fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

no,your right....but the few times I did,I didn't have any problems...and that was on a long track.....I had enough yellow paint on the nuts to coat them...untill I got used to the track, I was hitting the boards at teh end of the 200 ft strait with the rear of the car..hard enough to snap the wing off the car,AND crack the rear wheel..(elligi)..the toe never changed..

I'm not saying its never been done,bit I don't think its a big problem...

in my travels,I talk to alot of hobbyists..I'm alsways asking what problems they have with the car....the toe links rarely come up,no lie...

but I will tell you this.....the Lunsford rear toe links are thicker than the std rear toe links...(thread diameter)..by aroung 4 thousanths....that may help in gettig more BITE into the RPM cup...so thye don't move..

he also said his links were popping of....BB,how many time shave yours popped off....I think to be compressing AND popping off the links,you gotta be hittin teh boards pretty hard..

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

Harry & others
I and maybe 15 others in S. Florida have the grey, or white ball cups on our cars. I've never popped a rear link.
The rear links on the NTC3 have held up. I just ordered 10 sets of the Lundsford SD from Kelly, and matching RPMs, from a dist, but none of my guys are having any problems. We have had more problems with the fuel getting into the front links and having them slipping off, in a minor tap.
TIP, make your exhaust hole in the body larger, to vary with your tire diameter

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

I rest my case.......

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

and I'll throw this little tidbit at you also....


most people have'nt even heard of the fix(BB's or Jims)...and they run they're Tc3's with no problem...

I was talking to a hobby shop owner in Ontario canada....

know what car they race up they're?.....and they've tried them all...you betcha..tc3...they've found them to be very durable...(yes,a big board track)...

bbntc3

I use captured ends with lunsford buckels and washers on the capture ends. Mine never come off now!. I will break a wheel hub or a shocktower and the captured ends are still connected. We lost about 3 A mains due to the ends poping off Harry. That's when I changed to the captured ends. No more issues! We had a big race here Sat and in the main I seen 3 ntc3 cars loose laps due to the stock ends popping off. I also seen 2 other NTC3 blow the diffs all to hell and they had the new gears in them. And it was not due to them not knowing how to build a car, like some people seem to think the trouble lies in.
But we have to remember we race mostly short track stuff here, diffs and ball ends may play a more important role on them compared to long tracks.

bbntc3

Harry: I have been around a long time! I learned years ago, too only believe half of what I see, and nothing I hear! Most talk is cheap! Our track just removed all inside boards and replaced them with the Road Dome rail system. Its great.. But when you fly over a rail you go air born! I saw the new mugens go air born at prob. 40mph fly ten ft. airborn roll smack the outer wall and keep going. Most all NTC3's that did this were taken off the track. I had to replace a shocktower once myself. NTC3 maybe be tough but not as solid as other cars out there.

alucard13

Where in S. FLA are you in? I'm in miami.

superk

iTrader: (8)

let me tell ya!! I have a serpetn pro and NTC3 here...I have both setup pritty good.. but..it seem like my Serpent is more rigid to the track condistion and abusing driver!! I bang up my serpent a few time and it still keep going and hold it setting really good.

Not that..NTC3 is not..but..alot of time ....if you hit it right...some thing will broke!! one thing for sure...I went though...like 4 gas tank already from getthing tap by other cars...that cost me a race!!! some one need to come up with some thing to protect that tank!! NO GAS NO GO NO GOOD!!!

thomasf

iTrader: (8)

K factory sells a left side brace. Very nice, protects the fuel tank.

Number 11

fastharry, I just had the same problem this weekend with my NTC3. I popped a toe link and it compressed and knocked my toe to +2 degrees. I finished the main but it was hard. This is the first time I had a problem with this car I have raced it in 8 races with no damage. I was looking through the post today for a toe link mod so this is perfect maybe someone could pass along some tips.

alucard13

what is a front one way diff? and does it come with the kit or do you have to buy it seperate as an upgrade?

sorry, still new to this

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

well,I agree with that........just a like a sports team...no team(or car) is as bad as everyone says.....and no team(or car) is asgood as they say..

I know the Associated plastic is not forgiving....The losi has the same problem...I was racing a xxx Kinwald all winter..one tap on the boards,say good-night to the upright..


so to say I haven't raced on boards,really isn't true....maybe I've only raced the tc3 a few times on a big board track,but I've been racing rally AND 2 wd buggy for 3 full winter seasons..I race all year long..indoors,outdoors,electric and nitro..I've learned practice makes the biggest difference in any car..and don't hit the boards in ANY of them..



If you could see how many Losi xxx4's(and buggys) and associated B4's broke at out last big meet,you'd be astounded..


You call either company,and they both say,to the letter,well,if you don't hit anything,you wont break...

thats nice in Barry Bakers or Brian Kinwalds world..but not the average racer.....


what really interests me is teh diff problem...... we do have twin layer fire hose,that is taped and nailed down,so it don't move..and that stuff is pretty hard on a car also(our track is 125 x 110 ft)..and we get up there in speed.....

not one of the cars(10 tc3's,ALL with RB turbos) had a diff problem last year...I've run 2 gallons of gas through my 5 port RB turbo,and only rebuilt the rear diff once...(with a couple cleanings in between)..and never rebuilt the front diff..just took it apart and re lubed and cleaned it...

last night I rebuilt both diffs with the white gears....bith were loose(they must have been that way for half a gallon last year)..

they both looked fine..

what went wrong with those 2 diffs?...

about the road rail..we were going to change to that also..but we figured the "launching" problem would be an issue...Does that mean there's a problem with the design?..



thanks for confirming that..

of course,if you call road rail, you KNOW what they'll say...


YOU"RE NOT SUPPOSED TO CRASH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



PS...just out of curiosity..if the car is so frail,and such a problem.why keep racing it?......there must be some good points to the car..and it must be fast,otherwise you'd have stop running it....Granted,it may not like to hit a wall at 40 mph after flying 10 ft through the air,but I can assure you that wasn't one of associateds design parameters...


Hey,BB..now don't wig out on me here...but you think you would have broken the shock tower if you had teh real fix in the car?..(Easy Killer,I'm just playin' with ya)..

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

lets hope Associated is reading those comments...


I encourage everyone to email them and tell them the problems you're having......

This doesn't all matter anyway..

we'll all be buying HPI R 40's next year anyway..

Vue Vang

Hi every one. Sorry to see that you guys are not very happy with the car. I personal love mine. Every car has it's own weakness. I agree that the plastics on the nitro tc3 is not as forgiving as those on the serpent car. But even the serpent car has it's weakness. The axle on the serpent breaks easily right at the point where the pin is inserted into the axle. This is because the axles are made of spring steel that don't flex, they just break. The plastic on the serpent is more forgiving because it flex. If you think the plastic on the tc3 is bad then the graphite parts are even more brittle. I personally don't think that you need the fix. All I do is readjust the screws that holds the shock tower after every run because they tend to loosen up. With the way the upper arm is mounted on the shock tower, crashes can loosen the screws. If you grab the upper arm is rock it back and forth you can work the shock tower loose. The car is a great car, I haven't broken any on the car yet. Maintaining the car is all part of racing. If you look at real race car they are even more unforgiving than rc cars.

dvargas

Rock on E-volo

I agree with you, i love my NTC3, i ordered a new Hardcore Racing Titanium upper deck and a new drive shaft ( i bent mine when i got radio interference.) But other than radio interference 2x since i have had it. i love it other than that. it handles brilliantly, and the speed is good for a single tranny. NTC3's rule