HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
07-23-2005, 10:48 PM
#8161
Originally Posted by JLock
Thank you AMGracer. I am not against a lighter car; I am just not fixated on it. Getting the right gearing, clutch hit, two speed shift, right height, tire combo, and proper setup for the track conditions should be just as important as shaving grams off your car. You can make your car ROAR minimum legal weight but it won't do you good if all the other factors aren't also considered.
Ive been shaving grams ever since I turned 14....its like I cant stop. I try to goto sleep, then next thing I know im hocking the TV just to score some lw parts in the middle of the night.
I need help, my lw addiction is taking over my life.
07-23-2005, 10:53 PM
#8162
Originally Posted by JLock
Artificial-I,
The only reason I mention this is that JAG racing is a local guy that I have raced against many time. Until recently, I have out-qualified and out-raced him at many of the big track venues that we have raced. He has qualified me only twice at those same venues and it wasn't because of him trying to lighten his car. In fact, I out-qualified him at a local series race with my "pig" of a R40 to his "lightened" R40. It is just funny how many racers will go gray-haired, bald, or get ulsers worrying so much about lightening the car instead of working on their driving skills. For many that I see post on this thread, I don't see many posts about how it helped them improve on lap times, number of laps turned, going from the low mains to high mains, or going from the middle of the pack to winning on a regular basis. I am not meaning anything negative by my earlier post, just wanted to let some that are so concentrated on lightening the car to see that there is more to getting the car to perform than just lightening this or that. Just a side note, in Oct 2003, I qualified for the A-main at the HPI Worlds in Vegas with the same "heavy" R40 that I still race today. The only difference is that I am using a better motor than I did then, went to 50k/30k oils in the front/rear diff and sealed them, and change gear ratios to fit the track that I am running on (paid more attention to this). Oh, and I worked on improving my driving skills as much as I can.
The only reason I mention this is that JAG racing is a local guy that I have raced against many time. Until recently, I have out-qualified and out-raced him at many of the big track venues that we have raced. He has qualified me only twice at those same venues and it wasn't because of him trying to lighten his car. In fact, I out-qualified him at a local series race with my "pig" of a R40 to his "lightened" R40. It is just funny how many racers will go gray-haired, bald, or get ulsers worrying so much about lightening the car instead of working on their driving skills. For many that I see post on this thread, I don't see many posts about how it helped them improve on lap times, number of laps turned, going from the low mains to high mains, or going from the middle of the pack to winning on a regular basis. I am not meaning anything negative by my earlier post, just wanted to let some that are so concentrated on lightening the car to see that there is more to getting the car to perform than just lightening this or that. Just a side note, in Oct 2003, I qualified for the A-main at the HPI Worlds in Vegas with the same "heavy" R40 that I still race today. The only difference is that I am using a better motor than I did then, went to 50k/30k oils in the front/rear diff and sealed them, and change gear ratios to fit the track that I am running on (paid more attention to this). Oh, and I worked on improving my driving skills as much as I can.
Yeah I cant really speak for jag and his racing skills. But I dont think because hes not winning , doesnt mean LW parts in general are bad...lol.
Also I can understand the 2 year racing thing. Im also in my first year of racing. But ive been around the hobby a long time. Allthough im winning for my class for my summer series, lol. I wouldnt expect someone that new to perform well anyways.
How long have you been racing btw?
07-23-2005, 11:04 PM
#8163
Originally Posted by Greenbox
Yesterday i ran my car for a run... While through my 2nd tank i noticed that my car started to act a bit awkward. not to mention it wasnt kicking into 2nd gear. My car still ran fine and handling stayed basically the same it just turned differently thatn before. I run it till the fuel is gone and get ready for the 3rd tank.... I turned the chassi upside down and to my surprise scratches ALOT OF scratches and these were deeep ones too. The screw on the chassi even go the tops turned from black to silver. 
aww porr chassi. I figured out that while running a screw holding up one of the rear shocks came off. and i had only 3 shocks actually doing sumtin. Aside for the banged up chassi which has never been scratched this much even in longer runs. My rear tire (where the shock came loose) grinded hard against the hub carrier leaver a large deep circle in the rim of the wheel. I also did it to the othe rear wheel as well. Then i say uhoh more probs... i ve seemed to have torqued the two screws on the back of the chassi too much and bent the rear arm carriers. Thats or the missing shock caused it to bend outa shape. Then i open up the two speed to see what was wrong. The little plastic end where the spring pushes against has snapped so there goes my two speed shoes. Nothing else is wrong so far. Now i was thinking should i try the aluminum rear arm carriers
(or the things that hold the rear arm pins...) instead of the plastic ones? I wish my lhs was more supportive of the r40 i dont like driving a couple hours away for a measly 2 speed shoe....
"Oh we dont sell r40 parts cause its a racing breed..." quote the dude working there... they need a track
I was going to machine my own lw chassi and have sum fun with it. i was gonna make a few designs one made of cf one made of like a hybrid alum top half cf bottom half(who knows?) or i could try to find some higher quality aluminum than even the super chassi. I know one thing about the outcome....its not gonna be bright purple
aww porr chassi. I figured out that while running a screw holding up one of the rear shocks came off. and i had only 3 shocks actually doing sumtin. Aside for the banged up chassi which has never been scratched this much even in longer runs. My rear tire (where the shock came loose) grinded hard against the hub carrier leaver a large deep circle in the rim of the wheel. I also did it to the othe rear wheel as well. Then i say uhoh more probs... i ve seemed to have torqued the two screws on the back of the chassi too much and bent the rear arm carriers. Thats or the missing shock caused it to bend outa shape. Then i open up the two speed to see what was wrong. The little plastic end where the spring pushes against has snapped so there goes my two speed shoes. Nothing else is wrong so far. Now i was thinking should i try the aluminum rear arm carriers(or the things that hold the rear arm pins...) instead of the plastic ones? I wish my lhs was more supportive of the r40 i dont like driving a couple hours away for a measly 2 speed shoe....
"Oh we dont sell r40 parts cause its a racing breed..." quote the dude working there... they need a track
I was going to machine my own lw chassi and have sum fun with it. i was gonna make a few designs one made of cf one made of like a hybrid alum top half cf bottom half(who knows?) or i could try to find some higher quality aluminum than even the super chassi. I know one thing about the outcome....its not gonna be bright purple
Also I remember someone talking about how the gpm ti discs dont carry much ti, I didnt really care to comment then about ti....the thing to watch out for with ti.
Nearly all titanium metal used for production is an alloy. Like other pure metals, pure titanium requires the addition of other elements to achieve the structural properties that performance applications demand. The most common alloy in use (60% of all alloy production) is Ti 6-4, an alloy of 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. This common titanium alloy possesses a tensile strength of 135,000 psi.
Therefore nearly all ti we get is generally low in actual ti due to the need for extra strength.
07-24-2005, 03:15 AM
#8164
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Sounds like we have some local competition going on here,
Yeah I cant really speak for jag and his racing skills. But I dont think because hes not winning , doesnt mean LW parts in general are bad...lol.
Also I can understand the 2 year racing thing. Im also in my first year of racing. But ive been around the hobby a long time. Allthough im winning for my class for my summer series, lol. I wouldnt expect someone that new to perform well anyways.
How long have you been racing btw?
Yeah I cant really speak for jag and his racing skills. But I dont think because hes not winning , doesnt mean LW parts in general are bad...lol.
Also I can understand the 2 year racing thing. Im also in my first year of racing. But ive been around the hobby a long time. Allthough im winning for my class for my summer series, lol. I wouldnt expect someone that new to perform well anyways.
How long have you been racing btw?
07-24-2005, 03:25 AM
#8165
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Hey, what's 20 grams among friends, right? ....BTW, standard Rx pack weights in at +90 grams....
AMG - I just realized tonight that I purchased the wrong aluminum clutchbell
... anyone need an aluminum clutchbell for a 950 Serpent?? 
AMG - I just realized tonight that I purchased the wrong aluminum clutchbell
... anyone need an aluminum clutchbell for a 950 Serpent?? 
07-24-2005, 03:31 AM
#8166
Originally Posted by JLock
I have been racing since June of 1999, mostly on-road. Started racing electric (first with the TC3, old car isn't it) then moved to nitro about 6 months later (started with the silver chassis RS4). I have been concentrating on onroad for the last 2 years, getting the skills up. Now, I may start diversifying my racing portfolio back into electric onroad and electric/nitro offroad.
I run onroad gas, onroad touring, onroad 1/12th scale, offroad gas truck, offroad electric buggy. Each requires its own style and tuning.
Favourite class for pure racing is onroad gas.
Favourite class for FUN is gas truck.
07-24-2005, 04:24 AM
#8167
Yeah I went from nitro touring. To stopping the hobby alltogether. Luckily before I quit I bought an xxx ke and everything needed to run it and just let is sit for a few years.
Then a friend with a new mini-t came over and revived my rc passion. I then went in and assembled the buggy that week.
Then I became a crack whore and ran my electric buggy pretty much 2-3 times a week on the track and pretty much daily out in front of my house.
Those ke buggys are damn manueverable and can take turns like crazy in the street or dirt. But I was really digging starting off with a whole new deal. Electric and off-road , it was a lot more fun than I thought. Glad I tried it.
After smoking a few battery packs and going damn , that was 80 bucks in batteries in about 2 months. I said I need some nitro fuel for 20 bucks a gal and lets see how much runtime I get with my racer2. Then I bought the R40 and the rest is history, lol. Now I bother you guys daily with insane questions, lengthy replies and off the wall theories that probably dont work. LOL. (thought you might like that).
But I enjoy coming here everyday. I guess im new to the car and love it so much I cant help but talk about it all day. Im sure in 2003 when it came out you guys posted quite a bit. Well thats my story and im sticking to it, gosh its early.
Then a friend with a new mini-t came over and revived my rc passion. I then went in and assembled the buggy that week.
Then I became a crack whore and ran my electric buggy pretty much 2-3 times a week on the track and pretty much daily out in front of my house.
Those ke buggys are damn manueverable and can take turns like crazy in the street or dirt. But I was really digging starting off with a whole new deal. Electric and off-road , it was a lot more fun than I thought. Glad I tried it.
After smoking a few battery packs and going damn , that was 80 bucks in batteries in about 2 months. I said I need some nitro fuel for 20 bucks a gal and lets see how much runtime I get with my racer2. Then I bought the R40 and the rest is history, lol. Now I bother you guys daily with insane questions, lengthy replies and off the wall theories that probably dont work. LOL. (thought you might like that).
But I enjoy coming here everyday. I guess im new to the car and love it so much I cant help but talk about it all day. Im sure in 2003 when it came out you guys posted quite a bit. Well thats my story and im sticking to it, gosh its early.
Last edited by Artificial-I; 07-24-2005 at 04:37 AM.
07-24-2005, 04:32 AM
#8168
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah I went from a nitro touring. To stopping the hobby alltogether. Luckily before I quit I bought an xxx ke and everything needed to run it and just let is sit for a few years.
Then a friend with a new mini-t came over and revived my rc passion. I then went in and assembled the buggy that week.
Then I became a crack whore and ran my electric buggy pretty much 2-3 times a week on the track and pretty much daily out in front of my house.
Those ke buggys are damn manueverable and can take turns like crazy in the street or dirt. But I was really digging starting off with a whole new deal. Electric and off-road , it was a lot more fun than I thought. Glad I tried it.
After smoking a few battery packs and going damn , that was 80 bucks in batteries in about 2 months. I said I need some nitro fuel for 20 bucks a gal and lets see how much runtime I get with my racer2. Then I bought the R40 and the rest is history, lol. Now I bother you guys daily with insane questions, lengthy replies and off the wall theories that probably dont work. LOL. (thought you might like that).
But I enjoy coming here everyday. I guess im new to the car and love it so much I cant help but talk about it all day. Im sure in 2003 when it came out you guys posted quite a bit. Well thats my story and im sticking to it, gosh its early.
Then a friend with a new mini-t came over and revived my rc passion. I then went in and assembled the buggy that week.
Then I became a crack whore and ran my electric buggy pretty much 2-3 times a week on the track and pretty much daily out in front of my house.
Those ke buggys are damn manueverable and can take turns like crazy in the street or dirt. But I was really digging starting off with a whole new deal. Electric and off-road , it was a lot more fun than I thought. Glad I tried it.
After smoking a few battery packs and going damn , that was 80 bucks in batteries in about 2 months. I said I need some nitro fuel for 20 bucks a gal and lets see how much runtime I get with my racer2. Then I bought the R40 and the rest is history, lol. Now I bother you guys daily with insane questions, lengthy replies and off the wall theories that probably dont work. LOL. (thought you might like that).
But I enjoy coming here everyday. I guess im new to the car and love it so much I cant help but talk about it all day. Im sure in 2003 when it came out you guys posted quite a bit. Well thats my story and im sticking to it, gosh its early.
07-24-2005, 04:36 AM
#8169
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
The HPI factory team drivers have said not to use the CF rear hubs since the bearings bind badly in them. Mine did this. Are your bearings free in the hubs?
Afterwards always testing the resistance. I luckily got away with it. I was at the point with the one bearing thinking...damn if it doesnt roll right I probably wont be able to get the bearing out anyway. I was almost sure it was going to do it. But luckily it all went together.
Car also has "ZERO" slop. I also found some interesting stuff in the instructions on the steering that I somehow missed before. It basically removes this jiggle I couldnt figure out.
So Ill be sure to note what I missed on that one. But did still find one sloppy area on my new 2004 kit. So I went and fixed that and gosh it just made it so much more solid.
07-24-2005, 04:42 AM
#8170
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
LOL spoken like a true RC addict. I think its the nitro fumes.............
07-24-2005, 08:02 AM
#8171
Originally Posted by JLock
I owed you one from some comments you made on another board after our last race together. When I get this Murphy's Law guy off my back, I will pay you back some more the last of the SWCS races and possibly the JAG Racing Invitational, I mean T&T Fall Series as well. For everyone else, you don't owe me any type of report. As for you JAG, see you at a track very soon. 
What can I say ... some people come to this forum to share ideas and help fellow racers and OTHERS come to gossip and put people down..
Never said I was a great R/C driver anyway - but I am a good person
07-24-2005, 08:35 AM
#8172
As we're on an RC "TECH"nical forum we're a little more likely to discuss the specifics of the car, reducing the weight would be one area. Yeah we dont talk about driving techniques, but its not like we dont think long and hard about that. Anyway everyone has there secrets when it comes to actually driving there car. thats the way I see it anyhow.
I bet you would thrash me John! 
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Never said I was a great R/C driver anyway - but I am a good person
07-24-2005, 11:33 AM
#8173
Originally Posted by Hesky
As we're on an RC "TECH"nical forum we're a little more likely to discuss the specifics of the car, reducing the weight would be one area. Yeah we dont talk about driving techniques, but its not like we dont think long and hard about that. Anyway everyone has there secrets when it comes to actually driving there car. thats the way I see it anyhow.
I bet you would thrash me John!
I bet you would thrash me John!
I'll be at peak by the end of next year and that's good enough for me..... Now my 8 year old son is a different story.... lot's of potential if he decides to stick with it.....For me its about spending time with my son and making new friends along the way. .... and if I win a race here and there ...."icing"
In the meantime, MANY of you guys here are the reason I can get quicker, faster..... thanks for all of the "technical talk" and keep it coming; remember I only have one more year.
Last edited by JAG Racing; 07-24-2005 at 12:43 PM.
07-24-2005, 12:10 PM
#8174
Artificial-I,
One thing that I have learned running my R40, mine runs in like a heavier MTX-3. So, I have been experimenting with some of Mike Swauger's track settings and the HPI car adapts to them very well. One of my favorites is Swauger's Revalation's track setup from Nationals last year (I think I am referring to the right one
).
One thing that I have learned running my R40, mine runs in like a heavier MTX-3. So, I have been experimenting with some of Mike Swauger's track settings and the HPI car adapts to them very well. One of my favorites is Swauger's Revalation's track setup from Nationals last year (I think I am referring to the right one
).
Last edited by JLock; 07-24-2005 at 05:09 PM.
07-24-2005, 12:46 PM
#8175
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Alright, I admit it. Im a gram shaver.
Ive been shaving grams ever since I turned 14....its like I cant stop. I try to goto sleep, then next thing I know im hocking the TV just to score some lw parts in the middle of the night.
I need help, my lw addiction is taking over my life.
Ive been shaving grams ever since I turned 14....its like I cant stop. I try to goto sleep, then next thing I know im hocking the TV just to score some lw parts in the middle of the night.
I need help, my lw addiction is taking over my life.
AI - Don't panic... stay calm... we have professionals on the line to walk you through this lonely time in your life....
You'll first have to wait until I get off the line first..