80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
10-08-2014, 09:09 AM
I'm not a fan of the exotek quality, its sloppy and needs mods for the plastic chassis
10-08-2014, 09:49 AM
That's weird. I've been very happy with everything I've ever gotten from Exotek.
10-08-2014, 10:53 AM
I just installed the Exotek RF hanger as I busted the plastic one on the v2 first time out. Yes for this part you do need to make it work on plastic chassis but at least its an available solution...
10-08-2014, 01:53 PM
The adjustable ones. I have been testing these since Aug in a few of my cars.
There were available at Tower at the end of Aug. as a few local drivers in my area were able to order them up. I gave them the part number when they saw it on my car during a practice session.
They are a lot stronger than the plastic ones and use the numbered inserts similar to the DEX410 to change the front kick up or anti squat settings. If the inserts get worn out or damaged, its easily replaced. Depending on the adjustment number you use, you can use either the LRC or HRC blocks in the rear. You still need to remove the rear LRC or HRC block to change the inserts but at least you don't need to remove the entire front rear block. Which makes adjustments at the track much quicker. Keep in mind you will also need those hinge pin pivot balls that go into those plastic inserts to make them work.
I don't have the instructions in front of me to tell you what settings are what. But its definitely not the same as the stock settings.
Stock gives you 3, 1.5 and 0 with HRC. -2mm LRC adds 0.2 to each setting
The new part allows for different ranges. You won't get 3, 1.5 and 0, but rather 2+, 2, 1.8, 0.5 or something like that.
I can chime in on the exact settings later when I get home. Or unless someone has it handy with him.
There were available at Tower at the end of Aug. as a few local drivers in my area were able to order them up. I gave them the part number when they saw it on my car during a practice session.
They are a lot stronger than the plastic ones and use the numbered inserts similar to the DEX410 to change the front kick up or anti squat settings. If the inserts get worn out or damaged, its easily replaced. Depending on the adjustment number you use, you can use either the LRC or HRC blocks in the rear. You still need to remove the rear LRC or HRC block to change the inserts but at least you don't need to remove the entire front rear block. Which makes adjustments at the track much quicker. Keep in mind you will also need those hinge pin pivot balls that go into those plastic inserts to make them work.
I don't have the instructions in front of me to tell you what settings are what. But its definitely not the same as the stock settings.
Stock gives you 3, 1.5 and 0 with HRC. -2mm LRC adds 0.2 to each setting
The new part allows for different ranges. You won't get 3, 1.5 and 0, but rather 2+, 2, 1.8, 0.5 or something like that.
I can chime in on the exact settings later when I get home. Or unless someone has it handy with him.
10-08-2014, 02:46 PM
Anybody know ?
10-08-2014, 03:05 PM
Thanks Dino for that, really like the ability to change inserts never had a issues with the durability in my 410 with them.
Exotek one looks OK I run there hubs etc. Just wondering what you had to make work for the plastic chassis ? I run the Type B Dimec20 chassis, are the holes not right on the exotek ?
Exotek one looks OK I run there hubs etc. Just wondering what you had to make work for the plastic chassis ? I run the Type B Dimec20 chassis, are the holes not right on the exotek ?
10-08-2014, 03:56 PM
edit: there are pictures of mods you need to make for the exotek on on the product page http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-r...ith-shims-lrc/
Last edited by tobamiester; 10-08-2014 at 05:57 PM.
10-08-2014, 05:29 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (63)
I'm having a bad binding issue with the gear box on the V2 version . Seems like when i tighten up the screws on the top not bottom of the gearbox it binds up the top shaft when it's against the motor plate ? It's the right size screws and I'm not over tighting them .
The bearing that goes into the support mounting piece that snaps onto the gear box is not flush it won't though when i stick the top shaft spacer in .
The bearing that goes into the support mounting piece that snaps onto the gear box is not flush it won't though when i stick the top shaft spacer in .
10-08-2014, 07:43 PM
I figured it out now no binding . I do have a question on the 3 gear mid gear do you build it as a rear motor with the bigger idler gear in the middle ? and just flip the gearbox to the left side on the chassis like the 4 gear mid motor in the Manuel shows ?
The Manuel only shows the Rear motor and 4 gear mid motor gearbox setup .
The Manuel only shows the Rear motor and 4 gear mid motor gearbox setup .
Last edited by tc5 man; 10-08-2014 at 08:04 PM.
10-08-2014, 07:44 PM
I just shaved down the little tabs on the spacers to fit. For droop, definitely shave the arm, not the chassis, it makes the droop stops too flexy
10-08-2014, 08:04 PM
What did you do? I am having the same problem with binding in the gearbox.
10-08-2014, 08:12 PM
I sanded the edges down a little on the side in the inside of the gearbox . Than the support piece that snaps onto the gearbox with the bearing inside got flush now . And i push in the medal rods into the gearbox more .
Make sure you get the idler gear rod were the slipper goes onto all the way in to the small bearing in the gearbox .
And don't over tighten the screws into the gearbox just snug .
10-08-2014, 08:45 PM
I figured it out now no binding . I do have a question on the 3 gear mid gear do you build it as a rear motor with the bigger idler gear in the middle ? and just flip the gearbox to the left side on the chassis like the 4 gear mid motor in the Manuel shows ?
The Manuel only shows the Rear motor and 4 gear mid motor gearbox setup .
The Manuel only shows the Rear motor and 4 gear mid motor gearbox setup .
For a detailed reference, refer to the v1 manual http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...n%20Manual.pdf
10-09-2014, 08:10 AM
For MM3 the layshaft bearing is mounted in the opposite side of the gearbox, compared to the MM4 layout. The layshaft and motor plate are also mounted on the other side.
For a detailed reference, refer to the v1 manual http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...n%20Manual.pdf
For a detailed reference, refer to the v1 manual http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...n%20Manual.pdf
Oh ok thanks . I'm going to try out the 4 gear mid motor first since im going to run on high traction clay/carpet .
10-09-2014, 08:11 AM
What spare parts should i get for this buggy im thinking spur gears, front and rear arms ?
Also turning the gearbox around to the driver side with the 4 gear mid motor would i need to set the throttle to reverse direction on the radio or just normal ? Or it doesn't matter .
I'm going to run a 10.5 track star motor sensored .
Also turning the gearbox around to the driver side with the 4 gear mid motor would i need to set the throttle to reverse direction on the radio or just normal ? Or it doesn't matter .
I'm going to run a 10.5 track star motor sensored .
Last edited by tc5 man; 10-09-2014 at 08:31 AM.