cygnusx1

We just built a Sakura S with a Mamba Max Pro setup in it. Playing around with it today I think we were hitting near 80-90mph. Mine (10.5T with 120A BHR ESC) does 65 and this Mamba Sakura was passing me like I was stalled. I paid no particular attention to alignment other than making the links the exact measurments as the build instructions. We are both running fairly large foam tires with 7mm thick hexes. All fluids are box stock.

TeamThibault

how many of you guys have done every upgrade on this chassis? is the cf better chassis then the stock chassis for carpet?

thanks

sonspit

mmp with what motor/battery and gears?

Yogi-

I run carpet with foams. The stiffer the better and heavy-springs.
21.5 blinky
4.25 springs up front 4.5 back
Very little droop maybe 2mm at most
4.5 and 5 mm ride hight
2mm toe out
1mm kick-up at front
Alloy bulk heads and stiff top deck
Putty in front diff shock oil in the rear
37 front and 35 rear matrix carpet foams.
I've been looking at the stiff bottom deck.

cygnusx1

Stock pulleys, 30T pinion, and it's the Mamba kit 4-pole 5700kv. Running a 3S lipo.

EricW

iTrader: (1)

What are some of the common parts to have on hand for this car? Going to do some on road racing in an RCGT class and I'm not looking to spend $400+ for a touring car at this point.

cygnusx1

Start from the outside and work in. Hub axle carriers, C-hubs, control arms, shafts..camber link mounts on top of the bulkheads. Basically anything that can get hit in a crash. Of course belts and pulleys aren't a bad idea.

6376vette

A arms, steering knuckles, rear bearing carrier, front c hubs. these are the parts you are most likely to break. If the track has nasty walls get some spare front body posts.

6376vette

For racing on carpet the stock chassis is completely capable. I did a full upgrade to my cars just for fun not to keep up. I got all of the aluminium first then went for the carbon fiber parts. The carbon chassis is a really nice upgrade but not necessary to be competitive. if you get one get the narrow chassis. I have tried both and the narrow chassis seems to handle a little better

EricW

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info guys.

Sakuraszero

Hey guys I'm interested in drifting instead of buying another drift chassis just wondering is it possible to use the s zero for drifting and if so what I need to change in order to do this?

pmac

iTrader: (1)

to make this a drift chassis without going to overboard. you need a locked diff in the rear and preferably a one way in the front.

if you want to get into the CS stuff that is going on at the moment you need to change the centre pulleys to get more drive from the rear than the front. You will also need to increase the steering throw. There are some youtube clips on this for the sakura zero.

the pure drift chassis are very different in the motor and battery placement so there is a lot of customizing required if you want to do the lot and is probably cheaper in the end to get a drift chassis.

pmac

iTrader: (1)

i think the CF narrow chassis is a great chassis. it is just so much lighter than the FRP chassis. I think a total of 30 grams just in the chassis.

I found it to be more predictable in the flex characteristics as well so tuning became a bit easier.

I still believe the zero s has to be the best chassis for a beginner and i have slowly upgraded it to a full zero.

I'm looking forward to the sakura ultimate and XI sport to be released! they should both be pretty awesome.

sonspit

Sweet.
Any heat issues with the mmp or 5700

danny325is

iTrader: (1)

My zero finally has electronics in it and is painted.

First RC paint job in 20 years.