Team Losi JRXS Type-R
#7411
So i am confused about this whole droop business. So in the back of the manual in the build set up it says droop is 1mm above right height in the front. Do i do A or B?
a) Measure ride height, then max height with wheels still on the ground and the difference is droop. To decrease droop i actually tighten the downstop to remove down travel
OR
b) Taking the handy droop guage that comes with the kit and measuring 1mm using the chasis and set screw boss as reference, and make sure screw boss just clears the 1mm mark. I decrease droop here by loosening the downstop and adding down travel.
If it matters, i am suspecting the A is my answer. thanks alot.
a) Measure ride height, then max height with wheels still on the ground and the difference is droop. To decrease droop i actually tighten the downstop to remove down travel
OR
b) Taking the handy droop guage that comes with the kit and measuring 1mm using the chasis and set screw boss as reference, and make sure screw boss just clears the 1mm mark. I decrease droop here by loosening the downstop and adding down travel.
If it matters, i am suspecting the A is my answer. thanks alot.
#7412
Suspended
Unofficial Launch of Social RC!
Being a Losi guy I had to post the first real announcement here! The team at Social RC (www.socialrc.com) has been working incredibly hard to build an innovative online community for RC Car Racing. Our goal is to two fold: First, to elevate the profile of RC Racing worldwide by giving racers, manufacturers and track operators what they have persistently been asking for - effective tools to network, stay in touch, swap stories/tips and learn about the latest trends and events in RC Racing Web 2.0 fashion! Second, to have EVERY racer become a part of the Social RC community, one track at a time (no easy task!)
While the site is still in beta mode, I wanted the Losi guys to take a first peak and let us know your preliminary thoughts and feedback. All feedback can be posted to the site. We have partnered with the manufacturers and track operators and plan on spreading the word to the masses next week! Racers ready, marshals ready!
Social RC Admin
www.socialrc.com
While the site is still in beta mode, I wanted the Losi guys to take a first peak and let us know your preliminary thoughts and feedback. All feedback can be posted to the site. We have partnered with the manufacturers and track operators and plan on spreading the word to the masses next week! Racers ready, marshals ready!
Social RC Admin
www.socialrc.com
#7414
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
I'm talking about the inner pivot block. The part that is actually hitting the endbell of the motor stopping it from moving further. I took as much material off of it as I could without sacrificing structural integrity. The only problem with mine is if I want to run HIGH rear roll center, I'll have to dremel down another block just for that. Both Larry and myself have done the same thing to continue to use Losi spur gears on the car. Keep in mind, this is only good for 13.5 and 10.5. If you plan on running 17.5, you'll definitely need the PRS adapter to slam a ton of gear on it.
thanks
#7415
I would say camber gain is more towards the end of a fine tune adjustment. On asphalt, the car has more of a numb feel courtesy of rubber tires. Adding camber doesn't always help and can sometimes hurt the handling on rubber tires. On foam, it's a completely different story. For quick notes sake... raising the ball stud on the rear hub or front caster block increases camber gain. From testing, a .030 adjustment in height can yield as much as 1* of gain throughout suspension travel.
As far as the adjustments I made to your car at the Bowl... that track isn't exactly smooth like Blue Diamond. Your car almost had NO droop so the car didn't have the ability of transferring weight front to rear in an efficient manor. After adjusting that, the car should've been more controllable between off and on power cornering. On asphalt... try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
As far as the adjustments I made to your car at the Bowl... that track isn't exactly smooth like Blue Diamond. Your car almost had NO droop so the car didn't have the ability of transferring weight front to rear in an efficient manor. After adjusting that, the car should've been more controllable between off and on power cornering. On asphalt... try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
Do you have any suggestions for tuning w/ sway bars? Also is there somewhere i can go dig up some of this info or is it all in your head? I hate to keep bugging you w/ questions .
#7416
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Installed the camber links, and also took the time to install the sway bars (it's the next one down from the thickest one) front and rear. Between the two changes WHAT a difference. I've also adjusted droop to 2mm over ride height front and rear. It was stuck towards the beginning of the session, but the track got dusty and slick and i had to be really careful w/ the throttle to get the car not to dump over coming out of the corner. I'm not sure if it was the car or the track but there was a rooster tail of dust behind the car when i was going through the corners.
Do you have any suggestions for tuning w/ sway bars? Also is there somewhere i can go dig up some of this info or is it all in your head? I hate to keep bugging you w/ questions .
Do you have any suggestions for tuning w/ sway bars? Also is there somewhere i can go dig up some of this info or is it all in your head? I hate to keep bugging you w/ questions .
#7419
#7422
You have to measure both sides of the chassis and the collars should be equal. You are inducing tweak with them drastically off like that, You should even the collars out then when you try to get ride height on one side, move both at the same time but do a little at a time. Another thing you may want to check is the length of the shock to make sure they are equal length left to right fully extended. I just went through this last weekend and it made a world of difference.
#7423
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
You have to measure both sides of the chassis and the collars should be equal. You are inducing tweak with them drastically off like that, You should even the collars out then when you try to get ride height on one side, move both at the same time but do a little at a time. Another thing you may want to check is the length of the shock to make sure they are equal length left to right fully extended. I just went through this last weekend and it made a world of difference.
thanks for the help
Last edited by nitrobeast; 06-22-2008 at 02:35 PM.