niznai

I have about three of these gear diffs and have noticed a propensity of the really thin O-rings to stretch to the point that I can't bloody put the diff back with the O-ring. What is going on, Xray?! It happens in diffs that use Xray oil or other oils (not that there should be any difference). Does anyone else have this problem?

And is the O-ring really necessary? The diff has a paper gasket like all other diffs which I imagine should be enough (didn't notice any difference when I run a diff without the O-ring). What is the point of that stupid O-ring that doesn't even stay put?

I think I just found another area that needs a little bit of optimising, Xray.

klaymon

iTrader: (71)

I've never run an o-ring in any of the T4 cars I've owned and have never leaked a drop.

niznai

Thank you, I suspected as much.

mild seven

iTrader: (63)

I have built them without O ring with no problems. Otherwise you pretty much have to change the o ring with every rebuild.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

You've just discovered what most Xray users have known for several years. No O-ring is necessary. I would guess you don't follow the Xray threads? As this gets asked quite a bit in them.

I prefer to use a little green slime or equivalent on the paper gasket.

niznai

No, I don't really follow any particular threads, I confess. Nor does Xray it seems, since they haven't addressed the issue. So I feel I'm in good company.

Thank you for your input though.

Skiddins

The O-ring, when fitted correctly (which does involve some luck) works fine.

The problem is not that it swells etc, but that part of it gets 'dragged' out of position as the two halves are gently placed together.
Like many others (including the team drivers it would seem) I just use the paper gaskets which work fine provided they aren't damaged etc.

Also make sure you tighten the screws diagonally and slowly to make sure it is tightened up evenly.

Skiddins

niznai

Thanks, Skid. I have built these diffs (from new) a while ago and just wanted to change the oil in one of them, that's why I took it apart and found I couldn't get the stupid ring back. Took out the others to check on the swelling situation and turned out they were too swollen. I had another two 'rings lying around collecting dust (new spares) so I chucked them in, but I won't waste any more money on these pieces of merde anymore.

The way I check the diffs are tightened correctly is by spinning them on a bearing. If they spin out of true, something's amiss.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Niznai 1 - Odin 0

locked

iTrader: (1)

The o-ring isn't necessary, but I always use them anyway. They are a one time use sort of thing though. If you use them, use a new one every time you rebuild. I put it on the opposite side from what the instructions tell you. I find it stays put better that way while assembling.

F. Mendoza

iTrader: (79)

I had the same issue the first time I rebuilt a diff. A fellow XRay owner said "let me help you". When I gave him the ring he tossed it in the trash can. I rethought he was playing. He really tossed it. Never had any diff leaks since.

malcnz

I run a CSO and its a copy of the xray but better and you can get a whole bagful of orings...must be at least 10 in there for a few dollars and got them through RC Mushroom...but yeah the diffs dont leak without them anyway.

F. Mendoza

iTrader: (79)

Maybe that is why you get at least 10 of them for a few bucks. Nobody needs, uses, or want them. You say so yourself, "the diffs don't leak".

PS - copies are just that, copies.

malcnz

Just giving an alternative as I could imagine the xray ones are expensive.

I guess a new car is always going to be a copy of something else but you get so much more for way less money than an xray and after a year of running its still as tight as day one

P.I.M.P

iTrader: (14)

if you need to reuse after it has swelled cut a small section out and ca back together works fine