posted by trickd122
I have the cyclone TC and I NEED help balancing the chassis. The equipment I have installed is as follows;

1. Pulse 13.5
2. LRP Comp. Sphere TC
3. 9451 futaba servo
4. Standard Airtronics receiver
5. Thunder power 40c 5000mah lipo
6. amb personal transponder

where do I need to add weights and how much?
pictures would aso be great
I'm running pretty much the same equipment in mine. Only a different 13.5 motor and a KO Receiver. I like the TP 40C, because it's only 23.5mm high, so you just have to grind a bit off the top deck mount.

I have filled the battery slots with about 5oz of weight and I run the TP 40C pack flush with the right hand edge to get even balance... it's within 5 grams of being right on, and about 10g over the 1525 limit (I'll do the same with my next chassis, but do some alum/titanium upgrades to get down to the '09 1500 ROAR limit).
Filling in the slots was the tricky bit:
- tape up the bottom of the chassis with battery tape nice and tight
- used about 2oz of tungsten power, mixed with 30 minute epoxy (produces about the same density as lead)
- in each battery slot I embedded a tungsten plate in the epoxy mixture (solid plates are 1.5 times the density of lead)
- let dry over night, and pull off tape

Here's where to get the stuff:
6-plate pack - http://maximum-velocity.com/tungstenplates.htm
tungsten power - http://maximum-velocity.com/tungstenpowder.htm

The nice part of this solution is that your weight is super low. I've been running that for 3 months on all kinds of carpet tracks, with great success.
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:47 AM
  #15688  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Try the IRS balance buttons. #IRS3020 - they make chassis balancing much easier.

IRS Buttons at StormerHobbies
I agree they make life much easier
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:48 AM
  #15689  
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Hara in TITC used this
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-ri-28000.jpg  
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:13 AM
  #15690  
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET
Hara in TITC used this
That's why Hara is so FAST. Little metal body braces!
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