18LikesTRF414M, 404x, 414, 414X
08-06-2002, 01:46 AM
#1066
Two DAYS!!! DAMN that is better then perfect timing!!!
He got one for you too??!!!
He got one for you too??!!!
08-09-2002, 06:36 AM
#1067
Hi all,
Well, I checked Tamiya's website and there are new part release. Tamiya is now making Ti turnbuckles and Ti hex screws. Pretty sweet, but with the name of Tamiya on it, it's not gonna be cheap.
Well, I checked Tamiya's website and there are new part release. Tamiya is now making Ti turnbuckles and Ti hex screws. Pretty sweet, but with the name of Tamiya on it, it's not gonna be cheap.
08-11-2002, 12:17 AM
#1068
for 414m?...hmmm,...tat's sweet,...
08-11-2002, 10:24 AM
#1070
Tech Adept
Hop Up Options
Item 53523------------------------------M-Chassis Aluminum Racing Steering
Item 53525------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x18mm
Item 53526------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x23mm
Item 53527------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x32mm
Item 53528------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x35mm
Item 53529------------------------------3X8mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53530------------------------------3X10mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53531------------------------------3X12mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53532------------------------------3X14mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53533------------------------------3X16mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53534------------------------------3X8mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53535------------------------------3X10mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53536------------------------------3X12mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53537------------------------------3X14mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53538------------------------------3X16mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53523------------------------------M-Chassis Aluminum Racing Steering
Item 53525------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x18mm
Item 53526------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x23mm
Item 53527------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x32mm
Item 53528------------------------------Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts 3x35mm
Item 53529------------------------------3X8mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53530------------------------------3X10mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53531------------------------------3X12mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53532------------------------------3X14mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53533------------------------------3X16mm Titanium Hex Socket Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53534------------------------------3X8mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53535------------------------------3X10mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53536------------------------------3X12mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53537------------------------------3X14mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
Item 53538------------------------------3X16mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.)
08-11-2002, 10:38 AM
#1071
Hey guys the world Japan edition is out and its selling for around 42,500 to 49,000 yen. Stores have tons of them.................
08-11-2002, 11:33 AM
#1072
Usagi,
I found few Japanese hobby shop that sells online, and they do have the price around the range that you said. But they were all sold out, far before the release of the car. A lot of them are pre-ordered.
There are only 1700 kits in the world for the 414M world replica.
I just wish i'm living in Japan.........
I found few Japanese hobby shop that sells online, and they do have the price around the range that you said. But they were all sold out, far before the release of the car. A lot of them are pre-ordered.
There are only 1700 kits in the world for the 414M world replica.
I just wish i'm living in Japan.........
08-11-2002, 09:12 PM
#1073
Soldout! NOWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Their packed in fact! They are just sitting in the shops. 1700 well I have heard that one before.............. But all the main shops in tokyo have them in numbers.............
I knoiw some of the shops that will sell online. But problem is they will charge more at the end.
I knoiw some of the shops that will sell online. But problem is they will charge more at the end.
08-12-2002, 12:39 AM
#1074
Hobbynet might be able to get you guys some kits.
08-14-2002, 11:43 AM
#1075
The TB Evo1/2 chassis is VERY different from the 414M/2. The weight distribution is very rear-biased in the TB chassis. I like to try and shift the weight as far forward as I can on this car to get more steering and get the handling more neutral. If not, what tends to happen is that I end up fighting the weight shift too much when I'm dialing in the suspension. I either have to compromise entry speed or mid/exit grip.
On a loose track, I would replace the front one-way with a ball diff first of all. Then I would try yellows in the front with 50wt and reds in the rear with 40wt. Get your camber back to around 1-2 degrees in the rear and raise your roll center with 2-3mm spacers under the rear blocks and inner/upper links. I would also use a 414M 2-dot rear block to give you more rear toe-in and maybe run 1 degree of front toe-in at the MOST. Run a higher ride height to compensate for the bumps and a higher roll center to adjust for the higher cg. Use soft springs to soak up the bumps but higher roll center to maintain roll stiffness and corner speed. Run long wheelbase.
Keep in mind that these are just my suggestions. I've been working on my friend's Evo 2 and I still haven't gotten it to where I want it. I feel that it has to do with the weight distribution. I cannot get it to be as smooth as the 414M thus far. Also take VERY good care of your diffs and universals (grease). Because of the angle of the rear universals, they greatly affect exit steering if they are not smooth and well lubed.
Hope this helps.
On a loose track, I would replace the front one-way with a ball diff first of all. Then I would try yellows in the front with 50wt and reds in the rear with 40wt. Get your camber back to around 1-2 degrees in the rear and raise your roll center with 2-3mm spacers under the rear blocks and inner/upper links. I would also use a 414M 2-dot rear block to give you more rear toe-in and maybe run 1 degree of front toe-in at the MOST. Run a higher ride height to compensate for the bumps and a higher roll center to adjust for the higher cg. Use soft springs to soak up the bumps but higher roll center to maintain roll stiffness and corner speed. Run long wheelbase.
Keep in mind that these are just my suggestions. I've been working on my friend's Evo 2 and I still haven't gotten it to where I want it. I feel that it has to do with the weight distribution. I cannot get it to be as smooth as the 414M thus far. Also take VERY good care of your diffs and universals (grease). Because of the angle of the rear universals, they greatly affect exit steering if they are not smooth and well lubed.
Hope this helps.
Originally posted by Aluma
hi everyone
I'm a fellow tamiya"r"....i got an evo 2 and since the 414 is basically the same, i thought y'all could help.
I'm having trouble setting my car up for my local track....I tried the setup that comes with my car, but its way too loose.
I race on a short, 60X90ft ,Bumpy as heck, old ,rutted racetrack which is blown and sprayed.... do any of you have a good setup for the 414 that would work on that kind of a track?
i raced last weekend and had to run -6deg rearcamber with red springs on 40wt oil with -1deg frontcamber with white springs on 50wt oil to minimize the rear end screaching and snapping around. I use HPI 27R tires and soft inserts.(these seem to do the trick to stick) I've tried TAKEOFF 32R's but my car seems like its ice skating...even the TAMIYA type A's slide ALL over the place.
any help will be appreciated... would adding spacers to the front of the rear arm carrier help with the bumps? do i remove spacers from the front arm carrier? TOE in the rear with optional hubs? toe in the front?
hi everyone
I'm a fellow tamiya"r"....i got an evo 2 and since the 414 is basically the same, i thought y'all could help.I'm having trouble setting my car up for my local track....I tried the setup that comes with my car, but its way too loose.
I race on a short, 60X90ft ,Bumpy as heck, old ,rutted racetrack which is blown and sprayed.... do any of you have a good setup for the 414 that would work on that kind of a track?
i raced last weekend and had to run -6deg rearcamber with red springs on 40wt oil with -1deg frontcamber with white springs on 50wt oil to minimize the rear end screaching and snapping around. I use HPI 27R tires and soft inserts.(these seem to do the trick to stick) I've tried TAKEOFF 32R's but my car seems like its ice skating...even the TAMIYA type A's slide ALL over the place.
any help will be appreciated... would adding spacers to the front of the rear arm carrier help with the bumps? do i remove spacers from the front arm carrier? TOE in the rear with optional hubs? toe in the front?
08-15-2002, 06:16 AM
#1077
Originally posted by Geetoo
Just got my TRF world replica kit a few minutes ago. The box itself looks sensational and the price is quite a killer. $500. Took a shot of the box. Take a glimpse.
Just got my TRF world replica kit a few minutes ago. The box itself looks sensational and the price is quite a killer. $500. Took a shot of the box. Take a glimpse.
Did you get that kit from your friend who was in HK for two days?? or did you buy it online?? is it 500 dollar shipped??? Man, that car looks really nice~! So what number did you get out of 1700???
500 is just too much for me~.... Damn... now i'm TRF-Powerless~... lol
08-15-2002, 08:55 AM
#1078
OMG 500.00! thats nuts! God those guys are stealing money from us!
08-15-2002, 08:54 PM
#1080
In Hong kong TRF replica would cost around HK$3,600 and hardly you can find one now. I was told that reservations comes from everywhere in different countries and luckily my local dealer has three and now a goner. I will check what number I got. Btw, the price seems unreasonable but I think its worth having one.