Team Losi JRXS Type-R
#7396
I use a 48/114 but i'm a touch under geared for my track, i've attached a spreadsheet that gives you the ratio w/ the 2 different pulley combo's (same sized pulleys). Others at my track use 54/108 but i can't control my throttle finger enough to keep motor temps down.
But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
#7397
At the 2 tracks I've run 10.5 at, I haven't gone higher than 118/49. Otherwise it gets too hot and bad things happen.
#7398
Standard - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9947
Short - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9949
#7399
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
You should be able to make it fit, but have to do a little dremel work on the left rear arm mount. I can fit a 118/54 on my car with a Losi or Novak motor. The SP/Feiago based motors have a longer endbell that stops me at a 52 tooth. All you do is dremel the arm mount down little by little to get the motor to slide back. If dremeling the arm mount isn't your cup of tea, then the PRS adapter with a smaller spur is the way to go.
At the 2 tracks I've run 10.5 at, I haven't gone higher than 118/49. Otherwise it gets too hot and bad things happen.
At the 2 tracks I've run 10.5 at, I haven't gone higher than 118/49. Otherwise it gets too hot and bad things happen.
Thanks for the help. I was at Jackson with you a couple weeks back. I was the new guy talking to you and Todd about the losi. I went with the same setup as you guys. Are you talking about the inner pivot block or the actuall motor mount? Mine seems to hit the pivot block. If you are talking about the motor mount, do you mean where the screws go onto the motor?
Thanks for the help...
#7400
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
I use a 48/114 but i'm a touch under geared for my track, i've attached a spreadsheet that gives you the ratio w/ the 2 different pulley combo's (same sized pulleys). Others at my track use 54/108 but i can't control my throttle finger enough to keep motor temps down.
But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
#7401
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
I use a 48/114 but i'm a touch under geared for my track, i've attached a spreadsheet that gives you the ratio w/ the 2 different pulley combo's (same sized pulleys). Others at my track use 54/108 but i can't control my throttle finger enough to keep motor temps down.
But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
#7402
No i adjusted the throw to make sure the servo isn't straining at the end of it's travel separately from dual rate, I made that adjustment w/ dual rate at 100%. By dual rate i mean the adjustment on your radio that maps the amount of front wheel travel to the amount of throw on your radio's wheel or stick (dam that was hard to verbalize!!) hopefully i'm not making it more confusing.
Either way your radio has a dual rate adjustment, back it down until you just can't make it around the corners at full lock then go up by 5 to 10%.
This information is not my own btw, i was doing it all wrong until last weekend a more experienced racer (a main all the dam time, the bastard) pointed out that my wheels were turning too much in the corner and that was part of my motor temp problem i had been complaining about.
#7403
The standard camber link is pretty straight forward. You just need another camber link for the front using the same turnbuckles/ball cups that are used on every other part of the car. As far as the ball studs, we usually work with a standard ballstud or a shortneck. The difference in height between the 2 is .030. That might now sound like much, but it changes camber gain on the Type R quite a bit. More often than not anymore, we're running a shortneck on in the caster block.
Standard - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9947
Short - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9949
Standard - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9947
Short - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9949
I have the xxx-main tc setup book and i've been re-reading it over the last couple of weeks and trying to relate the scenarios in the book to the type-r and i'm having some issues as to where to start making adjustments for major issues and where to make adjustments for fine tuning.
For instance the small changes you made to ride height/droop when we were at the bowl it made a world of difference to the behavior center corner out!
#7404
Jason,
Thanks for the help. I was at Jackson with you a couple weeks back. I was the new guy talking to you and Todd about the losi. I went with the same setup as you guys. Are you talking about the inner pivot block or the actuall motor mount? Mine seems to hit the pivot block. If you are talking about the motor mount, do you mean where the screws go onto the motor?
Thanks for the help...
Thanks for the help. I was at Jackson with you a couple weeks back. I was the new guy talking to you and Todd about the losi. I went with the same setup as you guys. Are you talking about the inner pivot block or the actuall motor mount? Mine seems to hit the pivot block. If you are talking about the motor mount, do you mean where the screws go onto the motor?
Thanks for the help...
#7405
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
I'm talking about the inner pivot block. The part that is actually hitting the endbell of the motor stopping it from moving further. I took as much material off of it as I could without sacrificing structural integrity. The only problem with mine is if I want to run HIGH rear roll center, I'll have to dremel down another block just for that. Both Larry and myself have done the same thing to continue to use Losi spur gears on the car. Keep in mind, this is only good for 13.5 and 10.5. If you plan on running 17.5, you'll definitely need the PRS adapter to slam a ton of gear on it.
Got it!!! Thanks...I noticed it was hitting it. I figured there had to be something i was doing wrong. I guess the dremel will work...thanks
#7406
Thanks Schreff, I have the standard ones in my pit box, i'll give those a shot at the blue diamond today. I've been reading quite a bit about camber gain, what should i look for that would clue me in as to when i need more or less camber gain on the front or rear of the type-r?
I have the xxx-main tc setup book and i've been re-reading it over the last couple of weeks and trying to relate the scenarios in the book to the type-r and i'm having some issues as to where to start making adjustments for major issues and where to make adjustments for fine tuning.
For instance the small changes you made to ride height/droop when we were at the bowl it made a world of difference to the behavior center corner out!
I have the xxx-main tc setup book and i've been re-reading it over the last couple of weeks and trying to relate the scenarios in the book to the type-r and i'm having some issues as to where to start making adjustments for major issues and where to make adjustments for fine tuning.
For instance the small changes you made to ride height/droop when we were at the bowl it made a world of difference to the behavior center corner out!
As far as the adjustments I made to your car at the Bowl... that track isn't exactly smooth like Blue Diamond. Your car almost had NO droop so the car didn't have the ability of transferring weight front to rear in an efficient manor. After adjusting that, the car should've been more controllable between off and on power cornering. On asphalt... try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
#7408
Measure your ride height, lift the car while keeping the tires firmly planted on the board and re-measure your height. This is droop over ride height. It's the gap between your chassis fully weighted at rest vs. max down travel of the suspension.
#7409
I would say camber gain is more towards the end of a fine tune adjustment. On asphalt, the car has more of a numb feel courtesy of rubber tires. Adding camber doesn't always help and can sometimes hurt the handling on rubber tires. On foam, it's a completely different story. For quick notes sake... raising the ball stud on the rear hub or front caster block increases camber gain. From testing, a .030 adjustment in height can yield as much as 1* of gain throughout suspension travel.
As far as the adjustments I made to your car at the Bowl... that track isn't exactly smooth like Blue Diamond. Your car almost had NO droop so the car didn't have the ability of transferring weight front to rear in an efficient manor. After adjusting that, the car should've been more controllable between off and on power cornering. On asphalt... try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
As far as the adjustments I made to your car at the Bowl... that track isn't exactly smooth like Blue Diamond. Your car almost had NO droop so the car didn't have the ability of transferring weight front to rear in an efficient manor. After adjusting that, the car should've been more controllable between off and on power cornering. On asphalt... try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
#7410
Tech Rookie
So i am confused about this whole droop business. So in the back of the manual in the build set up it says droop is 1mm above right height in the front. Do i do A or B?
a) Measure ride height, then max height with wheels still on the ground and the difference is droop. To decrease droop i actually tighten the downstop to remove down travel
OR
b) Taking the handy droop guage that comes with the kit and measuring 1mm using the chasis and set screw boss as reference, and make sure screw boss just clears the 1mm mark. I decrease droop here by loosening the downstop and adding down travel.
If it matters, i am suspecting the A is my answer. thanks alot.
a) Measure ride height, then max height with wheels still on the ground and the difference is droop. To decrease droop i actually tighten the downstop to remove down travel
OR
b) Taking the handy droop guage that comes with the kit and measuring 1mm using the chasis and set screw boss as reference, and make sure screw boss just clears the 1mm mark. I decrease droop here by loosening the downstop and adding down travel.
If it matters, i am suspecting the A is my answer. thanks alot.